Peak(s):  Wilson Peak  -  14,017 feet
Date Posted:  06/21/2020
Date Climbed:   06/21/2020
Author:  SpringsDuke
 #52 Wilson Peak   

#52 Wilson Peak

The creek crossing on the 4wd road to the Rock of Ages Trail head. This is a fun 4wd road as its 8 miles but 3 of those are graded and smooth and the rest is pretty fun in the truck.

Trail Head

Camped near the trail head for an early start. Meet a cool couple from Denver and ended up camping and climbing with them.

Basin opens up with Wilson Peak on the left. Rock of Ages saddle is the goal and its the saddle in the middle of the photo.

Couple snow fields to cross. We put on micro spikes about 10 or 11 times throughout the whole day. Cross a field, take em off, hike up to another field put em back on.

Have the ice axe and some traction.

Early morning greeting by a goat or a llama looking goat? This is the only time we saw him and he disappeared.

Leave the road on this snowfield and find the trail up to the last of the snowfields which is the long one in the top right corner in the sun. You dont have to touch the snow in the shadows.

On the last snowfield headed to Rock of Ages saddle. This snowfield is most steep and doesnt save time to glissade. You just have to have traction and move carefully on the snow trail.

On the Rock of Ages saddle. Left the snow tools here as no more need for them from here to summit.

Aimed for the saddle above the rock that looks like its hanging ten to gain the other side of the mountain.

Wilson Peak in view on the other side of the ridge. Cross some ledges which involves hands on climbing and route finding the trail to the ridge.

On the faint trail making the ridge and looking back at the saddle we came from. Cairns are scarce so its easy to lose the trail for a second and gain it back.

Looking up at the false summit. You go below the snow in this photo. Shoes may get wet but no snow climbing needed.

View of the climb up the false summit. Poor lighting in this photo buts its easy to gain on the wide trail to the left. A little loose is all but easy to see the line.

On top of the false summit first view of the final climb up Wilson Peak.

Another view. Was a little harder to find the line from the false summit to the true summit. Down climb and find a few cairns till you reach the gully that is deepest and has the darker rock, and climb up it to the ridge.

Gain the ridge again and its an easy dirt and lose rock trail to the summit.

Summit Views. Mt Wilson and El Diente

Telluride and Mt Sneffels. Perfect day on the summit. Almost no wind and easily 55 degrees or hotter. Easy to spend time up here on this day!

Leaving the summit and starting to down climb to the gully.

Looking back at the gully down climb from the summit. You can see a climber in red down climbing. He is at the bottom of the correct gully to go up and starting to traverse over to the false summit.

Off the false summit looking down towards the saddle

On the faint trail looking back at Wilson Peak. The one on the Coors can apparently. Youd think I would have known before today.

On the saddle looking back at the summit one last time from this side of the ridge.

You can see Rock of Ages saddle down in the middle of the photo but we still have to get to the other side of the ridge. Up to the right in this photo you can see hanging ten rock from earlier. From there we just go back down the step snow fields. They are a little better now that they have had some sun. You can glisade some if it but it seems faster to just put on micro spikes and follow the trail out.

Rock of Ages for a reason. Not too bad on the feet if you wear good shoes/boots.

Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
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Comments or Questions

06/22/2020 20:29
I thought there was no camping at the TH though?

06/22/2020 21:28
Wasn't at the trail head I was around the corner. Your moving fast right now on your journey I see. If our schedules line up and you want a partner on one like Pyramid, Wilson/El Diente, or Capitol let me know.


06/25/2020 10:30
Thanks for the report. I am climbing the Wilson group in a couple weeks. How long did it take from TH to TH? What time did you head out?

Nice report
06/25/2020 21:46
Thanks for this report, and all of the pictures. I am heading here within the next month.

Hike Time
06/30/2020 23:55
Started at roughly 6am finished at 2pm. I was hiking with a group of 3. Hope that helps!

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