Tijeras Peak Trip Report 10/05/2009

Peak(s):	Tijeras Peak - 13,612 feet Music Mountain - 13,365 feet
Date Posted:	10/05/2009
Date Climbed:	10/03/2009
Author:	Kevin Baker

Tijeras & Music: The Spirit of the Sangres
Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Comments or Questions

Kevin Baker	looked like a possibility 10/6/2009 4:11am Dave Cooper‘s 2nd edition has the south ridge as an alternate route, although I don‘t have the book. From the summit of Tijeras, you can easily get down to the saddle. We were thinking of traversing over to the east ridge of Music from the saddle, but there is a huge cliff band below it! Hard to tell how tough that ridge is, but I‘m guessing there may be some exposed low 5th class.
lordhelmut	i‘ll second that nice work 10/6/2009 5:01am Yeah, John and I spent a good long while checking that south ridge out, exposed low 5th class for sure. Thats a cool combo and you guys had an amazing day. That view from Music Pass is inspiring to say the least. If you ever get the urge to head back and get Milwaukee-Pico Asilado traverse, let me know. It looks like a beast and a really long day.
jf32	South Ridge 10/6/2009 4:17pm I‘ve had that ridge on my mind a lot the last few weeks - I keep thinking if we did Music as our first mountain of the weekend we would have given it a try. Oh well - one day I‘ll make my way back.
sgladbach	South Ridge is very exposed......... 11/30/2010 5:28pm but not that hard. Great photos; Nice report. One FINE basin, isn't it!!!? My friend, Marlyn Peet, and I made a Tierjas, Music, Milwaukee, Pico Asilado, UN 13020 (Dropped into South fork of Cottonwood Creek then up to Marble/ Milwaukee saddle) , Marble traverse from the car at the Music Pass TH in about 20 hours. The hardest climbing was the South Ridge of Music. It is definitely a knife edge in places; I remember taking rests by laying down on my belly across the knife. Lots of bear crawling and belly scooting. Impossible to protect, but hard to fall off as long as you continue to straddle. Another report on this site suggested that the South ridge might be too hard to follow, but I know that several who've expressed that opinion are better rock climbers than I. If I can do it, so could they. A high degree of comfort on very exposed rock is required, but the moves couldn't have exceeded 5.2, possibly staying class 4. The Music-Milwaukee portion of the day was also a problem. Eventually, we gave up on the ridge, dropped south and contoured underneath the Milwaukee summit before climbing back up. Last funny comment: My ex-wife had worried when we didn't return to camp by nightfall and she expressed her concern to some guys camped nearby. In the morning, the guys checked on us and we told them we'd had a long day, catching 6 peaks. One guy says, "If you got lost , just admit it; don't make up excuses. You couldn't have climbed six peaks; there are only three mountains in this area!" In the heart of the Sangres there are only three mountains!? Guy must not be a climber.
jf32	Nice Work 2/5/2011 12:22am Great work on two fun mountains. What did you guys think of the South Ridge to Music. I wound up taking the East ridge also after spending some time looking at the South Ridge - if you studied it at all what would you guys rate it? I was real tempted to give it a try but wasn‘t too sure what we‘d find 2/3rds up and higher.
Marmot72	south ridge! 1/2/2012 5:57pm A friend and I took the south ridge to the southern summit over July 4, '11. A great route - lot's of class 4 on solid Crestone-esque rock. Also spots where one can bail left (W) to grassy benches. As we had thunder moving in, we didn't get to the high point and instead descended the east ridge, so I'll be back next summer to complete this route.

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