OTHER Trip Report 09/13/2016

Peak(s):	Gran Paradiso - 13325
Date Posted:	09/13/2016
Date Climbed:	08/14/2016
Author:	Fr3ako

Gran Paradiso: A classic Italian Alps climb
When I sold my Jeep Cherokee back in Denver last year for half the price I bought it 1 year before, I was heartbroken but I didn't have a choice. I knew this money would help me buying a new car in Europe to be fully mobile. As the oil crisis lasts longer than expected around the world and prevents me from doing the job I'm good at, I decided to do any job I could in a place I like. So why not moving from the west coast of France, where I'm getting bored as beautiful as it is, to the French Alps. Bought a new tent, packed my gear and few clothes in my car and here I'm on the road driving across France from West to East near the Switzerland border, 10 hours drive. August 13-14 2016 General weather: Pleasantly warm with slight breeze to warm Route: Day 1 - Pont Greuil to Refuge Vittorio Emanuele Day 2 - Refuge up to Gran Paradiso down to Pont Greuil Stats: ~4.68 km up to refuge + 9.06 km to summit & down to refuge + 4.65 km down to parking lot Ascent: 2454 ft + 4383 ft vert up/ Highest point: 13,325' All related data can be found HERE After a week near poshy Chamonix, I found a job in Sallanches - 15 miles down the valley to build skis for Dynastar, Rossignol group. I skied twice in my life in Beaver Creek & Winterpark, I was ill at the time and couldn't stay the whole day of training so I can barely stand on skis but it's something that always appealed to me being a former "limited" skateboarder. Anyway...it gives me some work and money during the week and a good location to fulfill my hiking addiction during weekends. At least for a while. Hiking season usually ends mid September over here and I'm already quite late in the season. I first aimed at one of the easiest 4000m that can be climbed without rope, without too many crevasses on the glacier because I'm solo, which is never a good idea how good you are when you are in this area. It's also a good introduction back to the Alps. Even though I lived the first 25 years of my life in France, I just climbed Mt Blanc back in 2011 through the Tete Rousse-Gouter and don't know much about the Alps. So I thought lets take it easy going forward. The game here is not peaks above 14,000 ft but more between 4000m (13,125') & 4807m (15,770'). They count between 50 to 82 peaks depending on classification.... 4000m peaks in the Alps are a different beast than hiking Colorado 14ers even in summer. There are glaciers to cross in almost every peak and crevasses are widespread more or less intensively. Crampons, ice axe and ropes are a must for almost 95% of the peaks. Just when I type that, 3 guys died on the 3 Mont Route up to Mt Blanc, a serac fall on Mt Maudit... Anyway, Gran Paradiso seemed to be the logical choice as being considered one of the easiest 4000m peak in the Alps especially from Refuge Emanuele. I called on the Wednesday before for a night on the Saturday and was surprised there was still availability at such short notice especially in the middle of the season. There is another refuge from where you can start and is supposedly a much nicer refuge/route - Chabod Refuge - but the route is supposedly more prone to crevasses. May be later. It also is around 2hrs drive from where I'm based right now - not counting the 1 hour delay to cross the Mont Blanc tunnel. I left my tent at 9.30am to cross the Italian border and arrived at Pont Greuil around lunch time. It is supposed to be a 2.5 hours hike from the parking lot to the refuge so didn't want to arrive too late in case it's very busy. First come, first chose his bed! On the way up the refuge Vittorio Emanuele, looking down to the parking lot in Pont Breuil First view if the Ciarforon and Becca do Monciair First view of the refuge in less than 2 hours Took me 1.45hr from the parking lot to the refuge at a steady pace along the many switchbacks and reached the refuge around 2.30pm. Chill out for the rest of the afternoon. I usually switch between 3 pairs of shoes - Asolo for middle mountain like summer-Autumn 14ers, Meindl Air for when crampons are required and plastic Spantik for higher stuff. Never used my Meindle since my Mt Blanc ascent and decided not to carry another pair of boots. Wearing them from the parking lot to the refuge got me blisters on my heels in less than 2 hours! Great! There is a small lake with views on Le Ciarforon (3642m - 11,950') and Becca do Monciair (3544m - 11,627') just next to the refuge so people were sunbathing or even swimming into the cold pond. Nice pond nearby to relax during the warm afternoon The half pension - night, dinner, breakfast was 35 Euro for a dinner start at 7pm. I was allocated a table with 2 other climbers from Scotland. As I lived there for few years, we bounded very quickly and had fun during the copious dinner even though quality was not at its best but to be honest, it fills you up and it's what matters. Refuge was not bad and I managed to get few hours sleep before waking up just at 4.15am. Breakfast in any refuge can be summed up by a slice of bread and a tiny jam box with a crappy tea or coffee, the usual suspects. I'm not that hungry in the morning but you still need to get some stuff in your stomach before a big day. I departed from the refuge just before 5am following the numerous lights in front of me. The first hour is a steady rocky path. There are cairns everywhere so I tried to follow them but quickly realized that they were really everywhere. Difficult in the dark to know which ones are the ones to follow and got off track quite a few times. Start of the climb around 5am, trying to follow the lights After an hour or so on the rocky path, snow patches become more and more persistent and a big snow field indicates it's time to wear crampons until the summit. Snow section starts and all parties put their crampons and ropes on Sunrise on the Bernese Alps looking down the valley The slope is not very steep apart from few sections here and there but the main danger is the ice. On several prolonged occasions, you really need to mark your steps not to slip down. Ice axe is of great use and a rope can give you peace of mind. The other danger was the number of people, exhausted on the path, not moving. You need to get out of the already marked trail and passed through additional icy sections. I was not the only one asking them to step aside from the trail for a break but they seem not to understand any English, French or Italian. I think we were almost 100 people on the mountain that day. Crampons are a must and few people were slipping Icy sections were pretty common and great care needed to be taken Always good to wake up early! View west down the valley Steady slope throughout the climb Where the route from Chabod refuge joins the normal route The dome before reaching the gendarme I was not the only one to get the idea of climbing Gran Paradiso that day... Final section before reaching the gendarme and then the ridge Break just below the gendarme looking back west Small crevasse before reaching the ridge False summit in view with the Madonna standing high Looking back to the final section from the ridge Looking down the Ciarforon It was hot even at the summit, perfect weather to climb The Madonna at the false summit Ridge from false summit to real summit, some pretty exposed moves East view from the summit North view from the summit The summit was reached in 4 hours from the refuge but we had to wait for more than 30 minutes just before the false summit due to the number of people. That was quite frankly ridiculous. The path is quite narrow but with people all being roped, it took ages for parties to free the space. I can't even imagine how it should be on a mountain like Everest where you sometimes have to queue for hours... People trying to get down before the next wave of hikers Time to get down Snow was becoming slushy with the high temperatures Be careful on the icy sections Afternoon view of the boulder field just before the snow field View of the mountains before arriving back at the refuge Time to run down the parking lot after a good omelette at the refuge Overall a nice climb that is often used as an acclimatisation trip before climbing Mt Blanc. It's a good mountain to practice your crampons and ropes skills, the slope is not too steep and it makes a 7-8 hours long trip but not too taxing if you walk at a steady pace. The experience is much better when the number of people is limited but don't expect it during the summer season. This is where non experienced climbers can experience climbing a 4000m peak in the Alps so it's a good trip for any beginner. My GPS Tracks on Google Maps (made from a .GPX file upload): Login required to view this map... Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Gran Paradiso: A classic Italian Alps climb

When I sold my Jeep Cherokee back in Denver last year for half the price I bought it 1 year before, I was heartbroken but I didn't have a choice. I knew this money would help me buying a new car in Europe to be fully mobile. As the oil crisis lasts longer than expected around the world and prevents me from doing the job I'm good at, I decided to do any job I could in a place I like. So why not moving from the west coast of France, where I'm getting bored as beautiful as it is, to the French Alps.
Bought a new tent, packed my gear and few clothes in my car and here I'm on the road driving across France from West to East near the Switzerland border, 10 hours drive.

August 13-14 2016
General weather: Pleasantly warm with slight breeze to warm

Route: Day 1 - Pont Greuil to Refuge Vittorio Emanuele
Day 2 - Refuge up to Gran Paradiso down to Pont Greuil

Stats: ~4.68 km up to refuge + 9.06 km to summit & down to refuge + 4.65 km down to parking lot
Ascent: 2454 ft + 4383 ft vert up/ Highest point: 13,325'
All related data can be found HERE

After a week near poshy Chamonix, I found a job in Sallanches - 15 miles down the valley to build skis for Dynastar, Rossignol group.
I skied twice in my life in Beaver Creek & Winterpark, I was ill at the time and couldn't stay the whole day of training so I can barely stand on skis but it's something that always appealed to me being a former "limited" skateboarder.
Anyway...it gives me some work and money during the week and a good location to fulfill my hiking addiction during weekends. At least for a while. Hiking season usually ends mid September over here and I'm already quite late in the season.
I first aimed at one of the easiest 4000m that can be climbed without rope, without too many crevasses on the glacier because I'm solo, which is never a good idea how good you are when you are in this area.
It's also a good introduction back to the Alps. Even though I lived the first 25 years of my life in France, I just climbed Mt Blanc back in 2011 through the Tete Rousse-Gouter and don't know much about the Alps. So I thought lets take it easy going forward.

The game here is not peaks above 14,000 ft but more between 4000m (13,125') & 4807m (15,770'). They count between 50 to 82 peaks depending on classification....
4000m peaks in the Alps are a different beast than hiking Colorado 14ers even in summer.
There are glaciers to cross in almost every peak and crevasses are widespread more or less intensively.
Crampons, ice axe and ropes are a must for almost 95% of the peaks.

Just when I type that, 3 guys died on the 3 Mont Route up to Mt Blanc, a serac fall on Mt Maudit...

Anyway, Gran Paradiso seemed to be the logical choice as being considered one of the easiest 4000m peak in the Alps especially from Refuge Emanuele. I called on the Wednesday before for a night on the Saturday and was surprised there was still availability at such short notice especially in the middle of the season.
There is another refuge from where you can start and is supposedly a much nicer refuge/route - Chabod Refuge - but the route is supposedly more prone to crevasses. May be later.
It also is around 2hrs drive from where I'm based right now - not counting the 1 hour delay to cross the Mont Blanc tunnel.
I left my tent at 9.30am to cross the Italian border and arrived at Pont Greuil around lunch time.
It is supposed to be a 2.5 hours hike from the parking lot to the refuge so didn't want to arrive too late in case it's very busy. First come, first chose his bed!

On the way up the refuge Vittorio Emanuele, looking down to the parking lot in Pont Breuil

First view if the Ciarforon and Becca do Monciair

First view of the refuge in less than 2 hours

Took me 1.45hr from the parking lot to the refuge at a steady pace along the many switchbacks and reached the refuge around 2.30pm.
Chill out for the rest of the afternoon. I usually switch between 3 pairs of shoes - Asolo for middle mountain like summer-Autumn 14ers, Meindl Air for when crampons are required and plastic Spantik for higher stuff.
Never used my Meindle since my Mt Blanc ascent and decided not to carry another pair of boots. Wearing them from the parking lot to the refuge got me blisters on my heels in less than 2 hours! Great!
There is a small lake with views on Le Ciarforon (3642m - 11,950') and Becca do Monciair (3544m - 11,627') just next to the refuge so people were sunbathing or even swimming into the cold pond.

Nice pond nearby to relax during the warm afternoon

The half pension - night, dinner, breakfast was 35 Euro for a dinner start at 7pm. I was allocated a table with 2 other climbers from Scotland. As I lived there for few years, we bounded very quickly and had fun during the copious dinner even though quality was not at its best but to be honest, it fills you up and it's what matters.

Refuge was not bad and I managed to get few hours sleep before waking up just at 4.15am.
Breakfast in any refuge can be summed up by a slice of bread and a tiny jam box with a crappy tea or coffee, the usual suspects. I'm not that hungry in the morning but you still need to get some stuff in your stomach before a big day.
I departed from the refuge just before 5am following the numerous lights in front of me. The first hour is a steady rocky path. There are cairns everywhere so I tried to follow them but quickly realized that they were really everywhere. Difficult in the dark to know which ones are the ones to follow and got off track quite a few times.

Start of the climb around 5am, trying to follow the lights

After an hour or so on the rocky path, snow patches become more and more persistent and a big snow field indicates it's time to wear crampons until the summit.

Snow section starts and all parties put their crampons and ropes on

Sunrise on the Bernese Alps looking down the valley

The slope is not very steep apart from few sections here and there but the main danger is the ice. On several prolonged occasions, you really need to mark your steps not to slip down. Ice axe is of great use and a rope can give you peace of mind. The other danger was the number of people, exhausted on the path, not moving. You need to get out of the already marked trail and passed through additional icy sections. I was not the only one asking them to step aside from the trail for a break but they seem not to understand any English, French or Italian. I think we were almost 100 people on the mountain that day.

Crampons are a must and few people were slipping

Icy sections were pretty common and great care needed to be taken

Where the route from Chabod refuge joins the normal route

I was not the only one to get the idea of climbing Gran Paradiso that day...

Final section before reaching the gendarme and then the ridge

Break just below the gendarme looking back west

Small crevasse before reaching the ridge

False summit in view with the Madonna standing high

Looking back to the final section from the ridge

It was hot even at the summit, perfect weather to climb

Ridge from false summit to real summit, some pretty exposed moves

The summit was reached in 4 hours from the refuge but we had to wait for more than 30 minutes just before the false summit due to the number of people. That was quite frankly ridiculous. The path is quite narrow but with people all being roped, it took ages for parties to free the space. I can't even imagine how it should be on a mountain like Everest where you sometimes have to queue for hours...

People trying to get down before the next wave of hikers

Snow was becoming slushy with the high temperatures

Afternoon view of the boulder field just before the snow field

View of the mountains before arriving back at the refuge

Time to run down the parking lot after a good omelette at the refuge

Overall a nice climb that is often used as an acclimatisation trip before climbing Mt Blanc. It's a good mountain to practice your crampons and ropes skills, the slope is not too steep and it makes a 7-8 hours long trip but not too taxing if you walk at a steady pace. The experience is much better when the number of people is limited but don't expect it during the summer season. This is where non experienced climbers can experience climbing a 4000m peak in the Alps so it's a good trip for any beginner.

My GPS Tracks on Google Maps (made from a .GPX file upload):

Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

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