Peak(s):  Longs Peak  -  14,255 feet
Date Posted:  07/26/2013
Modified:  11/04/2013
Date Climbed:   07/23/2013
Author:  Alan Arnette

 Northwest Couloir aka Knight Couloir  

I guess I have to say Longs Peak is my favorite 14er given I have climbed on it over 125 times reaching the summit on 33 occasions. I’m not an overly technical climber and use Longs as training for my higher altitude climbs so it was a treat to explore a new route (for me) with some good friends on July 23, 2013.

The Northwest Couloir was first documented by Enos Mills (aka Mills Lake) in 1896. He noted previous evidence of earlier human activity in the couloir. Today it is rarely climbed and often goes unnoticed by the thousands who pass underneath on the Ledges as part of the normal Keyhole route. I have been guilty of this for over a decade.

A bit more on Mr. Mills. He went on to summit more than 40 times solo and served as a guide 300 more times. He was instrumental in obtaining National Park status in 1915 for what we now call Rocky Mountain National Park. The first documented summit of Longs was by John Wesley Powell and a party of seven in 1868 but it is almost certain the local Native Americans summited well before him.

The Northwest Couloir is a Class 4 climb but we used ropes to protect the team as we found verglas near the crux move midway through the gully. It could be climbed without protection but the margin of error is very small and would need to be dry or climbers having solid experience in my opinion.
Route as seen from Arrowhead Peak

This is a different level than the Keyhole or Loft routes. I had scouted it a few weeks before in early July and found significant ice on the route.

The route follows the normal Keyhole approach through the Boulderfield, Keyhole and onto the Ledges. The NW Couloir is the last gully on the left (East) just before the Trough. There is an earlier gully that can be mistaken for the NW but a large rock formation at the top of the gully resembling the Knight chess piece is the landmark to use.

The lower climb is straightforward but with the loose rock, it requires attention especially for those below you on the Ledges. The handholds are tenuous, more like something you would find in the Elk Range, not on Longs. Water is often running down the Couloir making the up climb sloppy at times.

A series of narrow rock benches create a somewhat easy route but in general staying to the climber’s right worked well for us.

Looking up the Couloir from the Ledges. Note the Knight at the top
Looking down at the Ledges

The crux, and most fun move, is navigating the cave. Technically it is not a cave but rather a gap between two huge slabs that have become lodged in a narrow chimney, aka pancake rocks. While an alternate route is to the right of the cave, it is a 5.2 - 5.4 slab rock climb. If covered in verglas, as parts were on our day, it would be challenging. The exposure to the lower Couloir is extreme. It is doubtful that a cell phone would receive a signal in the Couloir but I didn’t try.

The approach to the cave is via the lower chimney leading to a false gap. From there, a move to the right is required to see a decades (century?) old ring piton half way hammered into the rock. I would love to know the history of this piece.

A decent rock ledge allows for a good foothold to reach the piton and from there a couple of aggressive moves takes you to the entrance of the cave. It was on this move where we put in a couple of nuts for protection.

Once at the entrance, we crawled in to see a 16 inch high gap with sunlight on the other end. Our team use a variety of gymnastic moves to wiggle through the gap ranging from bellyflop, to backstroke to sideways crawl but all required removing our packs.

Reaching the cave
The crux move
Entering the cave
In the Cave

Once through the gap, a solid rock platform allows for a safe foot plant.

The Couloir opens up above the cave returning to a Class 3 rock scramble. At the top it joins the Keyhole Ridge route but well above the rated 5+ sections. A long series of connected slabs take you to the summit plateau.
Climbing out of the cave
Above the NW Couloir
On the Keyhole Ridge
On the Keyhole Ridge

The views of the Trough and climbers looking like ants dominate the view 600’ below. The view of the irregular rock blocks stacked like dominoes was astounding.

Given we had a 60m rope and harnesses, we rappelled down the North Face completing a unique and satisfying day on Longs Peak.
Rapping the North Face

Thanks to these trip reports that prepared us for the day:
Climbing with Bob

Our little team was Stuart Smith, Noelle Smith, Jim Davidson and Alan Arnette

Climb On!
Memories are Everything

The following video was taken by myself and Jim Davidson. I hope you enjoy.

Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

 Comments or Questions
Kevin Baker

07/26/2013 18:52
Awesome timing, Alan! This is on the agenda for a new route and grid slot for me this weekend. Thanks for the info, man!

Alan Arnette

07/26/2013 19:02
Glad it helped. It made me think about Longs in a whole new way. Enjoy!


Well done!
07/26/2013 19:00
I was considering this for the next time I venture up Longs, looks like a pretty fun experience. Did you happen to see the Stone Man Pass area? snow?

Alan Arnette

No Snow
07/26/2013 19:03
Was on Arrowhead on Monday and no snow on Stone Man, etc.


Thank you!
07/26/2013 19:11
The Arrowhead Arete looks like a fun one. Cheers!


07/26/2013 21:19
Glad you made it up this route, Alan, one of my favorites. Great report and pics!

Alan Arnette

Thanks Tom
07/26/2013 21:24
Not surprised you had climbed this one! We still need to get Keiners!


Excellent, Alan!!
07/27/2013 12:36
Super video and documentation! And I still want to do this especially since it didn't work out this year. So keep me in mind if you're around next July! Thanks again, Alan!!


07/27/2013 15:58
I think I met you on the Keyhole Route last May - if I recall it was your 25th summit of Longs. Great report and route.

Alan Arnette

More to come
07/27/2013 16:40
Yes, we did. Yeah, I just keep on climbing that big rock :_ Thanks Tyler.


07/27/2013 16:38
this is fantastic!


Wonderful contribution
07/27/2013 16:57
Is there serious danger of knocking rocks on climbers in the standard route? Thanks for posting this!

Alan Arnette

07/27/2013 17:06
Absolutely. We were very careful about foot (and handholds) placement as we started the up-climb as there were many small to medium size rocks that could easily be dislodged and fall directly onto the Ledges and unsuspecting climbers.


Knight's Move
07/29/2013 00:25
On the chess board, the Knight should always be close to the action. And, so were you! Great report, great picts, great beta -- on this most enticing route. And, as a bonus for us all, thanks for sharing the bit of history. Another fantastic climb!


16 inch gap?
07/29/2013 21:00
I'm out. Thanks for posting this! Long's is such an intricate mountain with so many possibilities.


10/07/2013 02:19
And what amazing climb will you do on your 58th??
You have opened my eyes to a whole new world!

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