Peak(s):  Pettingell Pk  -  13,553 feet
Date Posted:  09/16/2011
Modified:  12/11/2014
Date Climbed:   09/04/2011
Author:  Jay521
 An old friend by a different route  

Peak: Pettingel Peak
Route: East Ridge
Approach: Herman Gulch
Length: About 9.5 miles RT
Vertical: About 3400 feet
Ascent party: Santiago & me

I have always loved Pettingel Peak. I think it offers some of the best views of any front range mountain. I have been up it many times (and it makes a fun snow climb) and each time I have gone, I have always eyed the east ridge and thought that might be an interesting route.

As I didn't start doing any class 3 and easier class 4 stuff until the last few years, I had thought it out of my reach, but reading a report on summitpost and hearing from member Presto (thanks!), I decided to go for it.

I wish I hadn't waited so long...

Take the normal Herman Gulch trail approach and when you hit the junction with the Jones Pass trail, it is time to head straight north to gain the saddle that is just visible behind the sign

Then you head west and stay on an easy class 2 going up the ridge.

(looking back down towards the saddle)

The ridge is now entirely visible. In most cases, you can stay just to the climber's left of the ridge and keep it at difficult class 2 (although the rock is pretty loose) or you can stay on the ridge proper for some fun (and solid) class 3 scrambling. We chose the ridge.

The ridge proper is a mixture of class 2 and class 3 as evidenced in the following pictures

Santiago on the ridge

There is one wall near the summit that would probably be considered class 4, but it can be avoided by going to the climber's left (as you see me doing). Photo credit:Santiago

Once past that, it is a quick & easy class 3 scamper to the summit.

The views from the summit are awesome (Photo Credit:Santiago)

We came down the standard route and didn't see another person until we got to Herman Lake

And this guy took over the lead for me on the way down (Photo Credit:Santiago)

The East Ridge route will now be my standard route up Pettingel Peak from now on. It is a fun route with gorgeous views.

And I just have to end with some wildflower pictures - amazing that they are still out in force by Labor Day.

Thanks for taking the time to read this - and be careful out there!

Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15

 Comments or Questions

East Ridge looks fun!
09/16/2011 17:50
A climber we met on The Citadel had mentioned that the east ridge was a fun scramble. Thanks for putting up some photos to confirm! I may have to do this route with a combo of Hassel Pk.


Nice Shots!
09/16/2011 17:59
I'm partial to this ”IMAX” style of photo presentation as well. Nice work on the ridge, looks fun.


Best one yet, Jay
09/16/2011 19:52
Your photos do an outstanding job of showcasing this route.
If this TR had been up last year, I'd have taken this route, instead.
Thanks for posting!


Very nice, Jay!
09/16/2011 19:53
Excellent route with excellent pics! Glad you decided to take it. Presto's been somewhat of a mentor to me too! Thanks!


09/16/2011 23:33
I've had this peak on my back burner for too long.
Great TR - thanks for the info on this route.
This makes a great option when a long drive is out of the question.
Looks like you guys had a great day.


Thanks for your compliments and comments!
09/17/2011 20:48
Bergsteigen - I plan on doing the Citadel/Hagar route because of your TR. Glad I could return the favor!

Benners - I'm with you on the large pix.

Matt - Pettingel is an annual favorite of mine - you might want to do it again via the east ridge. And I did East Spanish Peak because of your TR so I guess this is a sort of a thank you for that.

MtnHub - Yep, Presto was a big help on this one.

Sunny1 - You will like this peak, I'm sure.

Everyone - I sincerely appreciate the ”likes” and the comments. I will try and do reports on routes & mountains that aren't commonly written up.


Great write-up ...
09/19/2011 18:26
And, you really did a nice job of capturing the fun in this ridge route. Thanks for the kind words, Jay. Looking forward to more from you ... happy trails!

scott goldberg

great report
01/24/2013 15:47
did this route last summer, and it was a really fun day. Outstanding pix!


Good route!
07/29/2013 18:29
Nice report on the East Ridge. I ascended the East Ridge, trying to stick as close to the ridge as possible. Descended the standard route. East Ridge was way more fun. Standard route descent seemed to be a pain in comparison.

   Using your forum id/password. Not registered? Click Here

Caution: The information contained in this report may not be accurate and should not be the only resource used in preparation for your climb. Failure to have the necessary experience, physical conditioning, supplies or equipment can result in injury or death. and the author(s) of this report provide no warranties, either express or implied, that the information provided is accurate or reliable. By using the information provided, you agree to indemnify and hold harmless and the report author(s) with respect to any claims and demands against them, including any attorney fees and expenses. Please read the Safety and Disclaimer pages for more information.

© 2020®, 14ers Inc.