Capitol Peak Trip Report 07/21/2008

Peak(s):	Capitol Peak - 14,138 feet
Date Posted:	07/21/2008
Date Climbed:	07/19/2008
Author:	summitwolf

Capitol Peak - Standard Approach
I took the day off work on Friday and drove to the Capitol Creek TH to meet up with Cthulhu for a climb of Capitol Peak. Arrived at the TH shortly before 1:30 pm and was on the ditch trail shortly after 2:00. FYI, I had heard stories about cattle on this trail. Needless to say, there were many "landmines" to be avoided along the way and the trail is getting pretty torn up, especially around the creek crossings. The view of Capitol on the approach is both awe inspiring and humbling. Arrived at the lake shortly after 5:00, set up camp, met Cthulhu and his wife and took more pictures of what lay ahead of us. The beauty of the basin was amazing. The next morning, we left the comfort of our tents at 4:30 and started up the trail to the Mt. Daly / Capitol Saddle by 5:00. We marveled at how the full moon reflected perfectly on Capitol Lake for the entire ascent up to the saddle. It was breathtaking. Once at the saddle, we considered our future. There is still plenty of snow on the standard route almost the entire way to K2. The only other way to avoid the snow is by taking the direct line on the 4th Class ridge to K2. Luckily for us, we had brought our crampons and ice axes and decided to tackle the standard approach. Once past the snow, we ditched our crampons and headed toward the right side of K2. It is not necessary to climb to the top of K2 but we did anyway. The view of the remaining route from up there is worth the extra effort. Next came the notorious knife edge which we both tackled using the "scooting" method. Whatever works, right ? Side note: Elliojos (another 14ers.com member) had already summited and was heading back across the knife at that point. We watched him as he effortlessly "tightroped" the entire section (without the rope of course). Needless to say, Cthulhu and I were completely humbled by this demonstration. Our hats are off to you, Elliojos ! Once past the knife edge, we stayed left of the ridge and slowly ascended on small ledges and trail systems. The route finding at this point can be somewhat tricky. We took our time and looked for cairns. The last 100 feet below the summit, we decided to scramble straight up to the ridge instead of staying to the left. The rock was remarkably solid and made for a great alternative approach. Once on the ridge, we were able to walk casually to the summit and arrived shortly after 9:00 am. The weather was perfect. Not a cloud in the sky, so we soaked up the sun for a good hour before starting back. The decent back to the knife edge took just as long as the ascent. I can see why it is critical to have good weather on this climb. Do not even attempt anything beyond K2 if the weather looks at all suspicious. This would be a really bad place to be in less than optimal conditions. The snow that had been so hard that morning had completely softened up by the time we made it back to our gear at the start of the snowfield. Much to our surprise, we were able to enjoy a fun glissade / traverse back to the saddle. We eventually made it back to camp around 1:30 and took one last look at this magnificent peak. Another side note: The wildflowers in the basin are simply indescribable right now. Thanks again to Cthulhu for meeting up with me on this climb. It was a fantastic weekend, great company and an amazing mountain all rolled into one. Who could ask for anything more ? Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Capitol Peak - Standard Approach

I took the day off work on Friday and drove to the Capitol Creek TH to meet up with Cthulhu for a climb of Capitol Peak. Arrived at the TH shortly before 1:30 pm and was on the ditch trail shortly after 2:00.

FYI, I had heard stories about cattle on this trail. Needless to say, there were many "landmines" to be avoided along the way and the trail is getting pretty torn up, especially around the creek crossings.

The view of Capitol on the approach is both awe inspiring and humbling.

Arrived at the lake shortly after 5:00, set up camp, met Cthulhu and his wife and took more pictures of what lay ahead of us. The beauty of the basin was amazing.

The next morning, we left the comfort of our tents at 4:30 and started up the trail to the Mt. Daly / Capitol Saddle by 5:00. We marveled at how the full moon reflected perfectly on Capitol Lake for the entire ascent up to the saddle. It was breathtaking.

Once at the saddle, we considered our future. There is still plenty of snow on the standard route almost the entire way to K2. The only other way to avoid the snow is by taking the direct line on the 4th Class ridge to K2. Luckily for us, we had brought our crampons and ice axes and decided to tackle the standard approach.

Once past the snow, we ditched our crampons and headed toward the right side of K2. It is not necessary to climb to the top of K2 but we did anyway. The view of the remaining route from up there is worth the extra effort.

Next came the notorious knife edge which we both tackled using the "scooting" method. Whatever works, right ?

Side note: Elliojos (another 14ers.com member) had already summited and was heading back across the knife at that point. We watched him as he effortlessly "tightroped" the entire section (without the rope of course). Needless to say, Cthulhu and I were completely humbled by this demonstration. Our hats are off to you, Elliojos !

Once past the knife edge, we stayed left of the ridge and slowly ascended on small ledges and trail systems. The route finding at this point can be somewhat tricky. We took our time and looked for cairns. The last 100 feet below the summit, we decided to scramble straight up to the ridge instead of staying to the left. The rock was remarkably solid and made for a great alternative approach. Once on the ridge, we were able to walk casually to the summit and arrived shortly after 9:00 am. The weather was perfect. Not a cloud in the sky, so we soaked up the sun for a good hour before starting back.

The decent back to the knife edge took just as long as the ascent. I can see why it is critical to have good weather on this climb. Do not even attempt anything beyond K2 if the weather looks at all suspicious. This would be a really bad place to be in less than optimal conditions.

The snow that had been so hard that morning had completely softened up by the time we made it back to our gear at the start of the snowfield. Much to our surprise, we were able to enjoy a fun glissade / traverse back to the saddle. We eventually made it back to camp around 1:30 and took one last look at this magnificent peak.

Another side note: The wildflowers in the basin are simply indescribable right now.

Thanks again to Cthulhu for meeting up with me on this climb. It was a fantastic weekend, great company and an amazing mountain all rolled into one. Who could ask for anything more ?

Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Comments or Questions

uwe	Congrats! 7/22/2008 2:42am Nice pictures and report. A great climb.
centrifuge	love it! 7/22/2008 3:06am excellent photos and great beta!
centrifuge	oops 7/22/2008 3:08am i screwed up my vote, i meant to vote 5 stars but hit it too fast, i‘ll fix it
elliojos	Balance Guy 7/22/2008 1:41pm I‘m glad I had a witness! I think it‘s that slackline I set up in my backyard - it really helps to improve your balance. It was nice meeting you up there and keep me in mind for future endeavors. Cheers!
MtGoat14er	older Mountain goat 7/23/2008 5:27pm this is Duane, thanks for meeting and starting the hike up with me, sorry I am a bit slower, then I waited for the snow to warm up for my ski pole and boots, nice to meet such nice people on such a tough peak..I noticed that we could not sign the register, does this bother you guys as a matter of record ? Duane in Longmont...mtGoat14er@comcast.net...
Cthulhu 2008	FIVE STARS 9/26/2008 10:02pm Just now found this while brousing about trying to decide if I want to risk the weather for a finish on Crestone Peak this weekend or not. Great TR and it sure was nice climbing with you!

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