Download Agreement, Release, and Acknowledgement of Risk:
You (the person requesting this file download) fully understand mountain climbing ("Activity") involves risks and dangers of serious bodily injury, including permanent disability, paralysis, and death ("Risks") and you fully accept and assume all such risks and all responsibility for losses, costs, and damages you incur as a result of your participation in this Activity.
You acknowledge that information in the file you have chosen to download may not be accurate and may contain errors. You agree to assume all risks when using this information and agree to release and discharge 14ers.com, 14ers Inc. and the author(s) of such information (collectively, the "Released Parties").
You hereby discharge the Released Parties from all damages, actions, claims and liabilities of any nature, specifically including, but not limited to, damages, actions, claims and liabilities arising from or related to the negligence of the Released Parties. You further agree to indemnify, hold harmless and defend 14ers.com, 14ers Inc. and each of the other Released Parties from and against any loss, damage, liability and expense, including costs and attorney fees, incurred by 14ers.com, 14ers Inc. or any of the other Released Parties as a result of you using information provided on the 14ers.com or 14ers Inc. websites.
You have read this agreement, fully understand its terms and intend it to be a complete and unconditional release of all liability to the greatest extent allowed by law and agree that if any portion of this agreement is held to be invalid the balance, notwithstanding, shall continue in full force and effect.
By clicking "OK" you agree to these terms. If you DO NOT agree, click "Cancel"...
I had met Cliff(Ascent88 ) a week ago. We had been discussing a climb of the East ridge on Mount Bancroft here on 14ers.com. We met to do a practice session to teach me how to Rappel. Out to Castlewood Canyon we went. In the snow. It was a lot of fun except the part where I slipped on my first try and got my hand stuck between the rope and the rock. Not good! Cliff is an amazing person and reached down and grabbed my harness and pulled up to let the weight off the rope. I finally got my hand out and we had a good rest of the day. It was a good lesson learned we figured.
On the 11th we met in Highlands Ranch at 4:00a.m. to carpool to the Loch Lomond trailhead. We left the trailhead at 5:35 and began the snowshoe up the road. It was an amazing morning! Not a cloud in the sky! We crunched up the road and were just below tree line when the sunrise met us.
That was about when we first saw our objective as well.
We found a safe way to gain the ridge and picked a nice spot to stash the snow shoes. On to the good stuff. The ridge starts out with class three scrambling and snow bridges. Cliff and I are both pretty comfortable with scrambling and climbing snow but this was a little different! Lots of exposure, soft snow, and nicely lubricated rocks made this very fun!
The wind we had heard so much about finally decided to make it's presence known as well. It made it very cold. I was starting to get nervous about the remaining climb as we started adding layers to protect our faces from the freezing wind and spindrift. Here is Cliff all covered up.
We decided to climb up to the notch to gather info for the next climb at the very least. When we reached the notch we sat there for a good 20 minutes discussing the pros and cons of continuing or going home when the wind stopped and the warmth of the sun returned. Deciding that we had already come so far and that a down climb wasn't real attractive we set up our anchor, removed some old webbing to take with us, flaked out the rope and finally took our leap of faith.
With the Rappel behind us it was time to figure out how we were going to get out of the notch.
Cliff had brought some pro, but we decided to try the exposed fourth class exit on the left. I unfortunately didn't get any pictures because I was so pumped about what we had just done and what we were about to do. I was also shaking so I am sure they would have been pretty blurry anyway. After the notch there was plenty of fourth class scrambling and snow bridges left to play with.
Dave Cooper was right. When the scrambling is starting to get tedious it just ends. A grassy slope with a little talus mixed in led us to the summit!
Here is Cliff
And yours truly
It was pretty cold so we just snapped a couple of pics traded out a little bit of gear and started down the Southeast ridge with the help of the GPS Cliff had brought along. We couldn't see anything! We made it back to the snowshoe stash and headed out to the road just in time for the sun to come back out and the skies to clear.
We made it back to the car at 3:00 p.m. 9.5 hours car to car. I didn't think it was too bad of a time considering this was the hardest climb either of us had done. We celebrated with a couple beers at Tommyknockers in Idaho Springs while discussing future climbs. One that had caught our eye was this ridge on Mount Eva I believe.
If anyone has any info on it we would love to see it!
Until next time! It was nice getting to climb with you Cliff!
Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
Kind of came accross this a bit late. Nice write up!! I have been eyeing out this route for a while. I got blown off of it this last winter. Quite an accomplishment!! That route looks like it throws everything at you.
Caution: The information contained in this report may not be accurate and should not be the only resource used in preparation for your climb. Failure to have the necessary experience, physical conditioning, supplies or equipment can result in injury or death. 14ers.com and the author(s) of this report provide no warranties, either express or implied, that the information provided is accurate or reliable. By using the information provided, you agree to indemnify and hold harmless 14ers.com and the report author(s) with respect to any claims and demands against them, including any attorney fees and expenses. Please read the 14ers.com Safety and Disclaimer pages for more information.
Please respect private property: 14ers.com supports the rights of private landowners to determine how and by whom their land will be used. In Colorado, it is your responsibility to determine if land is private and to obtain the appropriate permission before entering the property.