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In trying to take advantage of the wonderful Gore Range in our backyard and link up a few more of these little-known traverses, my buddies J, Steve, Caleb (RoanMtnMan) & I set out for Pitkin Lake friday afternoon with the intentions of climbing East & West Partner Peaks (Peaks "V" & "U") and linking the traverse between the two peaks.
After some rain on the 4.5 mile pack into Pitkin Lake, we dried things out at camp with the help of a campfire. Pitkin Lake & the surrounding basin are gorgeous and while we could have done this trip in a long day, we opted to spend 2 nights in Pitkin basin to enjoy some camping. We began hiking around 6:15am on Saturday up East Partner's standard south ridge (mostly class 3 with maybe a few class 4 moves). The ridge was very fun and we topped out around 7:45am.
We then started the traverse over to West Partner Peak. There were many initial towers to climb up and over coming down off East Partner's west ridge which did not exactly make the climbing "fast" by any means. However, the rock is solid, for the most part, and there were some exciting downclimbs with decent exposure. I would say most of the climbing on the 1st half of this traverse from East Partner is class 3 with some class 4 moves. We stayed on the ridge proper for the most part unless a cliff blocked a descent and we had to find a way around.
Caleb was not feeling well due to a likely stomach bug, so he descended from the saddle between East & West Partner Peaks back to our camp at Pitkin Lake to rest. The real difficulties occured after the saddle and the 2nd half of the traverse on the ascent up to West Partner Peak. The climbing involved many exposed initial downclimbs and then some tricky traverses/upclimbs around and up several towers. I would say most of the climbing is class 3/4 with some potential low 5th class moves and all pretty exposed.
After the majority of the traverse and the real difficulties behind us, we hopped on West Partner's standard south ridge route and followed the fun class 3/4 ridge to the summit. I think we topped out around 10:45am yielding a traverse time of about 2 3/4 hours.
We then retraced our steps back down West Partner's south ridge for some distance past where we hopped on the south ridge from the traverse. After some fun "easy" scrambling down lower on West Partner's long south ridge, we exited left (east) and made our way back down to our camp at Pitkin Lake. We found Caleb feeling better after he took a nap and we had a great afternoon and evening of swimming and fishing as well as a raging campfire that evening. The rain held off the entire day and night.
A great weekend with my buds in one of my most favorite ranges. The Partner Traverse was very exciting and I highly recommend it for the experienced scrambler. It was great to get to the tops of the Partner Peaks and really see how to link up Ripsaw Ridge to the north and then to Peaks W, etc and over to the Grand Traverse to the south. We always love getting into the Gores where you will likley see very few people and have the peaks all to yourselves. I hope this report is useful to some who would like to try this traverse.
Thanks for reading
Brandon
Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
always looks like you are going to crash into the rocks. I gave my mom a near heart attack when I showed her one of me in Evolution Basin/Lake in the Sierras.
Nice work Brandon, glad you guys had a solid outing and enjoyed the great outdoors in addition to climbing.
Brian: Yeah, that cliff jumpin shot looks worse than it really is. That was only a 5 ft rock but looks like we are diving way too shallow Nice work to you too man on your IPW ventures.
I might have to do this someday as I still need both peaks. Looks like a fun couple of days up there. Catch anything in the lake? A nice grilled trout would have hit the spot.
Tain21, have fun! Glad you enjoy the Gore stories!
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