Peak(s):  Denali - 20,340 feet
Date Posted:  10/24/2010
Date Climbed:   05/08/2010
Author:  mtnmike

 Denali 2010 - West Buttress  

Denali2010-West Buttress

 Comments or Questions
Brian C

10/25/2010 01:21
Nice effort and most importantly a safe return. Loved the photo from your tent showing a sea of clouds. Nice post!


Thanks - Great Report & Pics
10/25/2010 01:45
I am hoping to climb Denali in 2011, and appreciate your detailed trip report. I also got HAPE while climbing Illimani in Bolivia last year after returning from the summit. I spent a sleepless night in a tent at 15k waiting for morning - scary stuff. I too was told by my Denver doctor that just b/c you get it once doesn't mean it will happen again.


Nice report
10/25/2010 01:59
Great writing and pics! Sorry to hear about your HAPE incident and happy to hear you got down safe & sound. You'll get the Big D next year!


Great Report
10/25/2010 02:51
Glad you made it down safe. It must have been disappointing after all the planning and effort involved. It looks like an awesome place.


good luck
10/25/2010 22:46
wish you the best of luck next year. great report. Kudos to the NPS, great job. glad you made it back.


Great Effort
10/27/2010 04:28
I'm glad you are ok. It was great that you knew what to look for to diagnose the HAPE. I hadn't experienced something as serious as HAPE so it was eye opening how quickly it came on and how debilitating it is.

I'm thinking about doing Denali perhaps next year and your very detailed trip report is great reading. Your itinerary seems pretty good - 3 nights at 11.5k and 4 nights at 14.2k before going to high camp. Did you feel an extra day or two might have helped or was it just bad luck? Did you feel like you were in tip-top shape before you left. Is there anything you plan to do differently in 2011? Do you live in Denver and hence some a base elevation of 5000+ ft or were you traveling thru?


Give it another try
10/31/2010 23:53
As a retired NPS Ranger who spent 20 years in Alaska, I spent time as a Medic at the 14,200' camp. As you said, most who are transported from that camp aren't in any condition to enjoy the trip out. Hope you give it another shot in 2011. Like you, I've climbed high and then, unexpectedly on another trip, got HACE at elevations I'd climbed before. Weird. Keep us all posted on your future plans and, buena suerte.


Great Adventure
12/28/2011 15:19
Sorry that your trip ended short with HAPE but sounded like you had an awesome adventure, and that is what is all about. I too have climbed with AAI and have high praise for them. I'm glad you had such a great partner that took this in stride, I can imagine that being a tough position for him. Good luck on your next ascent. I just got the ok from the wife to try Denail. Seriously considering it.


Great Report
07/23/2012 04:35
Incredible report - while I hope to one day make it up there it's but a pipe dream now. Glad to hear you made it down OK and I hope you made it back last year. Do you have any more info on the medic services? I'd love to know more about the medics up there. Thanks!

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