Peak(s):  Capitol Peak  -  14,130 feet
Date Posted:  09/06/2011
Date Climbed:   09/04/2011
Author:  ulvetano

 Daly-K2 ridge variation to Capitol  

Figured that I'd add in a brief report, since I haven't seen much about the Daly-K2 ridge. Gaby and I hiked into Capitol Lake from the Cap Creek TH on Saturday morning at 9am and arriving at the Lake at Noon. Gave us plenty of time to nap, fish, and I hiked up to the saddle towards Avalanche Lake and below the North Buttress.

Cap Crk trail

under the North Buttress

After a good nights sleep, we got up just after 4am, grabbed some coffee and breakfast, laid out a bed my my pup inside the tent, and then headed up to the Daly-K2 saddle at 5am, where we arrived at 5:45. Still dark, we decided to just tackle the ridge head-on and see what kind of challenges it would bring us.

on the ridge. K2 in the background

Daly-K2 ridge

The ridge was definitely arduous, with false summit after false summit and consistent Class IV for over two hours. This was Gaby's first prolonged class IV action and it proved to be taxing, but she did a great job and safely navigated all of the tricky moves, loose rock, and exposed sections great job!

summit of K2

After summitting K2 and working thru a sketchy downclimb, we reached the knife-edge, but Gaby was over the exposure and decided to just rest up near K2 while I continued on. Sticking to the summit ridge was definitely my preferred line, versus all of the lower traversing. I think it took another hour from K2 to the summit. All in all a beautiful day and a tough peak.

Summit shot

Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

 Comments or Questions

Ran into Gaby on my way down
09/06/2011 18:13
I got to the summit of Capitol on Sunday morning, pretty early. I was the first to summit with lots of people behind me. On my way down, I ran into Gaby chillin' just short of the Knife Edge. She looked way comfy! I was jealous. It looked like such a nice spot to just hang out and get some sun and what an awesome view.


Just chillin'
09/09/2011 22:03
It was such a nice spot where I decided to chill... I must confess I fell asleep for a few minutes, never in my life have I opened my eyes to such amazing views.


great route
10/24/2012 05:46
I did that route in 2010...a lot of fun - wasn't the knife edge a bit anti-climactic after all of the ridge to get to it? That was my impression. Thanks for sharing the report.

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