Peak(s):  Longs Peak  -  14,255 feet
Date Posted:  06/24/2010
Modified:  06/25/2010
Date Climbed:   06/19/2010
Author:  bckcntryskr

 Notch route  

The Notch couloir on Longs Peak (14,255')
Date: 19 June 2010
Climbers: Tim Martin, Matt Peres, Larry McMahon
Equipment: Ice axes, crampons, rope, cams, nuts, pickets, screws, mountaineering boots
Start time: 0200, end time: 2200
Climb: ~5000'
topo route

This was our plan "A" from the week before. This Saturday was looking to offer perfect weather and did not let us down. This was a very good, considering how long we were out there. We donned our headlamps and set off hiking up the approach trail in the dark. This was also a good thing, because we could not see our objective during the night and were thus not intimidated by the distance. This was a mixed condition route. We did get our first view of the notch at sunrise from Chasm Lake.

We "cruised" right up the Lambs Slide and to the entrance of Broadway. The snow was mostly firm. We did very little potholing. Did I mention that I hate potholing? We encountered the only other people we would see all day. Two rather "slow" moving climbers ahead of us on Broadway. Broadway is a narrow ledge of mixed conditions (snow, rock) with a couple of crux moves.

bckcntryskr Broadway

LRLarry Broadway

We were very blessed to have MattyP kicking steps and leading the way. He set good pro most of the day. There was one pitch that Larry led and Matt was second. I was to sweep and collect the pro. After about 200' I realized that Matt was cleaning the pro and I was due for one heck of swing, should I have lost my holds. We probably pitched the rope 20 times throughout the day, throwing pickets, cams and a few nuts along the way.
MattyP Broadway

After clearing Broadway, we tackled the Notch. This is a very steep climb, requiring to ice tools per climber for safety.
bckcntryskr downclimb

We were fortunate to find a much needed stream at nearly 13,000' and took the chance to fill our bladders. We would go through 2 gallons apiece on this day.

bckcntryskr & LRLarry Broadway

We had some sandwiches for our late lunch at the top on the Notch. Our route out was longer than anticipated and as we pushed toward our 20th hour in the field we were very tired. We did a couple of rappels and some glissading along the way to make it a little more tolerable. There would be no skiing on this route for us. Though it is possible to ski, we felt the excess weight would be crushing. It was a great day to be out in the high country and great company for such a challenging route.

MattyP & LRLarry

Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

 Comments or Questions

Nice TR
11/30/2010 17:20
Nice TR. It looks like a great route.

”Two rather "slow" moving climbers ahead of us on Broadway.”
Are you being sarcastic, or are we to assume 20 hours is fast?

ap snow

06/25/2010 22:13
I climbed this a couple days ago... If you left some pro behind I have it, let me know I will get them back to you. Really cool route. I have been looking to ski this for years but its a hard one to find a partner for... Let me know if you want to ski it next year in mid may (thats the best time usually) So far I know of 4 documented ski descents of this route and one ski base jump!

Mountain Woman

snow pack
06/27/2010 16:51
What was the snow like? I am thinking of heading up tomorrow to do the Loft Route - need some exercise close to Denver - and am hoping to keep it a class 4.

   Using your forum id/password. Not registered? Click Here

Caution: The information contained in this report may not be accurate and should not be the only resource used in preparation for your climb. Failure to have the necessary experience, physical conditioning, supplies or equipment can result in injury or death. and the author(s) of this report provide no warranties, either express or implied, that the information provided is accurate or reliable. By using the information provided, you agree to indemnify and hold harmless and the report author(s) with respect to any claims and demands against them, including any attorney fees and expenses. Please read the Safety and Disclaimer pages for more information.

© 2017®, 14ers Inc.