Peak(s):  "Siberia Pk"  -  13,420 feet
Date Posted:  08/19/2011
Date Climbed:   08/06/2011
Author:  Furthermore
 A New Favorite Elk 13eener.  

"Siberia Peak" 13,420

August 6, 2011
~8.9 Miles, ~4,200 Gain.
Trailhead: Geneva Lake (4WD)


It is amazing how the weather can make a change for the better. The prior two days the afternoon thunderstorms were rolling in early but today was different. We didn't make it up to the Geneva Lake road until 10 AM but the weather appeared to be formulating into a great blue bird day so I decided to climb "Siberia Peak." I started hiking by 10:30 AM and made my way to Geneva Lake, Little Gem Lake and eventually to Siberia Lake. By the time I reached Siberia Lake the trail had disappeared; it was the end of the line.

Snowmass from Geneva.

First good view of Siberia Peak

Siberia from just below Siberia Lake.

Floating in Siberia Lake were some ice bergs. Only in Siberia, only in the summer. I skirted the left/west side of Siberia Lake and started up a grassy slope angling for the southeast side of "Siberia Peak." Once above a rocky bench above the lake, I climbed directly west up the east slopes of "Siberia Peak." At first the slopes were class 2 then slowly increased to class 3.

Ice in Siberia Lake.

There was a small solid rock buttress that I climbed up to gain the ridge. It probably had some of the best class 3 scrambling I have experienced on an Elk 13eener. To my astonishment, the rock was solid as I climbed up beautiful fractured white granite blocks. Climbing would have been easier on either side of this "buttress" but the scrambling was outstanding.

My route up the east face of Siberia Peak.

Good view up the south ridge on Siberia.

Looking down some of the class 3.

Really good class 3 going up Siberia.

Climbing upward, I eventually reached the south ridge. Unfortunately, the rock quality wasn't as good on the ridge but still wasn't as chossy as other Elk 13eeners. I followed a small ledge system on the east side of the ridge which kept things at class 2 but eventually, I had to regain the ridge crest which took me to the summit with some fun class 3. I arrived on the summit at 1:15 PM with sobering views of Snowmass and Capitol, both of which looked fierce.

South Ridge on Siberia. Some of this can be bypassed on a ledge system on the east/right side of the ridge.

Class 3 on the rider proper.

Looking back on the south ridge of Siberia Peak.

Snowmass from Siberia.

Close up of Capitol from Siberia.

Capitol from Siberia.

Panorama from the summit.

After enjoying the views, I returned via my ascent route and wallowed in wild flowers back to my car where I returned at 3:45 PM.

Siberia Lake.

Wild Flowers.

More wild flowers.

Route map from Geneva Lake.

Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
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 Comments or Questions
Summit Lounger

Worth it !!!!!
08/20/2011 02:39
What a beautiful peak. Definitely worth the trip. Someday......


Good RT time!
08/20/2011 18:05
Thanks for posting. I've thought about this one, but didn't know how difficult it would really be. Glad you caught a break on the weather.


That's why Roach makes it a CO Classic Peak
08/21/2011 02:50
So, it's on my short list. Thanks for posting.


Thanks for Posting
08/15/2012 02:44
Planning on Siberia this weekend. Really appreciate this info on the route. Looking forward to a fun scramble!

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