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Peak(s):  Mt. Democrat  -  14,154 feet
Date Posted:  04/12/2014
Modified:  04/13/2014
Date Climbed:   04/12/2014
Author:  Nelson
 Up the down staircase   

I arrived at the Paris Mill winter road closure at about 5 AM on April 12. The forecast called for a big storm the next day and deteriorating weather for today. As this was a much shorter hike than the day before, I was confident I could get my climb in before the "snow hit the fan" (please excuse all mixed metaphors).

I didn't think I would have any trouble navigating in the dark on the road but it was snow covered and there were snowmobile tracks going in every direction so I did manage to get off the road a couple of times. Thank God for pre loaded GPX tracks.
Image
Looking down on Kite Lake


Given the soft snow I had experienced on Shavano, I was worried about what I would find on the South Slopes here. As I got above Kite Lake it became evident that there was a one to two inch crust on top of soft snow. The crust make it difficult to skin on anything steep but when I transitioned to crampons I was breaking through and trail breaking became very difficult. I broke trail for about 1100 ft. in two phases: First, in the small bowl above Kite Lake and then in the chute I chose to get to the upper part of the mountain.
Image
The chute ascending to the upper mountain

This cost a lot of time (2 hours) but that's "snow business". (Yet another mixed metaphor!) When I got to Emma Lake Basin under the cliffs I could see a lot of wet avalanche activity from previous days. I took some comfort in the fact that it was colder and the snow was hard and dry.
Image
Under the cliffs above Lake Emma


Upon summiting I took photos of various aspects for the benefit of the community:
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The North Ridge of Democrat

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Cameron, Lincoln

Image
Bross

Image
Summit of Democrat



The wisdom of the adage "climb what you are going to ski" served me well today. I was quite sure that I did not want to ski this breakable crust back to Kite Lake but I didn't know what things would be like on the East Face. I searched for wisdom in Donald Rumsfeld's treatise on "knowing what you don't know versus not knowing what you don't know versus not knowing what you do know" but I just got confused and decided to ski the east slopes because it couldn't be any worse than what I had just climbed. In this case the goddess of corn snow smiled on me and I had 2,000 feet of great skiing down to Kite Lake.
Image
Looking back on the Kite Lake approach.
I passed two climbers coming up the east ridge with some difficulty and without crampons or axes . I hope they made it ok.

The trip back down the road was uneventful. I actually skinned a good part of the way. At this point the clouds were coming in and the winds were kicking up. As I was finished pretty early I was able to make it all the way back to Utah on the same day to a beautiful wife and dog who were very happy to see me.



Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
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Comments or Questions
jmc5040
User
Great Two Days
4/14/2014 1:03am
Looks like you made the most of your trip in to Colorado! I was out yesterday on Elbert and found similar miserable snow conditions below tree line. Nothing like finishing the day working just as hard as earlier in the day!


MatB
User
Nice work
4/14/2014 1:30am
Nice work Nelson on back to back outings. I enjoyed the trip reports.


DanielL
User
Kite Lake Road
4/17/2014 11:20pm
Looks like fun! I'm planning to hit Democrat this Saturday. How snow-covered was the road on the approach from Paris Mill? It looks pretty good from the last picture - enough to keep the skis on?


Nelson
User
Road
4/17/2014 11:52pm
I had my skis on the whole way going up to Kite Lake.

Coming down I took them off once and for the last half mile or so I actually put my skins back on!



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