Download Agreement, Release, and Acknowledgement of Risk:
You (the person requesting this file download) fully understand mountain climbing ("Activity") involves risks and dangers of serious bodily injury, including permanent disability, paralysis, and death ("Risks") and you fully accept and assume all such risks and all responsibility for losses, costs, and damages you incur as a result of your participation in this Activity.
You acknowledge that information in the file you have chosen to download may not be accurate and may contain errors. You agree to assume all risks when using this information and agree to release and discharge 14ers.com, 14ers Inc. and the author(s) of such information (collectively, the "Released Parties").
You hereby discharge the Released Parties from all damages, actions, claims and liabilities of any nature, specifically including, but not limited to, damages, actions, claims and liabilities arising from or related to the negligence of the Released Parties. You further agree to indemnify, hold harmless and defend 14ers.com, 14ers Inc. and each of the other Released Parties from and against any loss, damage, liability and expense, including costs and attorney fees, incurred by 14ers.com, 14ers Inc. or any of the other Released Parties as a result of you using information provided on the 14ers.com or 14ers Inc. websites.
You have read this agreement, fully understand its terms and intend it to be a complete and unconditional release of all liability to the greatest extent allowed by law and agree that if any portion of this agreement is held to be invalid the balance, notwithstanding, shall continue in full force and effect.
By clicking "OK" you agree to these terms. If you DO NOT agree, click "Cancel"...
I had a couple of orphan tricentennial peaks (Mears Peak and T5) in the San Juans that I'd originally planned to climb in 2016. It only took three years, but I finally had an opportunity to work them into a brief trip. For Mears Peak, I decided on an unconventional approach from the Blue Lakes trailhead, where I had no trouble finding a nice place to camp.
Thursday, Aug. 8, 2019. The 3.3 miles to Blue Lakes went quickly on a nice trail.
Some snow near the Blue Lakes Trail where an avalanche had come down
The Blue Lakes Trail offers some nice scenery
I left the trail and climbed west through the trees toward the S3 - S5 saddle.
Ascending toward the S3 - S5 saddle that allows access to the basin south of S6 and Mears Peak
When I was here in 2016, there was no snow near the S3 - S5 saddle. This time, traction and an ice axe were necessary to reach the saddle.
The S3 - S5 saddle is the low point just left of center, with a steep snowfield just below the saddle
Once at the saddle, I dropped down into the basin south of S6 and Mears Peak. Others have reported climbing to Mear's ridge west of the summit, but I saw an obvious route to the summit's east (right in the photo below). The route involved a fair amount of loose rock, but not so much that any colorful metaphors were spoken.
Mears Peak from below the S3 - S5 saddle
Looking west on the ridge toward Mears' summit
Almost to the summit of Mears Peak. with the summit cairn visible
Not a lot of signatures in the summit register in 2019
After a quick lunch, I headed back the way I'd come. This was a tiring day due to having to go over the S3 - S5 saddle twice. Next up: T5 near Yankee Boy Basin.
Friday, Aug. 9. I found a convenient campsite along the road to Yankee Boy Basin and, knowing that T5 was a relatively short climb, didn't even bother setting an alarm. After lazily getting up much later than usual, I intended to drive to about 12,040' in Governor Basin. A snowfield across the road at 11,940' had other ideas.
I'm not driving across that...
...so I turned around and parked
I hiked up the road until an obstacle blocked my path.
The obstacle in the road. As it turns out, no "moving machinery" was found
The finger of snow angling to the left in the center of the photo allows access to an upper basin north of T5
Near the top of the finger of snow, the upper basin below T5 began to come into view. T5's summit is out of view to the far left
Looking down toward Governor Basin from the same location as the previous photo
I headed toward the T5 - Mendota Peak saddle and climbed a bit higher until I got the following view that made me wonder if summer is ever coming to this basin in 2019.
The low point right of center is the T5 - Mendota Peak saddle, and that's where I headed
The gendarmes on the ridge are nothing to worry about, as they are easily bypassed on obvious paths on the south side of the ridge.
Near the saddle; anyone have any idea what its purpose might have been?
This is not T5's summit but is just a 13,337' bump on the ridge
A prospect hole below the 13,337' ridge point
Nearing the top of the 13,337' ridge point. Don't let the cairn get your hopes up!
T5 from the 13,337' ridge point. It's an easy walk on rock and tundra
The unremarkable summit of T5 did not have a summit register
I returned to my car, only slightly disappointed that I didn't see any moving machinery all day.
Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
I'm not sure, but I think the route for the Hardrock 100 race goes through that notch. In years that there is snow in that basin, I was told that a fixed rope is set up there to help the runners to get up or down that snow slope. I think that there might also be an aid station somewhere around there as well. (I obviously have never done the race.)
Caution: The information contained in this report may not be accurate and should not be the only resource used in preparation for your climb. Failure to have the necessary experience, physical conditioning, supplies or equipment can result in injury or death. 14ers.com and the author(s) of this report provide no warranties, either express or implied, that the information provided is accurate or reliable. By using the information provided, you agree to indemnify and hold harmless 14ers.com and the report author(s) with respect to any claims and demands against them, including any attorney fees and expenses. Please read the 14ers.com Safety and Disclaimer pages for more information.
