Peak(s):  Little Bear Peak  -  14,037 feet
Date Posted:  09/06/2019
Date Climbed:   09/03/2019
Author:  tygr
 Little Bear - Day After Labor Day 2019   

Little Bear - Day After Labor Day 2019

Having arrived at Lake Como on Sunday, September 1, 2019 and after climbing Blanca on Monday, Sept 2, we decided to tackle Little Bear on Tuesday, September 3rd. We had hoped that the Labor Day weekend crowd would have packed up and left us more or less alone to tackle Little Bear. I had heard alot about the rockfall dangers of Little Bear so we figured Tuesday would be a great day to try it and we were right.

The weather was perfect and it had been dry for days so all systems were go for this attempt.

19790_06.jpgView of Little Bear from across lake Como.

The gully to get to the ridge was very loose, but having treking poles really helped. I suppose having micro spikes would have been great too (unfortunately I didn't have them).

19790_05.jpgView from the top of the gully looking back at lake Como.

From the gully to the hourglass I got off track. I kindof went lateral right from the gully and was essentially scrabling for a quarter mile or so vs if I had got up to the ridge looking for carins I would have been fine (the return trip was on the actual trail along the ridge but it wouldn't be a climb for me if I didn't go off trail)!

As I came to the hourglass there was one guy (Travis) who had just come off the summit and was finishing his descent of the hourglass. I asked if there was anyone else still up there and he said "no"...perfect! That made me feel better about being less likely the victim of rockfall. So...I proceeded up the hourglass. It was dry and solid. Lots of fun. The previous year I had climbed Pyramid and had been asking alot of folks here how the hourglass compared to the "green wall" on pyramid. Most said they thought Pyramid's "Green Wall" was steeper and they were right...though I must say, the Hour Glass scared the heck out of me. Clearly any rock that fell was going to get funnelled down right through that narrow neck. I was really more concerned that I would be knocking rocks down on others below me. I had met Monti and Cameron the previous day climbing Blanca and I knew they were a bit behind me on Little Bear that day and I was really worried they might catch a rock from me....thankfully that did not happen (btw...thanks for the ride out on Wednesday saved us!)

19790_01.jpgLooking up the hourglass!

As mentioned, the hourglass was great...very solid and a fun climb, but once past the last rope anchor, the terrain became less steep but much more loose. I proceeded up this next section with caution. I stayed right as it seemed to have less loose rock. I hit the summit ridge and made it. WOW...what a mountain!

9 minute video of the entire Little Bear climb (enjoy)!

19790_03.jpgView from the summit of Little Bear looking down at Lake Como.

19790_04.jpgView of the Little Bear / Blanca Traverse. I'm coming back some day to do that...looks like it would be AWESOME!!!

19790_02.jpgMe at the summit of Little Bear with Blanca and the Traverse in the background.

Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
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Comments or Questions

Way to go!
09/07/2019 08:33
Well done. That one has my attention and might be coming up next year.

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