Peak(s):  North Arapaho Pk  -  13,502 feet
South Arapaho Pk  -  13,397 feet
"Old Baldy"  -  13,038 feet
Date Posted:  08/04/2010
Date Climbed:   07/31/2010
Author:  Kapelmuur
 "Traverse": On the weak side of action verbs  

Distance: 10.4 miles
Total Gain: 4,400'
Total Time: 7.5 hours


Last summer my family and I moved to Colorado. I was coming off six years of a soul-consuming staff job and several years transition into married life with kids, which is to say that at the time of the move fitness level was at an all-time low.

Although I've always been an avid hiker, I'd never thought so much about climbing mountains prior to moving here. Nothing like a view of the northern stretch of the front range from my backyard to inspire some wonder. Like, I wonder how high that one is? I wonder what the name of that one is? I wonder how hard it would be to get to the top of that one there, to the left, with the glacier in the middle? That's Longs Peak over there"have to save that one for later...

After training through the winter and spring to build fitness I'd climbed progressively more challenging (for a rookie) peaks each weekend, including my first three 14ers of Princeton, Quandary & Pikes. After a few weeks of travel, I returned home and consulted "the list", looking for something close by and maybe a little more technically challenging.
The recent hot temps have melted a lot of snow up high in only a couple of weeks--don't really want to deal with snow on my first technical route--so it seems like an ideal time to have a go at a pair of peaks which, visible from the street in front of my house, have been inspiring the imagination for over a year: South & North Arapaho. It will also be good preparation for the other targets intended for the month: Kelso, The Sawtooth and Longs.

My scrambling experience has thus far has amounted to some very casual bouldering amongst the Flatirons, annual April sorties up and over the endless Flintstones-esque piles of monzogranite in Joshua Tree National Park, and childhood explorations of the rugged coastline of Rhode Island's Narragansett Bay. A mix of anxiety and excitement creep in as I consider the potential difficulty of the traverse (since learning it's meaning in a mountaineering context, I have always thought the word "traverse" to be on the weak side of action verbs, given what it's meant to describe) airily brimming over the top of the Arapaho Glacier...I mean, snowfield.
I hit up a few hiking buddies but everyone is out of town for the weekend, so I am going solo on my first official attempt at Class 3. To compensate, I prepare, or more likely over-prepare, reading every route description and trip report, examining every photo, hoping that there will be a few people on the route to compare notes, or shadow if need be. I won't deny that cruising past the ill-prepared masses on the few popular 14ers I've done has been a cheap little ego boost, but by the apparent experience of the climbers authoring the route descriptions and trip reports of North Arapaho, I can tell that I'm likely to be the punter this time around.

Day of the Climb

4am comes fast and I am unsure as to whether or not I actually fell asleep at any point during the night. For a moment, as a river of Tylenol PM-induced fatigue courses through my head, I think "no way." But I remind myself that when the temptation to blow something off rears, it's best just to turn off the brain and get out the door, knowing that I'll feel better soon.

Sure enough, an hour later I am cruising up the 4th of July road blasting some 70's Smooth FM Gold disc a friend gave me and dodging nasty, pointed rocks which are intent on ripping out the underside of my ill-suited Acura. Somewhere along the way, I have supposedly passed through the small town of Eldora, although I never noticed because the streets are completely pitch black up here.

Once at the trailhead, it's pretty quiet as civil twilight starts to break:


There's one other live human being in the parking lot. We exchange hello's and I'm off up the trail in the dawn gloom, past meadows and through dark thickets of forest. As the morning begins to brighten, I am able to get glimpses through the trees of the valley and I am awed"some of the finest scenery I have seen so far in Colorado. A waterfall crashes on the other side of the valley, pretty loud despite being what must be a couple miles away.

I pick my way across a few streams and break into the open as the sun lights up Mount Neva to the West:


The quality of the trail is great and the gradient pretty gentle. I reach the junction with the Arapaho Saddle trail and swing right just before the 4th of July Mine in a basin surrounded by high peaks on three sides. I am too busy marveling at the luck of the miners to have discovered riches in this amazing place to even bother taking a photo. Crossing a few more streams, I leave the trees and move up some long switchback sections over the tundra.

The summit of South Arapaho comes into view:


As I'm taking the photo, two other hikers pass. They're paired up and each has a climbing helmet dangling off their packs:


Smart guys. I'd held a climbing helmet in my hand at the shop not a week before but didn't pull the trigger. Solo and no helmet. The punter, indeed.

Soon I'm up to the saddle and North Arapaho and the glacier finally appear:


It looks so close that I can reach out grab it, but it ain't!


A look behind reveals the southern stretch of the Front Range as a hiker approaches the saddle:


The final pitch to South Arapaho is steeper and more rocky, but pretty short. After a brief rest at the top where I eat a bar and examine the ridge for bit, I tighten my bootstraps and begin the traverse. Although I take a few photos along the way, this part of the route is pretty well covered in previous trip reports. Besides, I find most of my attention be absorbed in trying to identify the route amongst the chaotic jumble of rock.

The initial sections are easy with just a few minor scrambles and almost no exposure as I stay mostly to the left side/west of the ridge. I come upon the two climbers who passed me earlier and they are scaling the well-known slab that forms the crux halfway across the traverse. The initial block of the slab is short but has only a few finger-nail width holds. After two other climbers top out, they turn to watch me. I grab tightly, commit and in two quick pull-steps I am over the block and then quickly up the rest of the slab. Not so bad, but at this point I am glad to have worn my Trango's as the sticky toes and stiff soles made easy work of the thin placements.

Now on top of the gendarme, I get a good view of the second-half of the traverse, as the other climbers move on below. Which way through?


From here on out things get confusing. Seemingly gone are the orange-painted arrows which marked several of the initial sections of the route and I find myself slowing and stopping more frequently to scope out the route ahead, often seeing nothing obvious. Here the exposure to the right over the glacier becomes more pronounced and soon I reach a sharp drop-off in ridge (visible in the above photo just ahead of the climbers). After about of second considering the possibility of repelling the overhang by hand (hah!), I realize it's futile. The way is shut.

Backtracking a bit I end up taking the lesser of two evils and down-climbing some sketchy slabs off the left side onto loose and generally unfriendly terrain. I stumble and fight forward about 100 feet off the ridge for a while until becomes apparent that I'm totally off route. At one point some loose rock slides out from under me and my right ass cheek lands squarely on the sharp edge of a boulder. Yee-ouch, that's gonna leave a mark.

The summit block is close now and there is no obvious route to the top, so I pull the route description, copied from my dog-eared edition of Gerry Roach's Colorado's Indian Peaks, out of my pocket and look for "a gully descending southwest from the summit plateau." I sigh. Dammit--there are at least three gullies that fit this description as far as I can see. But, reaching the two gullies to the right appears to be inconvenient at best, given the mass of vertical rock between me and them, so the choice is pretty much made for me.

I begin to pick toward the left-hand gully. I would figure out on the way back that after the down-climb and short traverse to avoid the drop-off, the actual route immediately regains the ridge.

As it is, the gully proves to be the most difficult part of the day"steep, loose and very tight in places. I struggle upward and begin to feel the elevation and lack of sleep. There's no wind and it's pretty hot, which is a first for me up high. I'm sweating heavily and just as I begin to feel some frustration, I clear the top of the gully.

Obtaining the gentle summit plateau, I shuffle up to the mother of all summit cairns:


I rest up, suck down a badly needed gel and some more food and check out the fine view of the glacier from the opposing side:


Later on I would have a conversation with someone who told me that people used to ski off the ridge and down the glacier before it was closed off as part of Boulder's watershed. Looking at the vertical upper slope of the glacier, this sounds like utter insanity, but who knows. I notice the first puffy clouds forming in the east and I take a photo as they move and expand quickly. Time to head back.


The re-traverse is uneventful and takes me less than half the time of the outbound leg as the route seems much more obvious in this direction. Harsh reality when I have to acknowledge that my tendency to zone out on long hikes does not serve me well when route-finding is a constant concern. Semi-technical scrambling, exposure and obvious route conundrums seem to focus my concentration. Subtler, but perhaps equally important route finding doesn't necessarily--something I'll have to be more aware of and disciplined about in the future.

Up on South Arapaho again and there are about ten people hanging out on the summit, their final destination. On the traverse I saw a total of four other climbers--apparently being a semi-technical 13er won't win you any popularity contests, even this close to Denver. With weather moving in, I try for a lightening (no pun intended) ascent of the adjacent, unranked "Old Baldy". Only 90 minutes after I photographed those small puffy clouds, I turn and both North & South Arapaho are completely socked in:


As I come off the tundra flanks of Old Baldy, I hear the first roll of thunder high above and make a fast retreat down the trail. Lower down, the clouds part and I get a nice view of the roaring cascade across the valley:


I find out later that it emanates from Diamond Lake"will have to check that one out some day in the future. I arrive at back at the trailhead and find it much more crowded than before. The sun is out again and it's almost a festival-like atmosphere. I'm pumped to have completed my first Class 3 route. I start up the car, rev the engine, crank the FM Gold and take off down the dirt road. A cold Coke and jumbo Snickers bar await my arrival in Nederland.

Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13

 Comments or Questions
Nice Report
08/04/2010 15:17
Well written report. You captured the hike well. It was sure a nice day up there (slightly warm). I was the guy wearing the red helmet and backpack in your photos. Nice to meet ya.

Great writing
08/04/2010 16:03
Awesome trip report, I've made it to the summit of South Arapahoe but got pushed off the traverse by weather.

And I can definitely recommend diamond lake, its a beautiful place... just not on the weekends (crowds).


Good report
08/04/2010 16:40
The clouds really cooperated on pictures 3 and 9, I think. Both turned out very striking, particularly the summit cairn photo. I have a similar tendency to zone out (daydream, lost in thought) in the mountains that makes me wonder if Class 3 and higher really are for me. Good report.


Fine first report...
08/09/2010 05:14
I really enjoyed reading this. You put together an involving narrative accompanied by some great photos. Welcome to Colorado, and your new addiction. Your life will never be the same. I like photo three of S. Arapaho and the big sky. The angle on photo 4, the hikers, is unique. I like how you took it from down low, adding a sensation of upward progress. I look forward to reading and seeing more from you in the future. Maybe I'll see you up in the IPW sometime.

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