Peak(s):  Meeker, Mt  -  13,911 feet
Date Posted:  03/12/2007
Modified:  03/13/2007
Date Climbed:   03/03/2007
Author:  Bixley

 Mount Meeker - South Ridge  

The plan was a winter summit of Mount Meeker via the south ridge. Fellow user Dave, dswink username, and I arrived at the Wild Basin trailhead at 6:15 am and set out on course. The trip itinerary was to follow the Sandbeach Lake trail to Sandbeach Lake, cut north to Meeker Meadows, climb to Dragon's Egg Rock, then onto the southeast ridge to the summit.

While gathering beta for the trip we received several reports that Hunter's Creek is the best place to cut off of the Sandbeach Lake Trail to get to Meeker Meadows; waiting to break off trail until Sandbeach Lake only adds unnecessary distance to the trip. However, given the winter conditions, waiting to turn off until a bend just before Sandbeach Lake was the best option because it offers the least amount of bushwhacking compared with the Hunter's Creek turnoff. In the winter this option is well worth the extra mileage.

Dave and I hiked the Sandbeach Lake trail the week prior to our Meeker attempt. The scouting trip found the trail well groomed and easily navigable. With a leisurely approach in mind, we planned to arrive at the Sandbeach Lake turnoff by 8 AM. Unfortunately, on the day of our summit attempt there was a fresh six inches of powder covering the previously straightforward trail.

We quickly decided to abandon the time consuming task of maintaining course on the obscured trail and deferred to a clearer route along the trails upper ridge. Breaking the fresh snow added time to our approach and we arrived at the Hunter's Creek junction at 8:40. Pressing on towards the lake, we came to our turnoff point roughly thirty minutes later. Time for some bushwhacking.


A tributary creek runs south from Meeker Meadows for half a mile before connecting with the southeast flowing Hunter's Creek. Intent to follow the water system up to the meadows, we took a bearing on the summit and trudged along the creek through the deep, off-trail snow.

We entered the south side of Meeker Meadows at 11:20.

Crossing the meadows brought us to timberline twenty minutes later. Shortly after removing our snowshoes and beginning the ascent to the Dragon's Egg I looked up to see dswink standing less than six feet away from a group of three ptarmigans. In spite of my alert, it still took Dave a few seconds to recognize the well camouflaged creatures.


To our chagrin, the boulder-strewn slope of Meeker's south face held two to three feet of unconsolidated powder amongst its slippery rocks, effectively disqualifying our plan for a crampon-assisted ascent. In order to keep our shoes as dry as possible we boulder-hopped our way up the hill, grateful for the agility of our trail runners.

Later on along the slope, at about 1:00, we noticed a few storm clouds to the south above nearby Mount Copeland marring the otherwise clear sky.


Subsequently, at 2:00, we were twenty minutes below the Dragon's Egg, where it became clear we would not be able to summit.


Our original turn around time of 3:00 was closing in and the apex was still, by generous calculation, a two hour climb away. On top of that, the storm clouds to the south were further developing into a healthy a snow storm.

While climbing to the egg Dave and I considered an alternate route back to our cars. Meeker Ridge proved tempting as it was completely windblown and free of snow. We settled on a return trip of cutting over to the ridge and following it as far east as possible.

Due to the southward storm wind speeds were increasing, up to thirty miles per hour, and snow was filing into the surrounding couloirs. Also, as we climbed higher the snow pack below the top layer of powder became progressively icy and hard, presenting a moderate danger of slab avalanche. Standing below the egg, we spotted a safe rock path across the east couloir and began climbing up to it. The wind had other ideas. By the time we reached our path more snow had blown in and covered it up.

Spotting another path to cross on, we down climbed aside the couloir only to have it become covered up as well. Slightly annoyed at this point, we abandoned the ridge idea and focused on simply getting back to tree line before any real danger presented itself. Now climbing up, nearly to the original altitude of our turn around point, we reached a safe, uncovered path across the west couloir. Plunge stepping our way down, we made it back to the safety of Meeker Meadows at 5:30. All the up and down had me feeling a bit like a yo-yo.

We took a break at the base of the Meadows to gear up for the return trip and hiked back to the trailhead using our approach tracks – suprisingly not blown over – in conjunction with the trackback function of my GPS.

We arrived at the parking lot at 9:15 PM. Overall, the winter hike constituted fifteen hours, thirteen miles, and four thousand vertical feet.

We're planning a reattempt of Mount Meeker on Saturday, March 17th. This time we plan to camp at Meeker Meadows before attempting the summit in order to afford some extra time. Anybody interested in joining us is welcome. Stay posted for results!

Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

 Comments or Questions

Nice try guys!
02/05/2011 00:22
Good luck on your upcoming attempt. It doesn't look like much if any snow is in the forecast so you should have a nice broken trail until you turn off for Meeker. Maybe the predicted high winds mid-week will help you out above treeline this time too.

I have one question though - do you guys really do a hike like this in TRAILRUNNERS in winter? How does that work out?

Good luck!


Trailrunners in the winter? Are you crazy!
11/30/2010 17:28
Thanks for the encouragment. The weather this week has me feeling very optimistic about the hike. I couldn't ask for better conditions.

I know it sounds nuts, but yes -- we wore trailrunners for the entire hike. Dave turned me onto the idea after he encountered a Himalayan women hiking the Mexican volcanoes in just trailrunners. Snowshoes strap in just fine and the right kind of crampons work with them as well. It's a great concept that makes even the most extreme lightweighters proud. I've even heard of people thru-hiking the Pacific Crest Trail with just sandals using the concept.

As far as warmth is concerned, because of improved circulation, it actually keeps my feet warmer than my big bulky mountaineering boots. First, you must wear a smartwool sock with the shoes. The smartwools wicking ability will help to push the moisture out of your shoe. I also wear a thin polypropelene biker sock under the smartwool, but that's to prevent blisters.

The important thing is that the shoes cannot be waterproof. No Gore-tex in the liner, no water-proofing treatment, and so forth. The idea does not work otherwise because the moisture will have nowhere to go; waterproofing works both ways.

My feet do get wet by the end of the day but the smart wool sock combined with the great circulation still keeps my feet nice and toasty. I was shocked initially at how warm my soaked feet stayed while sloshing around in three feet of powder, with gaiters on of course. If you're doing an overnighter just sleep with the shoes in your sleeping bag to dry them off for the next day.

I used to have a lot of problems with my feet getting cold. Even in my gore-tex lined, stiff, Asolo mountaineering boots. I still have to wear those boots on vertical ice, but I've been pleasantly surprised by this trailrunner concept.

If you're feeling apprehensive about it, like I was, just pack your regular boots in your pack for reassurance. Overall, wearing the trailrunners increases your weight by only a pound or so. When you finally wean off the need to carry the big bulky boots you could shed as much as six pounds off your weight!

The idea certainly has its limits -- I won't try Rainier this summer in just trailrunners -- but to me this is one more example of manufacturing companies convincing us to shell out big money for things we don't actually need. Go light, go fast.

   Using your forum id/password. Not registered? Click Here

Caution: The information contained in this report may not be accurate and should not be the only resource used in preparation for your climb. Failure to have the necessary experience, physical conditioning, supplies or equipment can result in injury or death. and the author(s) of this report provide no warranties, either express or implied, that the information provided is accurate or reliable. By using the information provided, you agree to indemnify and hold harmless and the report author(s) with respect to any claims and demands against them, including any attorney fees and expenses. Please read the Safety and Disclaimer pages for more information.

© 2017®, 14ers Inc.