Vestal Peak Trip Report 08/22/2012

Peak(s):	Vestal Peak - 13,867 feet
Date Posted:	08/22/2012
Date Climbed:	08/08/2012
Author:	jesse

Vestal Basin #2 Wham Ridge!!!
The alarm went off at 4:30 and I snapped awake. The night before we packed our backpacks and after a short stop in the lower meadow for water we began the ruthless climb up to the upper basin. In the dark the steep hill was quickly forgotten and dismissed but the ever widening view of incredible mountains. The Twilight view of Vestal Peak Moonlight on Vestal Peak We contoured beneath Wham ridge to it's east side after a little searching we found the grass ramps entrance and started climbing up the class 2+ ledges towards the prominent upper grass ramp. Climbing up the grass ramps to the wide standard start point The ramp is clear once you are on the wall and it draws you to the western edge of the ridge. Wham Ridge is really a giant face of the mountain but the climb stays close to the western edge most of the way up. The end of the grass ramps a perfect place to gear and fuel up The first long 2+ to class 4 pitch Marc quickly lead the entire 70 meter rope and set up the first belay station. The climbing was very easy here and with the exposure to the west it was inspiring. Top of the first pitch Looking up the 2nd pitch After another long lead Marc set up the 2nd belay just below the 5.4 crux. It was clear and obvious how to ascend the ridge. The Crux was an easy to follow crack with alot of options for holds and climbing. It was not very exposed here either and I can understand why this was a classic climb here. Far view of the Crux pitch Marc leading the 5.4 Crux pitch Above the Crux Pitch 5.0 ish Looking down Wham Ridge at Vestal Lake The climbing became exposed class 4 with a few 5 moves mixed in. As you move further from the crux pitch the upper section of Vestal peak becomes more broken with many options for summiting. Arrow Peak Points to Heaven Looking down most of Wham Ridge above all the difficulties The top of Vestal was much more broken and less exposed Marc lead just east of the westernmost towers, this kept the difficulty at class 5.2-5.4 and it felt right to continue up the edge of the ridge with great exposure to the west. The final scramble from N Vestal to Vestal peak We started climbing at 7:15 and 7 well protected pitches later were on the summit at 1:10. I admit when the clouds started to build around 11am I was a little anxious, but they stopped billowing and started to shrink. This gave us confidence to continue climbing with lots of protection and diligently enjoying the ascent while being safe. #4 1 to go~! What a spectacular summit! With unreal views in every direction and not a trace of civilization visible this peak is a true wilderness destination. San Juan Mania North face view just off the summit of Vestal peak Tomorrow's Goal After spending a good amount of time basking in our accomplishment we began to look for the descent. The correct gully took some work to find and was below the summit across one gully to the west and then down the south west side of the south face. This gully is VERY loose with lots of blocks poised to fall. After going SW for a few hundred feet it contours around the south face of Vestal peak which towers above the cleaver traverse. The downclimb was horribly loose and wraps all the way around Vestal More contouring on loose shelves The "Dues collector" hill from the Vestal Arrow saddle was HORRIBLE! Completely loose scree and worthless small moving rocks. This was very unpleasant and I couldn't imagine climbing up to the saddle this way could be any fun at all. An amazing classic climb WHAM RIDGE!!! We took our time descending, looked at the entrance to Arrow Peak's ramp and finally made it back to the lower meadow at around 4pm. We refilled our water hiked up to camp ate like wolves and the rain came on again harder this time at around 6pm. It helped us sleep and prepare for yet another day of scrambling on Arrow in the morning. Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Vestal Basin #2 Wham Ridge!!!

The alarm went off at 4:30 and I snapped awake. The night before we packed our backpacks and after a short stop in the lower meadow for water we began the ruthless climb up to the upper basin. In the dark the steep hill was quickly forgotten and dismissed but the ever widening view of incredible mountains.

We contoured beneath Wham ridge to it's east side after a little searching we found the grass ramps entrance and started climbing up the class 2+ ledges towards the prominent upper grass ramp.

Climbing up the grass ramps to the wide standard start point

The ramp is clear once you are on the wall and it draws you to the western edge of the ridge. Wham Ridge is really a giant face of the mountain but the climb stays close to the western edge most of the way up.

The end of the grass ramps a perfect place to gear and fuel up

Marc quickly lead the entire 70 meter rope and set up the first belay station. The climbing was very easy here and with the exposure to the west it was inspiring.

After another long lead Marc set up the 2nd belay just below the 5.4 crux. It was clear and obvious how to ascend the ridge.

The Crux was an easy to follow crack with alot of options for holds and climbing. It was not very exposed here either and I can understand why this was a classic climb here.

The climbing became exposed class 4 with a few 5 moves mixed in. As you move further from the crux pitch the upper section of Vestal peak becomes more broken with many options for summiting.

Looking down most of Wham Ridge above all the difficulties

The top of Vestal was much more broken and less exposed

Marc lead just east of the westernmost towers, this kept the difficulty at class 5.2-5.4 and it felt right to continue up the edge of the ridge with great exposure to the west.

The final scramble from N Vestal to Vestal peak

We started climbing at 7:15 and 7 well protected pitches later were on the summit at 1:10. I admit when the clouds started to build around 11am I was a little anxious, but they stopped billowing and started to shrink. This gave us confidence to continue climbing with lots of protection and diligently enjoying the ascent while being safe.

What a spectacular summit! With unreal views in every direction and not a trace of civilization visible this peak is a true wilderness destination.

North face view just off the summit of Vestal peak

After spending a good amount of time basking in our accomplishment we began to look for the descent. The correct gully took some work to find and was below the summit across one gully to the west and then down the south west side of the south face. This gully is VERY loose with lots of blocks poised to fall. After going SW for a few hundred feet it contours around the south face of Vestal peak which towers above the cleaver traverse.

The downclimb was horribly loose and wraps all the way around Vestal

The "Dues collector" hill from the Vestal Arrow saddle was HORRIBLE! Completely loose scree and worthless small moving rocks. This was very unpleasant and I couldn't imagine climbing up to the saddle this way could be any fun at all.

We took our time descending, looked at the entrance to Arrow Peak's ramp and finally made it back to the lower meadow at around 4pm. We refilled our water hiked up to camp ate like wolves and the rain came on again harder this time at around 6pm. It helped us sleep and prepare for yet another day of scrambling on Arrow in the morning.

Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Comments or Questions

forbins_mtn	nice 8/22/2012 12:51pm work, boys! Vestal is definitely on my short list for next year. Looks like a great climb!
tmathews	Sweet 8/22/2012 2:03pm Nice report. Glad at least the bear head made an appearance!
Marmot72	sweet pics 10/24/2012 4:27am Wham Ridge is one of my highlights of this summer and of all my scrambles. Glad to see you enjoyed a great day on it and I enjoyed the report.

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