Mt. Democrat Trip Report 07/14/2014

Peak(s):	Mt. Democrat - 14,154 feet
Date Posted:	07/14/2014
Date Climbed:	07/13/2014
Author:	Mike Shepherd

Democrat's Seldom Climbed North Couloir
I first read about this route in the Colorado Snow Climbs book by Dave Cooper, and the remoteness seemed appealing to me. Gerry Roach describes the route as "seldom seen or climbed." I would second that for sure. I got my first view of it from the top of Quandary the previous week. Ascent in Red, Descent in Green. Myself and three friends headed out to give this a try, for one it was his first time doing anything other than an established trail with signs. If you are coming from Denver and want to do a single day consider starting around 3 am from the Montgomery Reservoir parking lot to ensure the snow is hard by the time you get to the apron of the couloir. I attempted to hike in and set up a bivouac near the base of the climb however I was hiking into an abyss of fog. I could not see Mt. Lincoln or Mt. Democrat or anything really. I ended up setting up a bivouac close to turn off for the lesser used 4x4 road before the creek, but at the time I did not know this because I could not see that far. There are many low spots on the trail that hold water and all of them have some area or path through willows to the ascending hikers right that you can bail on to and avoid the deeper stagnant water. This is true except for where the creek floods the road from Wheeler Lake. Roach says to leave the road before it crosses the creek coming from Wheeler Lake, however I did not find that possible. There is probably a 60 foot or more stretch where it is quite deep it and in the dark navigating this section may well be the toughest part of the hike in and the best chance for completely soak your mountaineering boots and socks for the remainder of the day. Stay to the ascending hikers right and bushwhack through the willows and search for anything sticking above water to keep your feet on. 3 out of 4 in of our party were successful in staying dry at this crossing. Once you cross this difficulty you will find the road to the ascending hikers left. From here it looks like you are closer than you are. See the google map below, that is the location of the turn off. Follow the road until it abruptly dead ends at another creek. From here you will have some route finding choices, either side hill along Democrats North Ridge or descend into the valley. Our group split into two one group side hilled and my group headed down the valley. It takes longer going the valley route but the other half of the group said it sucked side hilling the scree. The red arrow is where the suck is. We found enough snow below the apron to stop, eat, gear up and climb up to the apron. Once on the apron I looked up the couloir and started getting pretty nervous, not for myself but for my buddy as this was his first climb. It just looked so steep for a first timer. I got almost panicked actually thinking about all that could go wrong and how I would feel like crap if he slipped. The top probably 2 inches were somewhat soft mainly from the previous nights rain and the sun it saw up to that point, but it was rock hard below and there was no chance of self arrest in the current conditions. Looking up the couloir. I'm that blue fuzy blob at the bottom. Full of anxiety we started climbing. I never felt good the whole climb up, I kept looking back and seeing where the fall line might take him. Once we topped out a huge burden was lifted from my shoulders. We relaxed a for a few and headed towards the summit. There was a beaten path for a while that we followed which seemed to peter out. The rock here is total crap, complete and total crap. One in our party found a man sized rock that could be moved just placing a hand on it. I attempted to gain the ridge and scrambled up a notch that required some 4th class moves to get off of. I decided to abandon this idea and deal with the loose rock as this was probably beyond my buddies comfort level for his first time. We decided to stay to the right of the rest of the scrambling obstacles and just be careful on the rotten rock. Once we emerged from the behind some of the obstacles we were able to identify the summit by a number of women who decided to relieve themselves out of view from the people coming up from the south. I'm not trying to be creepy but I literally just popped out from behind a rock and looked up and that is what I saw. A note of caution for anyone looking to head natures call by finding a little hidden spot on the north side of the summit, at least look to the north and see if there are any climbers coming up that way. I was wearing a blue shirt and a chartreuse climbing helmet and making plenty of noise sending loose rocks down, so it's not like I was hard to miss. We summited and relaxed for a while and headed down. I got a few smart ass remarks from tick listing hikers about wearing a helmet and mountaineering boots on the descent to the saddle. 'Decided to rock those mountaineering boots in case it got too tough, eh?' The descent from the saddle can be described as one giant loose boulder and scree field. If you are first in your group down a helmet is highly recommended. Rejoin the trail that you came up on and head back out. If you stay to the descender's right too long you will ultimately have to fight the willows to get back to the main trail which sucks and you'll move at about 500 yards/hour going through them. Overall I would recommend this route, but be prepared for a long day. The climb is in great shape and looks like it will hold for a while. Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Democrat's Seldom Climbed North Couloir

I first read about this route in the Colorado Snow Climbs book by Dave Cooper, and the remoteness seemed appealing to me. Gerry Roach describes the route as "seldom seen or climbed." I would second that for sure. I got my first view of it from the top of Quandary the previous week. Ascent in Red, Descent in Green.

Myself and three friends headed out to give this a try, for one it was his first time doing anything other than an established trail with signs.

If you are coming from Denver and want to do a single day consider starting around 3 am from the Montgomery Reservoir parking lot to ensure the snow is hard by the time you get to the apron of the couloir.

I attempted to hike in and set up a bivouac near the base of the climb however I was hiking into an abyss of fog. I could not see Mt. Lincoln or Mt. Democrat or anything really. I ended up setting up a bivouac close to turn off for the lesser used 4x4 road before the creek, but at the time I did not know this because I could not see that far. There are many low spots on the trail that hold water and all of them have some area or path through willows to the ascending hikers right that you can bail on to and avoid the deeper stagnant water. This is true except for where the creek floods the road from Wheeler Lake. Roach says to leave the road before it crosses the creek coming from Wheeler Lake, however I did not find that possible. There is probably a 60 foot or more stretch where it is quite deep it and in the dark navigating this section may well be the toughest part of the hike in and the best chance for completely soak your mountaineering boots and socks for the remainder of the day. Stay to the ascending hikers right and bushwhack through the willows and search for anything sticking above water to keep your feet on. 3 out of 4 in of our party were successful in staying dry at this crossing. Once you cross this difficulty you will find the road to the ascending hikers left. From here it looks like you are closer than you are. See the google map below, that is the location of the turn off.

Follow the road until it abruptly dead ends at another creek. From here you will have some route finding choices, either side hill along Democrats North Ridge or descend into the valley. Our group split into two one group side hilled and my group headed down the valley. It takes longer going the valley route but the other half of the group said it sucked side hilling the scree. The red arrow is where the suck is.

We found enough snow below the apron to stop, eat, gear up and climb up to the apron.

Once on the apron I looked up the couloir and started getting pretty nervous, not for myself but for my buddy as this was his first climb. It just looked so steep for a first timer. I got almost panicked actually thinking about all that could go wrong and how I would feel like crap if he slipped. The top probably 2 inches were somewhat soft mainly from the previous nights rain and the sun it saw up to that point, but it was rock hard below and there was no chance of self arrest in the current conditions.

Looking up the couloir.

I'm that blue fuzy blob at the bottom.

Full of anxiety we started climbing. I never felt good the whole climb up, I kept looking back and seeing where the fall line might take him. Once we topped out a huge burden was lifted from my shoulders.

We relaxed a for a few and headed towards the summit. There was a beaten path for a while that we followed which seemed to peter out. The rock here is total crap, complete and total crap. One in our party found a man sized rock that could be moved just placing a hand on it.

I attempted to gain the ridge and scrambled up a notch that required some 4th class moves to get off of. I decided to abandon this idea and deal with the loose rock as this was probably beyond my buddies comfort level for his first time. We decided to stay to the right of the rest of the scrambling obstacles and just be careful on the rotten rock.

Once we emerged from the behind some of the obstacles we were able to identify the summit by a number of women who decided to relieve themselves out of view from the people coming up from the south. I'm not trying to be creepy but I literally just popped out from behind a rock and looked up and that is what I saw. A note of caution for anyone looking to head natures call by finding a little hidden spot on the north side of the summit, at least look to the north and see if there are any climbers coming up that way. I was wearing a blue shirt and a chartreuse climbing helmet and making plenty of noise sending loose rocks down, so it's not like I was hard to miss.

We summited and relaxed for a while and headed down. I got a few smart ass remarks from tick listing hikers about wearing a helmet and mountaineering boots on the descent to the saddle. 'Decided to rock those mountaineering boots in case it got too tough, eh?'

The descent from the saddle can be described as one giant loose boulder and scree field. If you are first in your group down a helmet is highly recommended.

Rejoin the trail that you came up on and head back out. If you stay to the descender's right too long you will ultimately have to fight the willows to get back to the main trail which sucks and you'll move at about 500 yards/hour going through them.

Overall I would recommend this route, but be prepared for a long day. The climb is in great shape and looks like it will hold for a while.

Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Comments or Questions

jeffth5	Thanks for the report 7/16/2014 12:28am Sounds like a fun snow climb in good conditions. Did you take any pictures of the rock difficulties that you described at the top? I bet it was tough to hold your tongue on those sarcastic comments you got. Ha.
Mike Shepherd	Rocks 7/17/2014 10:59pm I did not, essentially stay to the right of them and tread carefully. Unless you fancy some scrambling. There is this picture from a great trip report on the North Ridge by Tomy Boy 360 that gives some idea of what staying on the ridge is like. I have in the past received odd looks descending hiking trails but no comments. I just said 'I came up a different route than this' and left it at that.

Caution: The information contained in this report may not be accurate and should not be the only resource used in preparation for your climb. Failure to have the necessary experience, physical conditioning, supplies or equipment can result in injury or death. 14ers.com and the author(s) of this report provide no warranties, either express or implied, that the information provided is accurate or reliable. By using the information provided, you agree to indemnify and hold harmless 14ers.com and the report author(s) with respect to any claims and demands against them, including any attorney fees and expenses. Please read the 14ers.com Safety and Disclaimer pages for more information.

Please respect private property: 14ers.com supports the rights of private landowners to determine how and by whom their land will be used. In Colorado, it is your responsibility to determine if land is private and to obtain the appropriate permission before entering the property.

14ers.com

Social

Mobile App