Peak(s):  Mt Rainier - 14,118 feet
Date Posted:  07/10/2012
Modified:  12/17/2012
Date Climbed:   07/05/2012
Author:  I Man
Additional Members:   dereferenced, robco
 July on Liberty ridge  

I have provided a link to a site that I am working on. I put some info and pictures here for those not wanting to proceed. The report is written as more of a short story or expedition journal than a trip report and some may not like this style. I also apologize as it is quite lengthy.

All in all this was a great trip with some great people. A big congratulations to all the Colorado climbers on Rainier this summer. I have thoroughly enjoyed the other Rainier trip report and I look forward to reading others.

Liberty Ridge

Mt Rainier, Liberty Cap (14,118ft)

June 30th-July 5th, 2012
Climbing Team: Peter, Rob, Matt
Liberty Ridge - Featured in Roper and Steck's "Fifty Classic Climbs of North America"


Day 1: 3 miles to Glacier Basin; Camp 1 (5,900ft)
Day 2: Up and over St Elmo's Pass, across Winthrop Glacier and onto Curtis Ridge; Camp 2 (7500ft)
Day 3: Cross Carbon Glacier and gain Liberty Ridge via Eastern Slopes. Climb to Thumb Rock at 10,700ft; Camp 3 (High Camp)
Day 4: Weather day. Tent bound at Thumb Rock
Day 5: Attempt summit from Thumb Rock. Forced into bivy at 13,200ft; Camp 4 (unplanned)
Day 6: Gain Liberty Cap Glacier, Summit Liberty Cap (14,118ft), Descend 10,000ft via Emmons Glacier to Camp Shurman and Car at White River

All 5,500ft of Liberty Ridge

Camp 2 - Lower Curtis Ridge

Peter and I contemplate the ridge. "Terrifying," we conclude

Approaching St Elmo's Pass

Rob attempts to cross a crevasse high on the Carbon Glacier

Climbing high on the ridge

Part way up the ridge looking into the abyss

Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

 Comments or Questions

07/11/2012 02:52
really well written and looks like an amazing route. congrats!


Nice work!
07/11/2012 03:19
We summited via Emmons Glacier the morning of the fifth. We were at Camp Schurman when you walked through later in the day. Nice work!


burly route
07/11/2012 14:11
thats one hell of a burly route, i can't believe people have skied it.


07/11/2012 14:27
Nice work, Matt, Peter, and Rob. I'm proud of you guys. Wish I could have been there with you....uh, no, actually I don't. But I have all the respect in the world for tackling a route like that. Sounds like it was quite the mental game too. Lastly, those pictures are absolutely kick ass amazing.


07/11/2012 14:37
The report does justice to an awesome climb. Congrats. When's the free solo of the Devil's Thumb?


07/11/2012 15:14
Cool, good job! Lot of snow up there this year huh!
I summited on Sunday via the DC route, was a great trip.


07/11/2012 15:17
Seems like you guys had a great time, way to put the time in training and preparing and getting the job done. Looks like quite the route, way to persevere and face your fears to get the job done. I'm sure this experience will help in your winter quest out her in non-glaciated Colorado.

Well done, proud of all of you!


Nice job, man!
07/11/2012 16:26
I heard throwing the inflate-able pad in an 8oz reflective bivy does the trick.

Congrats on a tough route. You guys appeared dead tired.


Great job!
07/11/2012 16:49
I enjoyed reading about your trip, it looks like a very tough route. Congrats to all of you and way to make your dreams become a reality.


Love the perspective
09/24/2012 15:44
It's great to see what ”the other side of the mountain” looks like while Jeff, Matt squared, and I climbed the DC route at the same time.


F*ing beautiful
07/11/2012 17:44
I am so imspired it's not even funny. Your honesty throughout the read really brings the report to life.

Thanks for the ride Matt, Rob and Peter. Great job to all of you on what looks like a grueling, yet rewarding route!


This is very impressive
07/11/2012 21:03
I've read this a couple times today, and can't imagine tackling a tough route with tough / unpredictable conditions. I like how you detailed your thought processes throughout the climb, nice work.


Dude . . . THIS IS BAD ASS!!!
07/11/2012 23:01
So what's next?

Summit Lounger

Hanging in
07/12/2012 01:50
Congratulations on climbing a classic route. 1st time to camp Shurman I was scared to death. You guys had a great journey. Well done.


The Real Deal
07/12/2012 22:54
Congrats to all on completing a true alpine style climb!!! It looks like you guys had some ”interesting” conditions. I can attest to this climb, having done it years ago that this route gives one a real perspective on alpinism and how committing it can be. There's nothing like ”running the guantlet” on the Upper Carbon!!!


Very well said..
07/15/2012 02:33
”It is, I am sure of it, though I could never tell you why.” Awesome trip.

moon stalker

I saw you at Camp Schurman!
07/15/2012 16:16
I was at one of the larger kitchens making water for our summit attempt the next day. I saw someone that looked like you and thought, naw, that can't be him. Then I saw your report, saw what you were wearing, and confirmed, yup, that was you! At the time I was tempted to yell out 'Maaatttttt', but obviously didn't. Shucks. Great report, and major congrats on a tough climb and hanging in there. Our summit day was 17 hours and all we did was go from Schurman to Schurman. We had an epic day for very different, pathetic, reasons. Your epic day is for the records! Good job to all.

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