Windom Peak Trip Report 05/19/2015

Peak(s):	Windom Peak - 14,089 feet Sunlight Peak - 14,061 feet Mt. Eolus - 14,087 feet
Date Posted:	05/19/2015
Modified:	05/09/2022
Date Climbed:	05/03/2015
Author:	moneymike
Additional Members:	ap snow

The Chicago Basin 14ers, The Turns, The Friends, The Fun
The Chicago Basin Trip For a year, my friend and main ski partner had nagged me to go back to Chicago Basin to ski Windom and Sunlight peaks from their exact summits. I had skied Windom Peak from the top of its north face ski line. I didn't bother with the shenanigans involved with getting a true summit descent off of the boulder piled summit, which is only a few feet higher than the top of the north face slope, and a little into the distance. I was also criticized for not doing my "homework" on Sunlight. I typically don't research my 14ers before hand, other than the basic route info in Dawson's guide. I like the surprise. However, I didn't like the surprise I had when I saw how unskiable Sunlight's peak was. I ended up skiing Dawson's line down the SE face, unaware that another line existed, descending from the summit plaque, around the east face and back onto the standard SE face. I had been happy with my Windom ski, but only moderately satisfied with my Sunlight ski, and so when my friend asked me to join him skiing the Chicago Basin 14ers, he really didn't have to twist my arm to convince me to take a second trip into the gorgeous Chicago Basin. The Night Before We arrived in Durango, Friday night. Austin (aka "ap snow"), Jesse (aka "body"), Dan (aka "Dan-the-man"), and I (aka "moneymike") drove in from the front range. Bjorn and Logan drove in from Edwards, and our special guest, Lucy Sackbauer (K2 sponsored tele skier) drove in from SLC. It was a long drive for all of us, and only one of us front rangers arrived sober (the driver). You will never guess who that was. Upon arrival, I proceeded to catch up, and then surpass my friends. The quality (and appropriateness) of the photos steadily declined after that shot was taken. So, let's just move on to the next day. The Train Boarding Our group of 7 skiers arrives at the Durango-Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad station. The plan is to take the 130 year old, coal-burning train 20 miles into the backcountry where we will access Chicago Basin, a drainage containing four 14,000 foot peaks including: Windom Peak (14,088�), Sunlight Peak (14,058�), Mt Eolus (14,085�), and North Eolus (14,045'). Our goal is to hike 6 miles into a base camp on Saturday, ski all four 14ers on Sunday, and hike back to the train on Monday. It's not lost on the group that this is an ambitious goal but, we board the train with optimism. Following in the footsteps of explorers before us we're riding the train in hopes of striking it big. Our big bonanza isn't hitting pay dirt, though, it's skiing from the summit of four 14ers in a single day. --Jesse's Journal Logan. Photo: Bjorn Logan, Mike, Austin, old tyme woman. Photo: Dan Mike, Austin. Photo: Dan Bjorn. Photo: Dan The Train Ride We board the first train of the season, which turns out to be a big deal in the town of Durango. People line the streets waving and snapping photos of the old-timey steam engine, which is certainly a symbol of the strength and ingenuity of the settlers of the rugged San Juan Mountains. As the train ambles along the old wobbly tracks, actors walk through the cars telling us tall tales of times past when gold and silver ruled the land.--Jesse's journal Photo: Dan Somebody had too much to drink last night. Photo: Dan Enjoying the views of the Animas a hundred feet below. Photo: Dan The Needleton Stop Halfway between Durango and Silverton, is the Needleton stop. This is where the hike begins. We exited the train, collected our gear, and adjusted our packs for the long haul to high camp. The once chatty group grew silent as we prepared ourselves for the wilderness. Our laughter and our jokes quickly faded as we contemplated the mission ahead of us. The train disappeared into the wilderness, leaving us with only the sound of the roaring Animas and our inner voices telling us to prepare for a long hike, a possible downpour, and the reward of whisky, food, and laughter when we finally reach high camp. We silently headed out on the trail. Mike, Austin. Photo: Dan Mike, Jesse, Lucy, Logan, Bjorn. Photo: Dan The Hike To High Camp We hike on dry trail past cascading waterfalls, moss covered rocks, and old growth forest. It feels more like Oregon than Colorado as our path meanders along the Needle Creek toward the Chicago Basin. After hours of dry hiking peppered with sporadic patches of knee deep snow we eventually make it to our camp spot and are greeted by impossibly jagged peaks in every direction. It's a relief to take off our heavy packs and set up camp with the aid of whiskey, jokes, and soft alpenglow bouncing off distant peaks. We chat until the steady hum of the creek drowns out our last words and we fall asleep under the blaze of the moon.--Jesse's journal Jesse, aka Body Movin' Photo: Dan Logan. Photo: Dan The Morning I awoke the next morning and made my Earl Grey. I slowly got myself fed and geared up, as I watched led lights pop on around camp, one by one. By five a.m., the crew was ready to go. Having done this trip before, I led the way up the valley, across the streams, and into the Chicago Basin beneath the fourteeners. I suggested that we do Eolus, North Eolus, Sunlight, and then Windom in that order since that is the order in which their respective lines heat up. However, for sentimental reasons, Austin wanted to finish on Eolus. The plan was changed to Windom, Sunlight, Eolus, and if time permitted, we could do the non official fourteener North Eolus. Photo: Dan Lucy. Photo: Dan Lucy. Photo: Dan Mike, Lucy. Photo: Dan Lucy, Austin, Logan, Mike. Photo: Dan Mike, Austin, Windom Peak. Photo: Bjorn The Windom Climb I had originally assumed we would climb the Widowmaker after descending Sunlight, but after plans changed, Austin informed me there was a route up the west ridge. I led the way, occasionally spotting cairns. Mike, Austin. Photo: Bjorn Lucy, Mike, Logan, Dan. Photo: Bjorn Logan, Dan, Lucy, Austin, Mike. Photo: Bjorn Logan, Bjorn. Photo: Dan Mike nearing Windom's summit. Photo: Bjorn The Windom Summit High fives, and smiles. We made Windom's summit. Austin, Mike, Lucy, Jesse, Bjorn. Photo: Dan Look! Mike has a surprise for everyone! Photo: Dan The Windom Widowmaker Windom's summit is an unskiable blocky boulder. Jesse and Austin downclimbed a short distance to the snow you see in image 25. This is where the legitimate skiing began. Having already made the "aesthetic" descent last year, this year I was in the mood for summit descent shenanigans. I clicked in on a patch of snow beneath the summit boulder, placed my pole on the true summit, and then side stepped small patches of snow to the snow in image 25. This stretch of snow wraps around the west face, and then a short side step upwards, brings you to the north face proper, where the real descent begins. The rest of the crew were in no mood for shenanigans and clicked in at the top of the North face, and began their descent. Logan. Photo: Dan Austin making a turn at the bottom of the Widowmaker. Photo: Bjorn Logan. Photo: Mike Mike in the Widowmaker. Photo: Jesse Photo: Jesse Mike. Photo: Bjorn The Sunlight Climb "Logan, how about you lead the way and kick steps for us geezers," I shouted to logan at the base of Sunlight's face. He laughed, and made his way up. The rest of us, minus Dan, followed. Halfway up the face, Jesse took over. Jesse booted up the face so fast that the rest of us could barely keep pace, following his booter. This was the point where we stopped calling him Body and started calling him Body Movin'. He was extremely motivated to reach a plateau. At the top of the snowfield, Austin discovered the "keyhole" that lead to the east facing "Sunlight ramp." "I found the Sunlight ramp," Austin shouted. "And it is in!" The "Sunlight ramp" is a snow covered ramp that descends from the summit plaque, around the east face above deadly exposure, to a keyhole that allows access to the south east face, the only face that is actually skiable. Excited for a summit descent, Austin charged his way up the ramp. Body Movin' and I followed Austin's boot steps. I informed Logan, Lucy and Bjorn of the typical route to the summit, which traverses the west face, through a different keyhole and up to the summit ridge. They took that route. Mike in the keyhole. Photo: Bjorn Mike and Jesse on the "ramp." Photo: Bjorn Jesse. Photo: Bjorn Logan on top! Photo: Bjorn The Summit Descent Lucy, Logan, and Bjorn downclimbed their ascent route and clicked in at the top of the snowfield on the face. The summit ski descent required more shenanigans and exposed skiing above cliffs on the east face. The 14er skiers, Austin and I, and the possible future 14er skier, Jesse, had a higher tolerance for shenanigans. Austin and Jesse downclimbed the mixed climbing section from the top and clicked in when they came to snow just barely wide enough to side step/ski. Downclimbing and transitioning to skis on an exposed slope seemed like too much shenanigans for me. I clicked in on the summit plaque and started the shenanigans from there. At the bottom of the "ramp," Austin and Jesse stepped out of their skis for the short climb up a snow slope and through the keyhole. Encouraged by my summit shenanigans, I felt a few more shenanigans could allow me to get up the slope and through the keyhole without removing my skis. Here's how it's done: Mike on the "ramp." Photo: Jesse Mike. Photo: Jesse Getting down without removing skis. Photo: Jesse Mike's Shenanigans. Photo: Jesse Mike. Photo: Jesse Lucy. Photo: Bjorn I was kinda glad the clouds moved in and hid the massive exposure!--Austin The Push Towards Eolus The next logical peak would have been North Eolus, with a descent into the basin beneath Eolus. The snow was warming, and the storms were coming. I already had the Chicago Basin fourteeners and was feeling more than satisfied with my Windom and Sunlight descents. Most of the rest of the crew were not projecting the fourteeners and were motivated by fun and not summits. Austin needed Eolus for his project, and so we all pressed on for Eolus. As we head west toward our third objective of the day, Mt Eolus, we look back to see Windom and Sunlight standing like giants in the distance. So far these imposing massifs have let us pass through their lines of weakness without incident; are we pushing our luck going for two more peaks?--Jesse's journal In no time at all, we made it to the base of Eolus' east facing couloir. Jesse led the way. He wallowed in armpit deep, soft snow. Lucy, Logan, and Bjorn held back and appeared to be conspiring amongst each other. When I made my way over to them, Lucy asked me if these were safe avy conditions. I felt it wasn't necessarily unsafe, but if they wanted to descend, I would support their decision. The four of us had nothing more we needed to prove that day and headed down together. Lucy led the descent through the low angle bowl, making beautiful arcing tele turns in the spring time corn. Austin was on a mission. This would be his last fourteener to climb and his second last to ski. A noble stepping stone to his project to ski all the fourteeners. He and Jesse continued upward. We reach the East Couloir on Eolus. The climbing in the bottom half of the line requires 45 minutes of tunnelling through armpit deep snow. We eventually find firmer snow in the top half of the line and make quick progress to the West face. We top out on the summit of Eolus. This is Austin's 54th 14er summit. We stop for a moment to take a portrait and celebrate his accomplishment of climbing all 54 14,000 ft. peaks in Colorado.--Jesse's journal. This was our 3rd 14er of the day and my true 14er finisher. I saved this mountain for last to honor Joe Stollar and his family. When I was young Joe, a really close family friend, died on this mountain while climbing with my father. I thought about Joe and his family, especially his son Eric who is my age and we are still close friends, throughout this mission. As I was approaching the east couloir a black bird started circling above me. Thank you Joe.--Austin Porzak These black birds are super important. They're the reincarnation of dead skiers. I like the idea that the world is reverse, and black has no color, so the birds are really white. They are angels.--Andreas Frannson Thunder crashes as we transition to our skis for the descent on the summit. We have to ski a few hundred feet down the West face then climb back up to the ridge to get back to the East Couloir. The clouds are getting dark and snow is starting to fly; we move fast through a maze of rock and thin lines of snow. We make it to the entrance of the East Couloir as the storm completely engulfs us. At this point we realize our goal to climb and ski North Eolus next isn't going to happen. We let that sink in for a moment then regain focus on the task at hand: safely getting off of Mt Eolus before we're completely overtaken in a white out. As we descend the visibility decreases quickly. Halfway down the couloir the only definition we have are the steep rock walls leading our passage to the bottom of the mountain.--Jesse's journal The Return To Camp We all arrived at camp wet. First Logan, Lucy, Bjorn and I. Then Dan showed up. Later Jesse and Austin arrived. Mike. Photo: Dan Jesse. Photo: Dan Logan and Bjorn's shanty town. Photo: Jesse We were cold and wet, but we had reason to celebrate. Austin and I have one fourteener left to ski to complete our projects. The rest of the crew skied their first fourteeners. And Logan's 20th birthday was the following day. And so we celebrated that night. Dan, Mike, Lucy. Photo: Jesse The Return To Needleton The next morning we awoke on our own time. One by one, we broke our camps, cleaned our mess, and made our way down. Mike. Photo: Bjorn Logan and Windom. Photo: Bjorn Jesse back at Needleton. Photo: Bjorn Sheltering from the rain in a derelict cabin at Needleton. Photo: Bjorn Bjorn, Logan, Lucy. Photo: Dan Thrilled about the completion of our mission, and the emergence of the sun, Logan celebrates in his own way... Photo: Bjorn And I celebrate in my own... Photo: Bjorn Same with Lucy... Photo: Bjorn The Secret Hand Wave To Signal The Train To Stop Mike. Photo: Bjorn The Credit I want to give a special thanks to Bjorn, Dan, and Jesse for hauling their heavy cameras up these peaks to get these fantastic photos. And a big thanks for allowing me to post them. You can view Bjorn's photography at bjornbauer.com, Dan's at danielsohner.com, and Jesse's at reelmotioninc.com, or follow them on Instagram at @bjornbauerphoto, @dansohner, and @reelmotion. Thanks to Austin (@aporzak1) for organizing the trip. The Last Word One thing I like about ski mountaineering is that it really puts things into perspective. When you are staring death in the face, all the petty bullshit in life reveals itself as being just that. When you face death, you realize how precious life is. Extreme skiers and adventurers walk a fine line. On one side lies the potential to live life to its fullest. On the other side lies the potential to break the hearts of everyone who loves you. Less than two weeks after this trip, the skiing community, climbing community, and the kayaking community lost an exceptional athlete. And the human race lost an exceptional person. Rest in peace, Logan. You lived a fuller life in your short twenty years than most people could hope to live in eighty. It was an honor to help you with your first two fourteeners and to celebrate your 20th birthday with you. Dan, Mike, Lucy, Jesse, Logan, Bjorn, Austin Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

The Chicago Basin 14ers, The Turns, The Friends, The Fun

The Chicago Basin Trip

For a year, my friend and main ski partner had nagged me to go back to Chicago Basin to ski Windom and Sunlight peaks from their exact summits. I had skied Windom Peak from the top of its north face ski line. I didn't bother with the shenanigans involved with getting a true summit descent off of the boulder piled summit, which is only a few feet higher than the top of the north face slope, and a little into the distance.

I was also criticized for not doing my "homework" on Sunlight. I typically don't research my 14ers before hand, other than the basic route info in Dawson's guide. I like the surprise. However, I didn't like the surprise I had when I saw how unskiable Sunlight's peak was. I ended up skiing Dawson's line down the SE face, unaware that another line existed, descending from the summit plaque, around the east face and back onto the standard SE face.

I had been happy with my Windom ski, but only moderately satisfied with my Sunlight ski, and so when my friend asked me to join him skiing the Chicago Basin 14ers, he really didn't have to twist my arm to convince me to take a second trip into the gorgeous Chicago Basin.

The Night Before

We arrived in Durango, Friday night. Austin (aka "ap snow"), Jesse (aka "body"), Dan (aka "Dan-the-man"), and I (aka "moneymike") drove in from the front range. Bjorn and Logan drove in from Edwards, and our special guest, Lucy Sackbauer (K2 sponsored tele skier) drove in from SLC. It was a long drive for all of us, and only one of us front rangers arrived sober (the driver). You will never guess who that was.

Upon arrival, I proceeded to catch up, and then surpass my friends.

The quality (and appropriateness) of the photos steadily declined after that shot was taken. So, let's just move on to the next day.

The Train Boarding

Our group of 7 skiers arrives at the Durango-Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad station.

The plan is to take the 130 year old, coal-burning train 20 miles into the backcountry where we will access Chicago Basin, a drainage containing four 14,000 foot peaks including: Windom Peak (14,088�), Sunlight Peak (14,058�), Mt Eolus (14,085�), and North Eolus (14,045').

Our goal is to hike 6 miles into a base camp on Saturday, ski all four 14ers on Sunday, and hike back to the train on Monday. It's not lost on the group that this is an ambitious goal but, we board the train with optimism.

Following in the footsteps of explorers before us we're riding the train in hopes of striking it big. Our big bonanza isn't hitting pay dirt, though, it's skiing from the summit of four 14ers in a single day. --Jesse's Journal

Logan, Mike, Austin, old tyme woman. Photo: Dan

The Train Ride

We board the first train of the season, which turns out to be a big deal in the town of Durango. People line the streets waving and snapping photos of the old-timey steam engine, which is certainly a symbol of the strength and ingenuity of the settlers of the rugged San Juan Mountains. As the train ambles along the old wobbly tracks, actors walk through the cars telling us tall tales of times past when gold and silver ruled the land.--Jesse's journal

Somebody had too much to drink last night. Photo: Dan

Enjoying the views of the Animas a hundred feet below. Photo: Dan

The Needleton Stop

Halfway between Durango and Silverton, is the Needleton stop. This is where the hike begins.

We exited the train, collected our gear, and adjusted our packs for the long haul to high camp. The once chatty group grew silent as we prepared ourselves for the wilderness. Our laughter and our jokes quickly faded as we contemplated the mission ahead of us. The train disappeared into the wilderness, leaving us with only the sound of the roaring Animas and our inner voices telling us to prepare for a long hike, a possible downpour, and the reward of whisky, food, and laughter when we finally reach high camp.

We silently headed out on the trail.

Mike, Jesse, Lucy, Logan, Bjorn. Photo: Dan

The Hike To High Camp

We hike on dry trail past cascading waterfalls, moss covered rocks, and old growth forest. It feels more like Oregon than Colorado as our path meanders along the Needle Creek toward the Chicago Basin.

After hours of dry hiking peppered with sporadic patches of knee deep snow we eventually make it to our camp spot and are greeted by impossibly jagged peaks in every direction. It's a relief to take off our heavy packs and set up camp with the aid of whiskey, jokes, and soft alpenglow bouncing off distant peaks. We chat until the steady hum of the creek drowns out our last words and we fall asleep under the blaze of the moon.--Jesse's journal

The Morning

I awoke the next morning and made my Earl Grey. I slowly got myself fed and geared up, as I watched led lights pop on around camp, one by one. By five a.m., the crew was ready to go.

Having done this trip before, I led the way up the valley, across the streams, and into the Chicago Basin beneath the fourteeners.

I suggested that we do Eolus, North Eolus, Sunlight, and then Windom in that order since that is the order in which their respective lines heat up. However, for sentimental reasons, Austin wanted to finish on Eolus. The plan was changed to Windom, Sunlight, Eolus, and if time permitted, we could do the non official fourteener North Eolus.

The Windom Climb

I had originally assumed we would climb the Widowmaker after descending Sunlight, but after plans changed, Austin informed me there was a route up the west ridge. I led the way, occasionally spotting cairns.

Logan, Dan, Lucy, Austin, Mike. Photo: Bjorn

Mike nearing Windom's summit. Photo: Bjorn

The Windom Summit

High fives, and smiles. We made Windom's summit.

Austin, Mike, Lucy, Jesse, Bjorn. Photo: Dan

Look! Mike has a surprise for everyone! Photo: Dan

The Windom Widowmaker

Windom's summit is an unskiable blocky boulder. Jesse and Austin downclimbed a short distance to the snow you see in image 25. This is where the legitimate skiing began. Having already made the "aesthetic" descent last year, this year I was in the mood for summit descent shenanigans. I clicked in on a patch of snow beneath the summit boulder, placed my pole on the true summit, and then side stepped small patches of snow to the snow in image 25. This stretch of snow wraps around the west face, and then a short side step upwards, brings you to the north face proper, where the real descent begins.

The rest of the crew were in no mood for shenanigans and clicked in at the top of the North face, and began their descent.

Austin making a turn at the bottom of the Widowmaker. Photo: Bjorn

The Sunlight Climb

"Logan, how about you lead the way and kick steps for us geezers," I shouted to logan at the base of Sunlight's face. He laughed, and made his way up. The rest of us, minus Dan, followed. Halfway up the face, Jesse took over. Jesse booted up the face so fast that the rest of us could barely keep pace, following his booter. This was the point where we stopped calling him Body and started calling him Body Movin'. He was extremely motivated to reach a plateau.

At the top of the snowfield, Austin discovered the "keyhole" that lead to the east facing "Sunlight ramp."

"I found the Sunlight ramp," Austin shouted. "And it is in!"

The "Sunlight ramp" is a snow covered ramp that descends from the summit plaque, around the east face above deadly exposure, to a keyhole that allows access to the south east face, the only face that is actually skiable.

Excited for a summit descent, Austin charged his way up the ramp. Body Movin' and I followed Austin's boot steps. I informed Logan, Lucy and Bjorn of the typical route to the summit, which traverses the west face, through a different keyhole and up to the summit ridge. They took that route.

Mike and Jesse on the "ramp." Photo: Bjorn

The Summit Descent

Lucy, Logan, and Bjorn downclimbed their ascent route and clicked in at the top of the snowfield on the face. The summit ski descent required more shenanigans and exposed skiing above cliffs on the east face. The 14er skiers, Austin and I, and the possible future 14er skier, Jesse, had a higher tolerance for shenanigans.

Austin and Jesse downclimbed the mixed climbing section from the top and clicked in when they came to snow just barely wide enough to side step/ski. Downclimbing and transitioning to skis on an exposed slope seemed like too much shenanigans for me. I clicked in on the summit plaque and started the shenanigans from there.

At the bottom of the "ramp," Austin and Jesse stepped out of their skis for the short climb up a snow slope and through the keyhole. Encouraged by my summit shenanigans, I felt a few more shenanigans could allow me to get up the slope and through the keyhole without removing my skis.

Here's how it's done:

Getting down without removing skis. Photo: Jesse

Mike's Shenanigans. Photo: Jesse

Mike. Photo: Jesse

Lucy. Photo: Bjorn

I was kinda glad the clouds moved in and hid the massive exposure!--Austin

The Push Towards Eolus

The next logical peak would have been North Eolus, with a descent into the basin beneath Eolus. The snow was warming, and the storms were coming. I already had the Chicago Basin fourteeners and was feeling more than satisfied with my Windom and Sunlight descents. Most of the rest of the crew were not projecting the fourteeners and were motivated by fun and not summits. Austin needed Eolus for his project, and so we all pressed on for Eolus.

As we head west toward our third objective of the day, Mt Eolus, we look back to see Windom and Sunlight standing like giants in the distance. So far these imposing massifs have let us pass through their lines of weakness without incident; are we pushing our luck going for two more peaks?--Jesse's journal

In no time at all, we made it to the base of Eolus' east facing couloir. Jesse led the way. He wallowed in armpit deep, soft snow. Lucy, Logan, and Bjorn held back and appeared to be conspiring amongst each other. When I made my way over to them, Lucy asked me if these were safe avy conditions. I felt it wasn't necessarily unsafe, but if they wanted to descend, I would support their decision. The four of us had nothing more we needed to prove that day and headed down together. Lucy led the descent through the low angle bowl, making beautiful arcing tele turns in the spring time corn.

Austin was on a mission. This would be his last fourteener to climb and his second last to ski. A noble stepping stone to his project to ski all the fourteeners. He and Jesse continued upward.

We reach the East Couloir on Eolus. The climbing in the bottom half of the line requires 45 minutes of tunnelling through armpit deep snow. We eventually find firmer snow in the top half of the line and make quick progress to the West face.

We top out on the summit of Eolus. This is Austin's 54th 14er summit. We stop for a moment to take a portrait and celebrate his accomplishment of climbing all 54 14,000 ft. peaks in Colorado.--Jesse's journal.

This was our 3rd 14er of the day and my true 14er finisher. I saved this mountain for last to honor Joe Stollar and his family. When I was young Joe, a really close family friend, died on this mountain while climbing with my father. I thought about Joe and his family, especially his son Eric who is my age and we are still close friends, throughout this mission. As I was approaching the east couloir a black bird started circling above me. Thank you Joe.--Austin Porzak

These black birds are super important. They're the reincarnation of dead skiers. I like the idea that the world is reverse, and black has no color, so the birds are really white. They are angels.--Andreas Frannson

Thunder crashes as we transition to our skis for the descent on the summit. We have to ski a few hundred feet down the West face then climb back up to the ridge to get back to the East Couloir. The clouds are getting dark and snow is starting to fly; we move fast through a maze of rock and thin lines of snow.

We make it to the entrance of the East Couloir as the storm completely engulfs us. At this point we realize our goal to climb and ski North Eolus next isn't going to happen. We let that sink in for a moment then regain focus on the task at hand: safely getting off of Mt Eolus before we're completely overtaken in a white out.

As we descend the visibility decreases quickly. Halfway down the couloir the only definition we have are the steep rock walls leading our passage to the bottom of the mountain.--Jesse's journal

The Return To Camp

We all arrived at camp wet. First Logan, Lucy, Bjorn and I. Then Dan showed up. Later Jesse and Austin arrived.

Mike. Photo: Dan

Jesse. Photo: Dan

Logan and Bjorn's shanty town. Photo: Jesse

We were cold and wet, but we had reason to celebrate. Austin and I have one fourteener left to ski to complete our projects. The rest of the crew skied their first fourteeners. And Logan's 20th birthday was the following day. And so we celebrated that night.

Dan, Mike, Lucy. Photo: Jesse

The Return To Needleton

The next morning we awoke on our own time. One by one, we broke our camps, cleaned our mess, and made our way down.

Mike. Photo: Bjorn

Logan and Windom. Photo: Bjorn

Jesse back at Needleton. Photo: Bjorn

Sheltering from the rain in a derelict cabin at Needleton. Photo: Bjorn

Bjorn, Logan, Lucy. Photo: Dan

Thrilled about the completion of our mission, and the emergence of the sun, Logan celebrates in his own way...

Photo: Bjorn

And I celebrate in my own...

Photo: Bjorn

Same with Lucy...

Photo: Bjorn

The Secret Hand Wave To Signal The Train To Stop

Mike. Photo: Bjorn

The Credit

I want to give a special thanks to Bjorn, Dan, and Jesse for hauling their heavy cameras up these peaks to get these fantastic photos. And a big thanks for allowing me to post them.

You can view Bjorn's photography at bjornbauer.com, Dan's at danielsohner.com, and Jesse's at reelmotioninc.com, or follow them on Instagram at @bjornbauerphoto, @dansohner, and @reelmotion.

Thanks to Austin (@aporzak1) for organizing the trip.

The Last Word

One thing I like about ski mountaineering is that it really puts things into perspective. When you are staring death in the face, all the petty bullshit in life reveals itself as being just that. When you face death, you realize how precious life is.

Extreme skiers and adventurers walk a fine line. On one side lies the potential to live life to its fullest. On the other side lies the potential to break the hearts of everyone who loves you.

Less than two weeks after this trip, the skiing community, climbing community, and the kayaking community lost an exceptional athlete. And the human race lost an exceptional person. Rest in peace, Logan. You lived a fuller life in your short twenty years than most people could hope to live in eighty. It was an honor to help you with your first two fourteeners and to celebrate your 20th birthday with you.

Dan, Mike, Lucy, Jesse, Logan, Bjorn, Austin

Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Comments or Questions

BlueKhan	Great writeup Mike 5/19/2015 7:44pm The ramp looks INTENSE.
d_baker	Mr. Serious 5/19/2015 7:55pm Do you ever smile?! Some great photos in your report. I descended that ramp on Sunlight in those conditions thinking that was how we came up. Nope. That’s not how we went up! We went up the little window you went down with your skis. Cool tour of the upper mountain though, because you get to go through a bigger (rock) window. Sorry about your friend. And good luck on your final 14er.
Frontrangeskier	Respect 5/19/2015 8:15pm First Rate Beer Haul!
Jay521	Sorry... 5/20/2015 8:03am ... about Logan
thurs	NICE 5/20/2015 9:45am Shenanigans! Great effort, great shots, good beer choices. In fact I’m probably most impressed with the hauling of glass beer bottles to your camp, moreso than the exposed skiing lines, good taste! Shenanigans, indeed. I will be sure to use that term next time I do some jump turns down a thin, steep, and exposed couloir. RIP Logan and all those like him who passed a little too soon.
ap snow	Nice! 5/20/2015 11:13am Great write up as always. RIP Logan
jmanner	Mike’s Skis 5/20/2015 2:08pm Looking at your 78s, makes me feel stupid for complaining about my 82 K2s. Well done!! Great write up.
SchralpTheGnar	nice tr and RIP 5/20/2015 2:42pm RIP logan, a good write up, always strange and sad looking at pictures of people who have recently passed.
moneymike	Thanks for the comments, everyone. 5/20/2015 10:24pm Logan’s friends and family have been, and will be reading this trip report. I’m sure they will appreciate your sentiment. Blue Khan: I didn’t find it to be as bad as people were making it out to be. But maybe that was because the clouds blocked out the exposure. d_baker: You sound like my elementary school teachers. "Why so serious? Smile, Mike." I love those photos because most of them were truly candid. When I saw the photos, my response was "holy crap, I had no idea you were photographing me." The photographers were like stealthy ninjas. Taillon75: Thanks, I agree. Jay521: Thanks for the sentiment. We’re all pretty heartbroken. I can’t even imagine what his mother is going through right now. Our hearts and thoughts are with Logan’s family. thurs: Yeah, glass bottles are not very practical for backcountry drinking. Vodka and whiskey in plastic containers is much more convenient...but not quite as photogenic. With a group of seven, though, you can manage to sneak in a few good bottles of beer. And trust me, every drop was savored. Oh, and you can bring as much on the train as you want and then stash it at Needleton. If I didn’t have the long drive back to the front range, I probably would have stashed more than that one bottle of Southern Charred. ap snow: Thanks, buddy. jmanner: I’ve been a fan of the Shucksans for years. A narrow, cambered ski holds an edge better than anything else. Nothing could be better for steep and icy terrain. However, with all the wonderful snow we had up there, I probably would have preferred my fatter skis. SchralpTheGnar: I agree. And thanks for the complement, I’m glad you enjoyed the story.
Gueza	Speechless 5/21/2015 12:05am Kick a$$ job guys!!!!! I’m really bummed I couldn’t make it :/. Mike, great turns on that sunlight ramp too. RIP Logan, our thoughts and prayers are with you and your family
dillonsarnelli	you the man 5/21/2015 9:46am Always look forward to these dude. Mother nature is keeping you out of hibernation this year. I like it! Well done boys. Great report Mike.
mtgirl	Lindsey 5/21/2015 11:08am Great report and photos. Lindsey Vonn must be knocking down your door by now. RIP Logan, a young life gone entirely too soon. Thoughts are with his family and friends.
FireOnTheMountain	sorry about Logan 5/21/2015 12:00pm was any water consumed?
moneymike	Gueza: 5/21/2015 12:31pm It would have been great if you had joined us! dillonsarnelli: I’m glad you like the trip reports. I never know what to think when only 1/1000 of the readers leave a thumbs up. So far, about 1/100 of the readers are leaving thumbs up!!! I must have accidentally done something right with this trip report. Maybe I should just have professional photographers follow me on all my trips. And, yeah, all this snow is heaven sent. There should be good skiing well into July this year! The mid July trip reports will be Bierstadt, Bierstadt, Quandary, ski tr, Bierstadt, Quandary, Bierstadt, ski tr, etc. mtgirl: Oh yeah, Lindsey is calling me non stop now. I’m like "sweetheart, take it down a notch." FireOnTheMountain: Water? Is that a type of beer? I’m sorry, I’ve never heard of it.
glenmiz	Thumbs up 5/21/2015 3:50pm Wow! I’ve enjoyed your reports – didn’t know about the thumbs up before.
moneymike	glenmiz: 1/12/2016 7:55pm Thanks. Thumbs up to you too.
ThrasherMerrill	ridden with shenanigans 4/8/2016 9:40pm This report is ridden with shenanigans and I highly approve of it. Also, how much goddamn beer did you backpack in???
Welsh Jill	You guys rock! 4/20/2016 9:22pm Thank you for such a great write up. We are heading to the basin May 7th so it was great to see all your pics.

Caution: The information contained in this report may not be accurate and should not be the only resource used in preparation for your climb. Failure to have the necessary experience, physical conditioning, supplies or equipment can result in injury or death. 14ers.com and the author(s) of this report provide no warranties, either express or implied, that the information provided is accurate or reliable. By using the information provided, you agree to indemnify and hold harmless 14ers.com and the report author(s) with respect to any claims and demands against them, including any attorney fees and expenses. Please read the 14ers.com Safety and Disclaimer pages for more information.

Please respect private property: 14ers.com supports the rights of private landowners to determine how and by whom their land will be used. In Colorado, it is your responsibility to determine if land is private and to obtain the appropriate permission before entering the property.

14ers.com

Social

Mobile App