Peak(s):  Whale Pk  -  13,078 feet
UN 12088
UN 12567
Glacier Peak - 12853
Date Posted:  01/05/2012
Date Climbed:   01/02/2012
Author:  Papillon
 The Jefferson Lake Experience  

We were able to park about a mile below the lake at an elevation of 9800 feet.

I'd like to give a shout out to Kevin Baker for his May 2008 TR on this loop. Our ascent gully is visible here in the skyline.

Kimo recommended we John Wayne it and ditch the snowshoes early. A great call because the snow was short and painless.

We punched through to the rafters of the gully and chilled next to a slanting talus field.

The gully was solid but cool and it felt good to have the sun's rays on us again. Very rejuvenating.

Mount Guyot looking pretty slick.

The Old Guard standing tall. Winds were nominal at this stage but would increase over time.

Just another day at the office, eh?

The Team.

The task at hand.

We put Jefferson Lake in our rearview...

... and languidly rolled up UN 12567.

Winds kicked so we didn't linger.

Kimo in his element.

A couple of ups and downs and Whale Peak was in pissing distance (well, not literally).

Almost there.

Looking back at our route.

Winds were now an F.U. 35 mph on the summit so we cleared out quickly.

And found ourselves on unranked Glacier Peak. We hit both summits but the western one is higher.

Things got soft and grassy and soothing when we realized the vertical gains were done for the day.

"And I dreamed I saw the bomber death planes riding shotgun in the sky. Turning into butterflies above our nation." (Mitchell)

A couloir that might interest d_baker this spring...

Cold Hard Reality: We have to get to the snowshoes before we can get to the IPAs.

Rumor has it that Jimmy Hoffa is buried in this sh--. No regrets on leaving the snowshoes behind, however.

Poach me if you can...

Things got frisky as we approached the lake. I'll be damned if I tear this jacket here.

But we finally made it. And actually considered crossing it for about thirty seconds or so before common sense prevailed.

The shoreline was a mixed bag of rock and frictionless ice flows that were looking to break necks and give concussions.

Don't worry, I'd never take your picture doing the alpine crawl and put it in a TR. After all, internet image is everything these days...

Dusky strolls are very peaceful. We pass the final quiet minutes exchanging bear attack stories. Thanks for coming along. Papi out...

Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30

 Comments or Questions

Oh my ...
01/05/2012 20:58
1) Pissing distance ... I believe Matt made it clear to me in an earlier trip report comment that on any given day, under the right conditions, you (being a MAN) were truly, literally within pissing distance of that summit.
2) The Team ... ... I think that is ”the Smiling Team”.
3) Jimmy Hoffa ...
4) Common sense ... ... always a good thing to bring along ... actually, I believe it was originally one of the 10 essentials. 8)
5) Alpine Crawl ... ... You didn't go there ... tell me you didn't just go there ... you poor man ... I feel your pain before the first blow even hits your head.
Happy trails!


01/05/2012 21:44
One of my favorite hikes from my 2010 season. The ”bristlecone orchard” below Glacier was an amazing area. And the 12ers provided a perfect example of ”rolling hills”.

I know that they used to not plow the road to Jefferson Lake, however I also know that they just paved it not long ago. Did they change their plowing habits because of that?

I cant believe that now has 3 reports on UN12088. Freaking tubular. The way it should be.


Pure sugar
01/06/2012 04:36
And i'm not just talking about that crumbly sugar snow we dropped down although that was fun. After that frequent tearing sound, I looked at my jacket a few times ready to say ”shitttttt.” But we made it through the gauntlet with everything intact, most important, the limbs, fingers, and toes. Perfect 30-n-60 write-up of a mountain that just wouldn't let go. Slip sliding good times for sure. Amazing how much water has drained from the snow. That ice flow around the lake was crazy.

Presto, team smiles...those smiles come easy when out with good people. As for the alpine was something we all did. Stuff like that just adds to the fun although posting the evidence...Papi...

Derek, did you say tubular? I haven't heard that since I came to Colorado. Reminds me of good times so long ago. The snow plow: the gate is closed a mile or so before the lake. Easily drivable to that point. There is another open gate, lower down at the entrance station, a few miles before the lake. They could still stop there in deep winter.


01/06/2012 15:40
”Poach me if you can...”
I'm sure there's a few here that would be interested in your track, but let's be real, this is a 14ers site. ;)

Thanks for looking out for me by pointing out potential climbs, good man.

And I'm digging your picture/caption reports.

I'll see the 3 of you soon!!


January? Or October?
01/06/2012 15:59
Can't beleive how dry it is out there. See you guys soon!!

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