Peak(s):  Maroon Peak  -  14,156 feet
Date Posted:  06/05/2007
Date Climbed:   06/03/2007
Author:  summitridge
 Maroon Peak -- Southeast Couloir  

Old Ickabod and I headed out to the Trailhead on Saturday morning. After a nice three-hour drive, we parked and began the easy walk to the base of the garbage chute.



Looking at the garbage chute and the southeast couloir

We carved out a tent platform in the snow at 11, 200 feet and rested up for the next morning.

Not hearing either of our alarms, we got up an hour behind schedule and began climbing around 5:15 am. The snow up the chute was in great shape for crampons.


Old Ickabod heading up the garbage chute


Climbing above the garbage chute

We rested at the base of the souteast couloir and decided to put on our harnesses and head up the right couloir.


Heading up the right branch of the southeast couloir

I measured the couloir's slope several times and never found an angle above 48 degrees.


Here I am climbing up near the halfway point of the couloir where it begins to turn to the southwest.

To be sure there were steeper areas, but the main route up never exceeded this.


Old Ickabod near the saddle between point 13,753 and the summit ridge of Maroon Peak.

At the saddle, we climbed a short, easy section of rock and got back onto snow and ice on the southwestern side of Maroon.


Old Ickabod climbs the easy rock section from the saddle to gain the summit ridge of Maroon Peak.


Point 13,753

The route steepened significantly here.


Old Ickabod climbs the steeper section on the soutwest side of Maroon Peak's summit ridge.

I never felt comfortable enough to stop and measure the slope, so I am not sure of its angle. From our highest point, we just could not find a route that we felt safe attempting.


Our last and highest view. So close yet so far.

Compounding our challenges was the fact that the snow was softening up every minute, and the prospect of downclimbing the steepest sections with soft snow was not inviting. We decided to head back down. The mountain will be there for us again soon.

Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

 Comments or Questions

Very cool!
02/05/2011 00:22
That first pic is a great shot. I have never seen that shot of Maroon like that. Really cool. Way to go!


Smart Move
11/30/2010 17:28
It must've been tough, but turning around was probably a good idea.


Headin' back
06/09/2007 21:34
Thanks for the support. It was pretty tough, but we are headed back out there on Tuesday to hopefully complete the summit attempt.

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