OTHER Trip Report 06/25/2010

Peak(s):	Petit Grepon - 12000
Date Posted:	06/25/2010
Modified:	06/26/2010
Date Climbed:	06/21/2010
Author:	Winter8000m

Petit Grepon - South Face (5.8+) For Kevin
This one's for Kevin. I kept on saying that before my trip on Saturday. When I heard about his accident I was broken. I had never had a good friend and climbing partner die. I had my doubts about climbing again. But I knew Kevin would never want me to stop and that kept me going. Even after the Maroon Bells accident with Kevin, I stopped climbing for a week or two. The growing passion never went away it seemed. Climbing is both a blast, and a stress reliever for me. I got questioned by family why I'm going up after this. I reply simply with,"God has called me to." I really believe that. In the matter of fact much of my family and relatives don't understand me and climbing. They think it's to risky of a sport and "suicidal." They hope everyday it seems for me to stop doing it. But it's something I will never give up. While planning this alpine rock trip I had Kevin in my mind. He was such a great friend. It's been a very hard time going through this. Sometimes I'm fine but other times I break down crying knowing I will never see him again. I probably will never get why he died on Little Bear. Why we made it through the Bells? I don't know. I do know our video has made a huge impact around the nation! I believe it is my calling now to continue giving presentations with the video. God know's though. He had it happened for a good reason. So many people have been touched by his life. Kevin wanted to leave a legacy and he sure did. The Petit Grepon is a climb I have wanted to do for a very long time. Whoever has climbed with me before knows that I love the technical alpine climbing. Whether it's ice/mixed climbing or simply rock climbing. I challenge myself everytime I go out and I see progress everytime. Many of you think my dream is crazy and you probably won't believe that I can do it until I summit the first one. I know this and it does not bother me because it gives me more determination. I will continue to just keep climbing. Climbing for Christ is my passion. He is the one that gave me this life by sacrificing his life for my sin. I called a climbing partner of mine, Danny, and asked him if he was interested and yes he was! He had just got done climbing a 5.11d trad route in Eldo and was phsyched. We decided to go camp there. Of course with my bad last minute time management we didn't leave Boulder until 11. That put us at the Glacier Gorge Trailhead at about 1. We got our packs together. Danny brought a steak I was eyeing out! I could not wait to hit the campsite! We hiked with our 60 pound packs for 4 miles. We spotted a campsite near tree line and put the tent up. Danny started up the stove or wait, the gas had leaked out. We were very sad. So we tried starting a fire but lucky me, I forgot all the fire starting stuff at home. So right when the sun came up, we gave up and ate some cold food and then to bed. I have read on countless websites to never go on this climb on the weekend because you will be waiting more than any Eldo climb. It made me think that it would be twice as worse as the Bastile Crack in Eldo. Yikes! I wanted to start the climb at dawn but sleep was more important. I overslept the alarm and woke up at about 9. I was freaking out. We got all the ropes and gear together and headed up. After about a mile we finally got to the climb. This thing was huge. I pointed to it and said,"Were climbing this?" Yup we were. The summit looked tiny. I was excited. Plus, there were only two parties on the route. We geared up pretty fast and I started leading the first pitch. It was easy fifth class with exposure. I got to the top of the pitch and set up an anchor to belay Danny up. He came up but started getting mad about this pack we had to carry to the top. It had all our rain gear, food, water, Kevin's Memorial, and an extra 60m rope for the 6 rappels. It sucked carrying it on all the chimney pitches. This climb is about 8 pitches with 1,000ft. of rock climbing. It was 5.8-5.9- in the old school rating. Danny lead the next pitch which was a 5.7 chimney. He got up and screamed for joy once at the anchor. This was my idea of a great day out. I followed but starting getting mad at this pack because chimney climbing was not as easy. On top of that to get to the belay, I had to climb a few feet of an off width crack. I thought it was impossible but I did it. Then I offered to lead the next pitch which was a 5.8. It was such a fun lead. It threw everything at you. Not only that, but the nut placements were all bomber. I stretched it out a little out onto the next pitch and set up a belay to belay Danny up. I looked at the next pitch while belaying and really wanted to lead it. Danny came up soon enough and joined me. I told him I was going to lead the next pitch but that would mean I would not get to lead the crux pitch which was a bit sad. This pitch proved to be the second best lead for me on the route. The exposure was unreal. There was 600 vertical feet below your feet. The moves were all fun. I think this pitch went at 5.7 or 5.8. When I set up an anchor I looked out and there were clouds starting to form. All part of the alpine game. I screamed,"On Belay!" and Danny started up. I stared up at the crux pitch and was thinking how I could bribe Danny to let me lead it but I had just lead a few pitches in a row and let him have the lead. We chose the direct 5.9 variation which had scant pro. The crux was vertical to a little overhanging but not too bad if you did the right moves. When I reached the belay with this enormous pack on my back I got it off and clipped it onto the anchor. Three more pitches to the top now. The clouds were blowing east and past us. I thought to myself were going to do this. I have talked to a couple friends who have done this route and they always get rained off. I felt privileged and thanked God for the weather. Danny gave me the next lead on pitch 6 now. I knew these two pitches were quite run out. That's what I read. And it was suppose to be only 5.7 but route finding was quite hard! I starting leading it and it sure was the mental crux. I'm not a fan of run outs but there was no choice. I kept on going and focused very hard but soon I yelled slack! And noticed the rope drag was bad. I was placing pieces wherever I could find them. Even after extending all of them there was rope drag. I yelled and told Danny I was going to set up a belay because I was not going to run it out with it feeling like someone is pulling me down. I soon found a spot for a hanging belay which was not comfortable at all. I belayed Danny up and gave him the next lead. He lead this pitch very well taking the hard variations. I followed with this heavy pack and climbed a couple of the 5.10 cracks he lead up and soon joined him on the ridge. I was in awe. A 1,000 feet or more of vertical exposure on each side. I then looked at the last pitch was the best pitch I have ever lead flat out. You walked on almost a knife edge for a couple hundred feet to reach the summit headwall which went at 5.6-5.7. Pretty easy but the exposure was everywhere. I looked back at Danny after placing a nut. A huge smile was on his face. Looking back at him almost looked like a picture you see in the Himalayas. Right when I stepped on the summit, I thought of Kevin. This summit was only the size of a office desk. I spotted the start of the bolted rappels and belayed Danny up. We both took our turns for the summit picture. He himself did a handstand and I took a beautiful panorama of it. I placed a note with a picture of Kevin on the summit. I sat and looked out in the distant about how much I miss him. A tear ran down my face. I got my summit pictures taken and we were ready to get down. The sun was starting to disappear and we wanted to be off by the time it was. It took 6 200ft. rappels and we were off. It was not that easy though spotting the bolts. You really had to look for them. I felt like I was searching for Waldo. We got down and got to our campsite by dark. The descent was not that fun. After 4 miles we finally reached the truck. It was about 11. I got home in a rush and was very tired. I slept that night but then realized I had to get up that next morning to teach Michael and Jeff glacier travel/crevasse rescue for our trip. Many of us will always miss Kevin. He will always be on my mind. He inspired me to be a man of God. He was an amazing friend. Through this whole thing I have learned to trust God and draw near to him. It has truly helped me. It will no doubt still be a struggle. It's more for my selfish reasons though. He is in a better place now and I just want him to be on Earth. In Loving Memory of Kevin Andrew Hayne

Petit Grepon - South Face (5.8+) For Kevin

This one's for Kevin.

I kept on saying that before my trip on Saturday. When I heard about his accident I was broken. I had never had a good friend and climbing partner die. I had my doubts about climbing again. But I knew Kevin would never want me to stop and that kept me going. Even after the Maroon Bells accident with Kevin, I stopped climbing for a week or two. The growing passion never went away it seemed. Climbing is both a blast, and a stress reliever for me. I got questioned by family why I'm going up after this. I reply simply with,"God has called me to." I really believe that. In the matter of fact much of my family and relatives don't understand me and climbing. They think it's to risky of a sport and "suicidal." They hope everyday it seems for me to stop doing it. But it's something I will never give up.

While planning this alpine rock trip I had Kevin in my mind. He was such a great friend. It's been a very hard time going through this. Sometimes I'm fine but other times I break down crying knowing I will never see him again. I probably will never get why he died on Little Bear. Why we made it through the Bells? I don't know. I do know our video has made a huge impact around the nation! I believe it is my calling now to continue giving presentations with the video. God know's though. He had it happened for a good reason. So many people have been touched by his life. Kevin wanted to leave a legacy and he sure did.

The Petit Grepon is a climb I have wanted to do for a very long time. Whoever has climbed with me before knows that I love the technical alpine climbing. Whether it's ice/mixed climbing or simply rock climbing. I challenge myself everytime I go out and I see progress everytime. Many of you think my dream is crazy and you probably won't believe that I can do it until I summit the first one. I know this and it does not bother me because it gives me more determination. I will continue to just keep climbing. Climbing for Christ is my passion. He is the one that gave me this life by sacrificing his life for my sin.

I called a climbing partner of mine, Danny, and asked him if he was interested and yes he was! He had just got done climbing a 5.11d trad route in Eldo and was phsyched. We decided to go camp there. Of course with my bad last minute time management we didn't leave Boulder until 11. That put us at the Glacier Gorge Trailhead at about 1. We got our packs together. Danny brought a steak I was eyeing out! I could not wait to hit the campsite! We hiked with our 60 pound packs for 4 miles. We spotted a campsite near tree line and put the tent up. Danny started up the stove or wait, the gas had leaked out. We were very sad. So we tried starting a fire but lucky me, I forgot all the fire starting stuff at home. So right when the sun came up, we gave up and ate some cold food and then to bed.

I have read on countless websites to never go on this climb on the weekend because you will be waiting more than any Eldo climb. It made me think that it would be twice as worse as the Bastile Crack in Eldo. Yikes! I wanted to start the climb at dawn but sleep was more important. I overslept the alarm and woke up at about 9. I was freaking out. We got all the ropes and gear together and headed up. After about a mile we finally got to the climb. This thing was huge. I pointed to it and said,"Were climbing this?" Yup we were. The summit looked tiny. I was excited. Plus, there were only two parties on the route.
We geared up pretty fast and I started leading the first pitch. It was easy fifth class with exposure. I got to the top of the pitch and set up an anchor to belay Danny up. He came up but started getting mad about this pack we had to carry to the top. It had all our rain gear, food, water, Kevin's Memorial, and an extra 60m rope for the 6 rappels. It sucked carrying it on all the chimney pitches.

This climb is about 8 pitches with 1,000ft. of rock climbing. It was 5.8-5.9- in the old school rating. Danny lead the next pitch which was a 5.7 chimney. He got up and screamed for joy once at the anchor. This was my idea of a great day out. I followed but starting getting mad at this pack because chimney climbing was not as easy. On top of that to get to the belay, I had to climb a few feet of an off width crack. I thought it was impossible but I did it.

Then I offered to lead the next pitch which was a 5.8. It was such a fun lead. It threw everything at you. Not only that, but the nut placements were all bomber. I stretched it out a little out onto the next pitch and set up a belay to belay Danny up. I looked at the next pitch while belaying and really wanted to lead it. Danny came up soon enough and joined me. I told him I was going to lead the next pitch but that would mean I would not get to lead the crux pitch which was a bit sad. This pitch proved to be the second best lead for me on the route. The exposure was unreal. There was 600 vertical feet below your feet. The moves were all fun. I think this pitch went at 5.7 or 5.8. When I set up an anchor I looked out and there were clouds starting to form. All part of the alpine game. I screamed,"On Belay!" and Danny started up.

I stared up at the crux pitch and was thinking how I could bribe Danny to let me lead it but I had just lead a few pitches in a row and let him have the lead. We chose the direct 5.9 variation which had scant pro. The crux was vertical to a little overhanging but not too bad if you did the right moves.

When I reached the belay with this enormous pack on my back I got it off and clipped it onto the anchor. Three more pitches to the top now. The clouds were blowing east and past us. I thought to myself were going to do this. I have talked to a couple friends who have done this route and they always get rained off. I felt privileged and thanked God for the weather. Danny gave me the next lead on pitch 6 now. I knew these two pitches were quite run out. That's what I read. And it was suppose to be only 5.7 but route finding was quite hard! I starting leading it and it sure was the mental crux. I'm not a fan of run outs but there was no choice. I kept on going and focused very hard but soon I yelled slack! And noticed the rope drag was bad. I was placing pieces wherever I could find them. Even after extending all of them there was rope drag. I yelled and told Danny I was going to set up a belay because I was not going to run it out with it feeling like someone is pulling me down. I soon found a spot for a hanging belay which was not comfortable at all. I belayed Danny up and gave him the next lead. He lead this pitch very well taking the hard variations. I followed with this heavy pack and climbed a couple of the 5.10 cracks he lead up and soon joined him on the ridge.

I was in awe. A 1,000 feet or more of vertical exposure on each side.

I then looked at the last pitch was the best pitch I have ever lead flat out.

You walked on almost a knife edge for a couple hundred feet to reach the summit headwall which went at 5.6-5.7. Pretty easy but the exposure was everywhere. I looked back at Danny after placing a nut. A huge smile was on his face. Looking back at him almost looked like a picture you see in the Himalayas. Right when I stepped on the summit, I thought of Kevin. This summit was only the size of a office desk. I spotted the start of the bolted rappels and belayed Danny up. We both took our turns for the summit picture.

He himself did a handstand and I took a beautiful panorama of it.

I placed a note with a picture of Kevin on the summit. I sat and looked out in the distant about how much I miss him. A tear ran down my face. I got my summit pictures taken and we were ready to get down. The sun was starting to disappear and we wanted to be off by the time it was. It took 6 200ft. rappels and we were off. It was not that easy though spotting the bolts. You really had to look for them. I felt like I was searching for Waldo. We got down and got to our campsite by dark.

The descent was not that fun. After 4 miles we finally reached the truck. It was about 11. I got home in a rush and was very tired. I slept that night but then realized I had to get up that next morning to teach Michael and Jeff glacier travel/crevasse rescue for our trip.
Many of us will always miss Kevin. He will always be on my mind. He inspired me to be a man of God. He was an amazing friend. Through this whole thing I have learned to trust God and draw near to him. It has truly helped me. It will no doubt still be a struggle. It's more for my selfish reasons though. He is in a better place now and I just want him to be on Earth.

In Loving Memory of Kevin Andrew Hayne

Comments or Questions

dubsho3000	God is not calling 6/25/2010 8:52pm You are delusional if you think god wants you to climb. I just read the Bells report last night and it made me sick to think of all the people telling Kevin that god saved him that day. I wonder how that affected his psyche, when people were basically telling him he was favored by god. I‘m truly sorry for your loss, but you need to realize that, at a minimum, god is not keeping you safe.
dmccool	Please, please... 6/25/2010 9:13pm don‘t post things like this. If you disagree, don‘t bash someone else‘s religious opinions or their reliance on God for safety. I understand your side and I know that claiming to know God‘s mind can be dangerous at times, but please don‘t turn this into something it isn‘t. This is a Trip Report, not debate club.
dubsho3000	No 6/25/2010 9:16pm It needed to be said on the Bells report, and it wasn‘t. I‘m saying it now. I‘m not bashing his religious beliefs; I‘m bashing his mountaineering practice.
Winter8000m	Pictures 6/25/2010 9:30pm They won‘t show up? I put them on it but for some reason there not showing up?
Kiefer	Sweetness! 6/25/2010 9:35pm Way to nail this peak! I‘ve been ‘drooling‘ after this one for a while. From what I understand, the route is fairly clean making the overall difficulty a tad easier but still none-the-less, exposed as all hell. The Saber would be a way-cool climb as well. I‘ve viewed this report on 2 different computers and I can‘t see any pictures either. Nice job!!
Presto	Nice Report! 6/25/2010 10:15pm Wow, would really love to see the photos. Thanks for posting. Happy trails! And to dubsho3000, poor form on your part to down vote the report (1 star) when it is obvious from your comments that your vote is based on a fundamental disagreement with the poster, and not based on the trip report.
kaiman	Good trip report. 6/25/2010 11:29pm It appears that the pictures didn‘t get uploaded though. I can see the links in the code to where the images should be but it doesn‘t look like you uploaded them, or it timed out and they didn‘t make it to the server. If you go in and Edit the post and Browse for the photos and Upload them again, it should work for you.
kaiman	On second look... 6/25/2010 11:33pm it appears that you are linking to images on Facebook which is probably a no no for security reasons. Try uploading the images to 14ers.com and then adding the Image links to them.
bckcntryskr	nice climb 6/25/2010 11:53pm I have this one on my short list. looking to hit it mid week sometime soon. May God bless all of us out there
lordhelmut	1 star vote aside 6/26/2010 1:47am Dubsho is allowed to state his opinion, which is a valid point.
Winter8000m	Comments 6/26/2010 2:03am Let me clear this to the 14ers community. This is a TR. Not debate class. This a report on my climb. Not vote one star because you disagree with my beliefs. Pretty low if you ask me. I meant for this to be tribute to Kevin‘s life and you guy‘s are basically saying it‘s crap. Again....that‘s pretty low. I don‘t have a problem with you not voting ”five” stars. All I ask for is respect.
Winter8000m	Thanks Guys 6/26/2010 4:48am I don‘t know how I can upload these pictures. This is my first actual TR on 14ers and I am not familiar with doing these pics. Do I actually have to resize them if there 14mp? And how do i do that?
centrifuge	very nice report 6/26/2010 5:44am sir, and excellent climbs. Your photos of this are really cool, and hope you get them working soon!
kaiman	You will need to resize them... 6/26/2010 7:13pm with something like Photoshop, Picassa, Windows Picture Manager, iPhoto, etc. and then save copies of them. Then go in and Edit your post and Browse for the photos, Attach them and Upload them. The img tags correspond with the photos themselves, that you have uploaded (example: will be photo#1 that you upload). Give it a try and see how it goes...
TomPierce	Great Reports and Pics, Noah! 6/26/2010 9:53pm Great job on the climb and thanks for the report. Conditions looked really good, much less snow than I expected. -Tom
Winter8000m	Hey Everyone! 6/27/2010 3:11am Guess what? Pictures are finally up!!!!
dcbates80911	Nice Report... 6/27/2010 3:47am Nice report Noah and I think you know a lot more than some give you credit.
MikeyC	Great Report! 6/28/2010 12:47am Great job on a beautiful climb Noah! I‘m envious of your climbing ability and would love to climb with you again soon!!! I‘m very sorry for your loss. I know what it feels like to lose a friend. I pray that God will protect you on all of your climbs. See ya soon! -Mike
Ridge runner	nice climb! 2/1/2011 12:24am I really enjoyed this report and felt like I was there too. Great work on the parts you led, sounds like you know what you‘re doing, and anyone who can climb the Petit is a skilled climber in my book. I know a few people who will be drooling for this climb after reading your report. Sorry to hear about losing a close friend and partner. Keep following your dreams, I‘m sure Kevin would want you to. (I don‘t see any of the pictures, maybe there is something wrong with my computer.)
Johnson	Get the pictures up! 6/2/2011 2:57pm Nice tribute to your friend.
Johnson	Wow 6/2/2011 2:57pm Wow.

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