Peak(s):  El Diente Peak  -  14,159 feet
Mt. Wilson  -  14,246 feet
Wilson Peak  -  14,017 feet
Date Posted:  06/29/2020
Modified:  09/14/2020
Date Climbed:   06/28/2020
Author:  rudyking69
 El Diente, Mt Wilson and Wilson peak one day   

Started from kilpacker trail head at 3:00am to the El Diente south route use microspikes once or twice to cross small snow patches near the top made it to the summit by 7:00am only spend a couple minutes and jumped into the traverse all the information I gathered here helped immensely as we didn't get lost once and stayed right on the route lots of exposure in some areas like the Narrows, and lots of class 3 and class 4 moves but rock stable and solid. Made it to Mt Wilson at 9 am took a 5 minute break as we contemplated what me and climbing partner had talked about of traversing to Wilson Peak as well, it looked very far and very intimidating, but we had weather and time on our side and decided to give it a try. Went down the North route of Mt Wilson to about halfway and traverse below Galdstone peak to its north ridge connecting to Wilson peak traverse below the ridge was very unstable rock I released by mistake a couple big chunks of rock super sketchy terrain eventually we made it to the ridge and rock was more stable but super exposed and many class 3 and 4 moves and no trail or any info to follow because there is none here or anywhere we stayed on ridge as much as possible this was definitely tougher than the el diente/mt wilson traverse. We finally jointed the SW route of Wilson peak and summit this one at 12:20pm spend 10 minutes here and absorbed everything we had just done and starting heading down as weather was turning. Went down the Navajo basin route and at the end crossover to kilpacker trailhead where my car was at 4:00pm.

YouTube video

Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
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Comments or Questions

Nice work!
06/29/2020 15:40
Kudos to you and your climbing partner.

06/29/2020 20:08
Great job on all three. Thanks for info re ridge from Mt. Wilson past Gladstone. Heading into Kilpacker Basin in 14 days. Thanks.

07/02/2020 15:57
@cattoes Thank you!

Good luck
07/02/2020 15:59
@wmbii Thanks!! good luck to you out there, take your time test every rock


07/04/2020 15:48
Thanks for this brief report and some cool photos.

I'm headed down to do the Wilson Group July 12, but still haven't decided how to tackle them. Probably not all three in one day, but thinking of coming in via Rock of Ages, climbing the Peak, camping in Navajo Basin, then doing Wilson+traverse+El Diente, or possibly, Wilson and Diente separately. I know I would enjoy the traverse, but I don't care to be caught up there in a lightning storm!


07/06/2020 16:37
Thanks for the beta, will be heading there July 11/12; not going to attempt the Mt. Wilson to Wilson Peak traverse, but kudos to you for getting it done, especially in 1 day!

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