Peak(s):  Quandary Peak  -  14,265 feet
Date Posted:  05/06/2014
Date Climbed:   05/05/2014
Author:  Taylor B

 North Face Descents   

Hello, this is my first TR. Over the years I have explored the many facets of Quandary as a skier and a climber. A few days ago I skied my "last great Quandary project." I skied a line that I have climbed as a mixed route in the fall and thanks to the obese winter, I was able to ski the line with two rappels and saw no sings of a previous descent, except for a slung death-block lower down in the couloir. The couloir goes at WI2 M2+ 50+deg snow, and has a high objective hazard due to loose rock and rock fall. The Canary Couloir.
North Side Descents

The Canary Couloir

Looking down at the secound rappel of the Canary Couloir.

The second route(s) I did a few weeks prior. I ascended a WI2/snow ramp to the upper section of the Inwood Arete and down climbed into the tight couloir on the same east facing aspect. The ski descent was about 45deg at its steepest and a very fun adventure. Tommy Knocker.
Lines off the Inwood Arete.

Tommy Knocker

The third line I climbed and skied in the big winter of 2011 is in the same cirque and just to the east of the other two routes. IMO, this line is the king line and is worth a repeat. This line went at WI3 M1 50+deg with one rappel and one down climb. Noxious Fumes.
Noxious Fumes. It looks good this year;)

All routes done solo. Thanks for checking out my TR. If you have any stories or history on this cirque, I would love to hear about it!


Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

 Comments or Questions

Excellent share
05/07/2014 02:14
sweet outings/routes. I dig it.

Dave B

05/07/2014 03:02
Taylor, nice to see you over here on 14ers instead of just on MP. Awesome report, thanks for the beta on a good climb and descent.

Keep 'em coming.


05/07/2014 03:45
Thanks for sharing and nice work!


Nice routes
05/07/2014 04:03
That Ascent route you took to ski your tommy knocker route is one that has always caught my eye. So many lines on quandary skiing well this year!


great to learn about new routes
05/07/2014 06:13
thanks for the TR!! might have to check some of these out, minus the skis, haha

Taylor B

Thanks for the Stoke!
05/08/2014 02:58
Ha ha, thanks Dave B! can get pretty agro and even I'm guilty of feeding into that type of energy. The people at seem like some hypoxic-happy people stoked on the mountains
I left a lot of gear up there; including homemade Bandito-style pitons in Noxious Fumes and a lot of Hb off sets, alien cams, and pitons in the Canary. ”A lot,” because the rock is not that solid in that neck of the woods.


Nice first tr
05/08/2014 17:08
Thanks for posting. Hopefully there will be more.

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