Peak(s):  Little Bear Peak  -  14,037 feet
Date Posted:  07/31/2006
Date Climbed:   07/30/2006
Author:  chrisjferraro
 Little Bear: Hourglass  

On Sunday morning we planned to wake up at 430 and head for little bear‘s NW face by 5. I woke up from a crazy dream at 400 and heard an animal in my vestibule. The little fella had chewed through my pack and helped himself to my PB&J. Well I didnt get back to sleep, and we were soon up and ready to go. We hit the trail at 500. Unfortunately we saw that the cloud that had been hanging around LB‘s summit was still lingering (in small amount). We decided it would be better to hit the Hourglass route as we didnt want to be stuck in a cloud on the face. We were the first ones up the initial gully to the ridge, and climbed the semi solid right side to the ridge where we followed Bill‘s route to the base of the Hourglass. The route was well cairned. We quickly ascended the narrow gully to the rock anchor. There was some wet, slippery, steep rock on the left side of the gully below the anchor that was interesting to climb and the crux for me. This area was short (10-15‘), but I didnt see a way to avoid it. From the rock anchor, we climbed left up a ways then right across the wide gully to a rock rib. We ascended over this rib just up from a small fin in the rib (there was a cairn here). We then traversed another gully and headed up a 3rd gully to the summit on a well cairned trail. We summited at 720, the first people to the top. It was a nice day and we hung out unitl 745. About half way down the upper gully we ran into another group about to cross over to the middle to ascend to the summit. Since we were heading to our right, and they to theirs, we decided we could both continue without rock fall danger. We agreed to wait above the Hourglass for about 10 mins once we arrived to give them plenty of time to summit. Once we had waited above the hourglass for a little while, and were just about to head down, we realized that there was another crew that had just started ascending. We still had some loose stuff between us and the top of the solid hourglass, so we decided to wait for them to ascend before descending any farther. Once they reached us, they agreed to wait for us to descend before ascending any further. We quickly repelled down the blue rope and soon exited the hourglass unscathed. The traverse to the gully was uneventful as was the descent of the gully. Once down we angled to our left across and down the boulder field to what looked like an easier exit. It was, and we headed across the creek and met back up with the road. We were back to camp by 1025, and left camp at 1115. We reached the car 5 miles down the road at 105p. It was a great day to climb Little Bear and the weather was very nice.

The route on littlebear isn't too difficult, the wet rock in the Hourglass is tricky, but beyond that you only need to know what you are doing/ where you are going and step lightly as to not kick any rock down into the gully below. We had a great time.


Ascent: 2:20
Descent: 2:40
To car: 1:50

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