Peak(s):  Mt. Wilson  -  14,246 feet
El Diente Peak  -  14,159 feet
Date Posted:  09/10/2010
Date Climbed:   09/04/2010
Author:  slaggbottom
 North Buttress to El Diente, Traverse to Wilson  

This past Labor Day weekend, we tackled the 3 Wilson Group 14ers. This report is for Saturday's pack in to Navajo Lake, ascent up the north buttress of El Diente, traverse to Mt Wilson, and descent down Mt Wilson's standard route.

The weather was splendid, allowing us to start from Navajo Trailhead at 7am, reach Navajo Lake at 9am, start our climb at 10:15am (after setting up camp, and lunch), summit El Diente at 1:50pm, summit Mt Wilson at 5pm, and return to camp at 7:30pm.

Main notes: The north buttress route hadpretty solid rock. We heard/saw a massive rock slide on the north slopes route, which looked like a war plane shooting bullets on the mountain. Very scary looking, so consider the north buttress route if hiking from Navajo. Also, a bit of snow on the traverse, just past the crux made for a surprisingly difficult downclimb off of the coxcombs. A hiker told us there was a way to bypass the crux and coxcombs, though I haven't seen anything posted about that. No doubt lots of people would be interested to read/see more about it, if anyone has pics/TR.

Full Report, with tons of panos and route info:

Sample pics:

Approaching the buttress.

A look back while on the north buttress route.

The route we took from ~13900' (in red), just past the catwalk, follows KeithK's non-slab alternative to the summit of El Diente. The traditional route across the slabs is in blue.

Still a steep climb...

A look across the traverse, before descending to the right side to bypass the 1st half...

One of the ledges encountered while bypassing the gendarmes to the right.

We followed the route up the crux. A zoomed in look at Tom and Chris climbing the crux.

Tom straddles the narrow ridge past the crux.

A look up the class 4 final pitch to Mt. Wilson.

We stayed on the left side of the sharp ridge.

A look back after descending back into the upper Navajo basin.

A look at the north buttress profile at sunset.

Lots more descriptive pics in the full report:

 Comments or Questions
Brian C

Great detail!
09/11/2010 00:50
And nice photos too. Thanks!


09/10/2010 21:27
Nice pictures and I appreciate the details, it will come in handy for me next year!


Thanks for the beta!
09/10/2010 19:55
As smitty said this was a great trip report with some very useful pics.

I need to get back down there and climb El Diente (I got caught in a lightning storm at 9:45 AM last time I did the traverse from Wilson), and was considering this north buttress route, so thanks for the info...


09/10/2010 17:04
This T/R is one of the most comprehensive I've seen! The pics are amazing and they provide great detail for the full loop.

Nice work!


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