Peak(s):  Wetterhorn Peak  -  14,015 feet
Date Posted:  06/10/2007
Date Climbed:   06/03/2007
Author:  roozers42
 Wetterhorn Peak - southeast ridge  

After climbs of American Peak and Pt. 13,832, Scott and I drove to the Matterhorn Creek TH to relax for a day and wait for shanahan96, jamienellis, and skasgaard. They were climbing American Peak and Handies and wouldn't be to the campsite until later in the afternoon. We found a fantastic spot close to the turnoff from Engineer Pass and set up camp. Around 5pm, the gang arrived and was pretty darn giddy from the days climb. We talked, played some cards, and retired around 8.

The alarm went off at 3pm and this darn bear yelled a wake up call...that's a very bad bear! We got ready, drove up to the 2WD TH, and set off. It was a nice walk up the road and on the trail through the forest. We made our own way into the basin below Wetterhorn and made our route choices. Kiefer had opted for a climb of Matterhorn and Broken Hill, the Jamies went ahead with their plan to climb the east face of Wetterhorn, and Scott and I opted to climb a moderate snow slope up to the southeast ridge and do the standard route.

The Jamies on way to the basin below Wetterhorn

The east face

Our route up to the saddle

Once on the saddle, we found that the route was mostly clear of snow with the exception of the gullies in between rock ribs. We stayed much closer to the ridge crest and had to find our own creative ways to pass these obstacles.

A look at the lower part of the ridge:

Climbing up and over the ribs

We reached the prow a bit behind the Jamies and headed into the notch.

Terrain below the Prow

I dropped my pack at the slab (it was dry) and we worked our way up the summit pitch. The route was mostly dry, but there were definitely sections of ice, snow, and water. I didn't find that it made things much harder, but you had to pay close attention, especially on the downclimb. No pictures of this, I wasn't in "picture taking mode" until we were back down.

Me on the summit

Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

 Comments or Questions

02/05/2011 00:22
Pics! Looking forward to Wetterhorn! Thanks for sharing


Nice TR
11/30/2010 17:28
Great write-up, Jen! That was a fun day. I hear 'ya about not being in the picture taking frame of mind!
We'll have to do another climb together soon


wetterhorn fun
11/30/2010 17:28

that's a great trip report outside of those two goobers in your first photo! where do you find these people?


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