Photo
Mt. Evans
snow North Face Moderate
print
Difficulty:
 Class 3 
Snow Steepness: Moderate  
Ski/Board: Advanced, D8 / R3 / I  
Risk Factors:Exposure: Considerable
Rockfall Potential: Considerable  
Route-Finding: Low  
Commitment: Moderate  
 
Trailhead:Evans/Summit Lake
Start:12,850 feet
Summit:14,264 feet
Total Gain:1,500 feet
RT Length:2.00 miles
Author:BillMiddlebrook
Updated:3/2019
Weather:NOAA Forecast
Conditions:287 reports
Cell Signal:11 reports
Sheriff:Clear Creek: 303-679-2376
Forests:Arapaho, Pike
Wilderness:Mount Evans
Quad. Maps:Log In to View
Camping:On Google Maps
Eats:On Google Maps
Downloads:Log In to Download
Photo
Show More

Trailhead

Take Exit 240 at Idaho Springs on Interstate 70. Drive south on Colorado 103 for 13.5 miles to Echo Lake. Pay the entrance fee and drive 9 miles up the Mt. Evans road (Colorado 5) to the Summit Lake parking area.

Route

This is the best ski route on Evan's north face. Crampons are very helpful between 13,400' and the top of the snow below the summit ridge. 1 shows most of the route seen from the parking area near Summit Lake. In the photo you can see that you must ascend a bench that rises up in the east end of the Summit Lake bowl.

Walk out onto the Mt. Evans road, turn right, and follow the road. After a short distance, the road crosses the east drainage of Summit Lake. Leave the road on the right side and walk across grass and rocks until you reach the base of the slope. Your immediate goal is to ascend the slope up to the small bowl below the north face. Climb 470' of elevation and 1/3 mile up to the top of this slope at 13,300'. You now have an unobstructed view of the north face. The summit is up to your left, but this route climbs the snow in the easiest portion of the north face. 2 shows the view from here.

Take your time and pick your line up through the snow. I found it easiest (and safest) to start on the left side, and cross into the rocks near the center and then follow the rocks up through the center of the snow. Descend into the small bowl, pass the tiny lake, and begin your ascent up across boulders toward the left side of the snow field. From the tiny lake, you must climb approximately 780' of elevation to reach the summit ridge. Carefully climb up the snow as you aim for the top of the snow the ends below the lowest part of the ridge above. As you near 13,900', the snow field starts to narrow below the lowest portion of the ridge above - 4. Climb straight up to reach the top of the snow between 13,900' and the ridge (above 14,100').

Turn left and hike 0.13 miles along the summit ridge to reach the summit. 5 looks back along the ridge. If you're hiking, descend back to Summit Lake via the West Ridge, over 13er Mt. Spalding.

Skiing?

If you brought your skis, snap in near the top of the face. 3 looks down on the route from 14,000'. Repeat if necessary.

Notes

This route is best done with stable spring snow. Helmet, crampons and an axe are required. IMPORTANT: This route enters the Mount Evans Wilderness area. Wilderness areas have special regulations and restrictions for party size, dispersed camping, campfires, etc. Also, dog owners should read the wilderness information carefully because some wilderness areas prohibit dogs to be off-leash and/or limit how close dogs can be to lakes and streams. If you have questions about the wilderness area, please contact a U.S. Forest Service office for the National Forest(s) listed above.
#1 #2 #3 #4 #5
Topo
Big

The route Google Map can only be accessed by registered, 14ers.com users. If you don't have an account, you can register in the forum.

Log In

The route photo stash can only be accessed by registered, 14ers.com users. If you don't have an account, you can register in the forum.

Log In

Caution: The information contained in this route description may not be accurate and should not be the only resource used in preparation for your climb. Failure to have the necessary experience, physical conditioning, supplies or equipment can result in injury or death. 14ers.com and the author(s) of this route description provide no warranties, either express or implied, that the information provided is accurate or reliable. By using the information provided, you agree to indemnify and hold harmless 14ers.com and the route description author(s) with respect to any claims and demands against them, including any attorney fees and expenses. Please read the 14ers.com Safety and Disclaimer pages for more information.



© 2020 14ers.com®, 14ers Inc.