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Peak(s)  "South Little Bear"  -  14,028 feet
Little Bear Peak  -  14,041 feet
Date Posted  08/14/2022
Modified  07/16/2025
Date Climbed   08/10/2022
Author  dbolton
Additional Members   ronbco
 Some beta on Little Bear SW Ridge   

My dad and I attempted to climb Little Bear via the SW ridge. We made it to the sub-summit "South Little Bear" aka Mama Bear before turning around. I can't speak about the final traverse to the true summit, but up to the south summit this route is quite safe (relatively speaking). I wanted to add a short report mainly to share our GPX for the bushwhacking approach through the forest, in case it's helpful for a future climber.

We left Longmont at around 10am and arrived at around 2:30pm Lake Como Rd in my stock 4wd 1990 Toyota Pickup. A bumpy ride, but not hard to drive to around 8,800 ft where there is tons of parking. The TR by Wentzl was very helpful in identifying the start of the bushwhack, so I'll just refer folks to that report.

21821_01
Start of Lake Como Rd. It gets really bumpy quickly, but wasn't a problem in our 4wd truck to get to 8,800 ft where
we parked.

The bushwhack through the pinon pines wasn't bad at all until you get near Tobin Creek, where it gets a bit thicker. There are remains of old "roads" you can try to follow through the forest. We lost the thread of the roads in the middle, where you go up and down across several dry drainages. The road becomes easier to follow once you get past these drainages. I think on our hike back to the truck two days later we came pretty close to the ideal line, albeit with a few minor mistakes, so I've included that gpx below. The portions of this gpx at the beginning and the end should be especially helpful - we definitely intersected Lake Como Rd at the correct place and I think we found a great place to cross Tobin Creek, right below the waterfall.

21821_02
We camped just a hundred feet or so downstream of the waterfall. We cleared out a nice flat area on the east side
of the creek at around 9400 ft
21821_11
There was an interesting abandoned hammock with a cured elk pelt in it... not sure what to make of it!?

After a very pleasant night sleeping under the stars we got up just before 5 and starting hiking just before 6. There's not really any beta needed, just follow the ridge for an eternity until you reach the summit. My dad wrote up his thoughts in a separate report. I'd agree that the route feels much longer than it is. There are only a few short pitches of class 3, so the climbing is not difficult. I'd say none of the moves are as hard as, say, the boulder move at the top of the trough on Longs. However, there is a good amount of exposure at the end of the route. The exposure on the climber's left (to the north) is extreme (similar to Chiefs Head in the park) for the entire last mile or so of the ridge, but the exposure to the climber's right (south) is usually not bad. This makes it feel manageable. There are few moments when the exposure to the right does build (up to maybe 15-20 ft?). For those brief sections, the ridge reminded me of how I felt on the El Diente/Wilson traverse. To be clear, LB's SW ridge is much easier than the El D/Wilson traverse, but the exposure felt similar in some brief places. It's a different kind of exposure than the Longs narrows because you have a drop on both sides of you. To be honest, it was just plain fun!

21821_03
Lots of cool old bristlecone pines on the route!
21821_04
The W face of LB from halfway up the SW ridge. True summit on the left, south summit right of center. Awesome
view and kind of insane to think that the standard LB route goes up the dark gully right below the true summit!
21821_05
Pretty butterfly seen on the ridge.
21821_06
Dad scrambling on our ascent. The knife edge is still upcoming.
21821_07
Dad working on the crux knife edge. He ended up holding on to the top and scootching over the bulge with his
feet on the slab and his belly on the bulge. I went below the bulge, using some cracks for hands/feet, and went
straight across the slab. Either way is fine. It's fun!
21821_08
The knife edge again on the descent. Dad is downclimbing to a stance used to prepare for the crossing the slab.
This time we both took my original cracks/friction option straight across the slab, below the crest.
21821_09
The traverse over to the true summit, which we did not attempt on this outing.
21821_10
Lake Como on the right. Little Bear lake on the left. The W ridge in the middle. The SW ridge on the left (out of
the picture).

We reached the summit of South Little Bear after a bit more enjoyable scrambling. Dad didn't have enough gas to traverse over to the true summit, so we turned back. What a wimp! Haha, just kidding!! It says something about my dad that, at 64 years old, he's one of only 2 or 3 people I know that could do a big outing like this. Our partnership exploring the mountains of Colorado together over the past 30 years is one of my greatest treasures in life.

The route down is, of course, terrible. Endless talus. At one point, after what already felt like an eternity of descending talus, I looked down and saw that we were still at 13,300 ft. Good times. My only other route note is to be careful when you get back into the trees to stay near the ridge crest, in order to minimize wasted effort, but to remember that there is also a bump on the ridge about 6-800 ft above the falls that is best skirted by going to the east (descender's left).

One option that could be considered is camping higher on the SW ridge. I marked the coords of a great campsite at about 10,400 ft: 37.546824 deg N, 105.532317 deg W. On the plus side, your summit day will be a lot easier. On the minus side, you'd have to carry your heavy pack (including lots of water) up the steep start of the SW ridge. To be clear, Tobin Creek is the only water on the route.

In summary, the SW ridge is a perfectly viable alternative to the hourglass route. I haven't done the hourglass, but I can confirm that the SW ridge route has almost no rockfall danger to it, and has some fun scrambling at the top. Now that I know the way through the forest, I think that if I try it again I'll just do it as a single push, starting before sunrise from a camp at 8,800 on Lake Como Rd.


My GPS Tracks on Google Maps (made from a .GPX file upload):




Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11


Comments or Questions
CaptainSuburbia
User
LB sw ridge
8/15/2022 7:54am
Nice write up for a great route!


ndomke
User
GPX
8/19/2022 9:39am
Thank you for the GPX route through the forest to Tobin Creek. Great trip write up - I was able to do the route starting at about 8,000 on the Como road. A fun alternative to the hour glass if you are doing it in a day hike from the road.


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