Free solo Ships Prow Tower?

Colorado 13er peak questions, condition requests and other info.
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Free solo Ships Prow Tower?

Postby krishcane » Sat Aug 31, 2013 10:51 am

Hi there,

I want to climb Ships Prow Tower, by the easiest route. I plan to hike up the Loft couloir (which I've done a few times before), turn right, approach the tower, and find the easiest ascent.

I'm trying to figure out whether I feel confident doing the actual tower without rope. I'm reading from various reports (eg. that the last bit is anywhere from 20 feet to 30 feet of somewhere between 5.0 and 5.4 climbing. Something I read mentioned a chimney? It sounded relatively unexposed.

I feel pretty confident going up something of that level if it's accurate, but I'd love to hear more from anyone that has done it, and whether you felt a rappel was really needed. If you did rappel, I assume there's no rap station up there - was there anything for a sling, or did you need a cam?

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Re: Free solo Ships Prow Tower?

Postby Kiefer » Sat Aug 31, 2013 6:42 pm

Ships Prow Tower? Do you mean Zumie's Thumb?
Hardly 5.easy
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Re: Free solo Ships Prow Tower?

Postby TomPierce » Sat Aug 31, 2013 7:25 pm

Hey Krish,
I was one of the climbers mentioned in that report, it was a fun day. We humped the usual light adventure rack with us, not knowing what to expect, and ended up completing a very easy alpine scramble with limited exposure. I think we'd already broken out the rope for the ascent, but can't recall if we actually plugged gear in; once the rope was out a rap just seemed faster than a more tedious down climb. As I recall there were blocks/horns to rap from, it wasn't a sketchy rappel. With 20/20 hindsight I'd now feel comfortable going ropeless, but of course I have no idea about your comfort level and we had perfect weather conditions. FWIW, I do recall that there were some loose blocks up there, SPT gets relatively little traffic for that area.

Hope that helps, have fun and be safe.

Posts: 27
Joined: Sun Aug 05, 2007 9:04 pm

Re: Free solo Ships Prow Tower?

Postby krishcane » Sun Sep 01, 2013 7:21 am

Tom, that's perfect. Thank you - sounds like a fun adventure. I'll bring climbing shoes but probably skip the rope as long as the weather is good.

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