(WINTER) HOLD ON! If you don't have much high-elevation, winter climbing experience, be careful in your planning and take a partner. Even the "easy" 14ers (Quandary, Sherman, Grays & Torreys) can be deadly in winter.
- Drive to the town of Gardner, northwest of Walsenburg on Colorado 69.
- From Gardner, head west for about 1/2 mile on CO 69 and turn west on the road to Mosca Pass.
- Just after the start of this road, a Forest Service sign states "Upper Huerfano - 21.5" and "Lily Lake Trhd - 22.5".
- After 7.0 miles the road turns to dirt.
- Continue 4.8 miles to a junction and stay left on Forest Road 580.
- Drive 3.4 miles and enter private property where a "Forest Access" sign reads "Upper Huerfano - 5.3 mi."
- Continue 0.5 mile and stay left at the entrance to the Singing River ranch. The road becomes rough, narrow, but still 2WD.
- Continue 0.9 mile and pass the entrance to the Aspen River ranch. The road becomes more difficult.
- Drive 3.4 miles to enter the San Isabel National Forest.
- Drive 0.8 mile and pass a small sign for the Huerfano and Zapata trails.
- Drive 1 more mile to the end of the road at the Lily Lake TH.
Taken from far to the north, Photo #1 and Photo #2 show Mt Lindsey's north face. First, follow Mt. Lindsey Route #1 to the 13,150-foot saddle between Iron Nipple and Mt. Lindsey - Photo #3. The north couloir is not visible from here. To reach it, you must drop east (Photo #4) into the basin between 13er "Huerfano Peak" and Mt. Lindsey. Here are two options to reach the couloir:
1) From the saddle, hike slightly left (north) before dropping right into the drainage (Photo #5) which runs east from the saddle between Iron Nipple and Mt. Lindsey. Follow the drainage for 3/4 of a mile to reach the base of the north couloir, near 12,300' (Photo #10).
2) For a higher traverse to the couloir, continue another 50+ yards southeast on the standard route, drop left (east) off the ridge (Photo #4) and zigzag down the slope to reach easier terrain near 12,800' (Photo #6). Continue east, at an elevation of 12,800' (Photo #7), for 1/2 mile to intersect the north couloir (Photo #9). This option saves you 500' of elevation loss but the traverse involves crossing several shallow gullies.
Photo #8 looks back on both options. Enter the couloir and begin climbing (Photo #11, Photo #12). Photo #13 and Photo #14 show the middle of the couloir. Near 13,800' (Photo #15), the couloir becomes steeper and you reach the final pitch (Photo #16). Pick your line and climb to the top of the couloir and summit (Photo #17). For the descent, the standard (#1) route is probably the best option.
With good snow coverage, the north couloir can provide nearly 1,900' of skiing. Remember, you'll have to ascend back to the 13,150-foot saddle on your way out.
IMPORTANT: This route enters the Sangre De Cristo Wilderness area. Wilderness areas have special regulations and restrictions for party size, dispersed camping, campfires, etc. Also, dog owners should read the wilderness information carefully because some wilderness areas prohibit dogs to be off-leash and/or limit how close dogs can be to lakes and streams. If you have questions about the Wilderness area, please contact a U.S. Forest Service office for the National Forest(s) listed above.