Peak(s):  Longs Peak  -  14,255 feet
Date Posted:  11/30/2011
Date Climbed:   11/27/2011
Author:  Carl
Additional Members:   FireOnTheMountain, robco
 Longs Peak - North Face / Cables  

Late Saturday afternoon I started a thread on looking for a partner for Longs' north face. At 6am the following morning Abe (FireOnTheMountain), Rob (robco), and I were starting up the snow-packed trail towards Chasm Junction.

Crossing the Boulder Field with the route in full view.


Abe scrambling towards the first pitch.

Rob putting on the harness and taking out the rope.

Built a quick anchor to move up about 10 feet so we could belay off the first eye bolt.
Image Photo by Rob

Me hanging off the first eye bolt, ready to bring Rob and Abe up so we can get things started.
Image Photo by Abe

No ice on the route made most of the climbing pretty straightforward. Rob and Abe followed on 30 meter 8mm ropes. Nice and light on the approach but it necessitated two pitches. Thanks to Marc (14ers handle XC Snowboarder) for letting us borrow the second rope.

Things got cold belaying in the shade on the north face so the picture taking was kept to a minimum. After about 200 feet of roped climbing and a few fifth class moves, we were scrambling towards the summit.

Abe making the final steps to to the summit around 1:45pm.

My first November Longs summit.

Having been in the shade for the last four hours we thoroughly enjoyed the sun on the summit for nearly a half hour. In lieu of returning to the shade and dealing with 3 rappels on the north face, we opted for a descent of the Keyhole. Rob on the left with Abe starting down the homestretch.

A look back up at the homestretch.

Abe and the narrows.

A look back at the route from near the Keyhole. The trough was mixed with snow and a little avoidable ice.

Abe and I watched the sunset from the Keyhole as the wind started to pick up again and the temp quickly dropped.
Image Photo by Abe

Another sunset shot before Rob joined us and we climbing through the Keyhole.

Found the trail in the Boulder Field as things got dark and we headed towards the city lights.

Got back to the parking lot around 8:30pm. Thanks to Rob and Abe for making the last minute climb happen. Nice meeting you guys.

Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

 Comments or Questions

12/01/2011 06:43
Done guys! Sorry we couldn't join you up top. Thanks for the northside beta

Brian C

Nice work!
12/01/2011 12:45
Looks like things were looking good up there. Wish I could have gone!


12/01/2011 16:15
There are so few trs this time of year that actually have real climbing/scrambling involved. Nice job and thanks for sharing.


12/01/2011 17:00
I just want to give a +1 to the comment from Taylorzs. Nice job!!!


Nice, Carl
12/01/2011 18:37
Sweet sunset pics, man. Gorgeous day to be up on the NF.


12/02/2011 03:32
Nice, Carl! What a beautiful day it must have been up there.
Thanks for the TR and beta on conditions. Nice to see the NF ice-free going into winter.
And congrats on the late November summit gentlemen!!


12/02/2011 17:46
Nice work Carl.


Wicked Awesome !!!
12/05/2011 03:45
Great work Carl!
Thanks for sharing and I wish I could be with you next time.


12/08/2011 21:31
Nice job. Looks like it was in great shape! Nice picture too!

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