Peak(s):  Wilson Peak  -  14,017 feet
Mt. Wilson  -  14,246 feet
El Diente Peak  -  14,159 feet
Date Posted:  07/02/2011
Date Climbed:   07/01/2011
Author:  taylorzs
 Northern San Juan extended condition report  

I normally do not do trip reports that do not have to do with snowboarding peaks but with the amount of snow out there and the amount of people wanting to know conditions out there I am doing this report. I got some good info before I left and want to reciprocate. I chose to use this instead of the conditions report page because of the picture/information volume contained.

Overview of hike into Navajo Lakes: Completely snow free and pretty dry all the way to the Lake. Standard summer conditions here. The trail is slightly overgrown but pretty normal for the area in my experience.

Overview of Wilson Peak conditions:
I climbed the southwest ridge (standard route) on Wilson Peak, yesterday, 7/1/2011.
The route still has snow on it and an axe and crampons, in addition to the standard year round necessary helmet carry are still required for this route. The area below the rock of ages saddle is still covered in a decent bit of snow. Snow free from the Rock of Ages saddle to the Wilson/Gladstone saddle.

The snow is isothermic and characteristic of an early summer snow pack ie. probably do not need snowshoes to cross. It is fairly dense. I walked on all of it with no problem. There are a few patches of snow just past the Wilson Peak/Gladstone saddle that neccessitate axe and crampons. Fairly small snowfields, but just in the right places that you will be glad of having and axe and crampons. There is also one more snowfield just before the false summit that is probably possible but annoying to scramble around. I just climbed through with axe and crampons.

The route's crux between the false summit and the main summit is completely snow free and dry as of yesterday.

Both the northeast and northwest faces were patchy and no more ski/snowboard descents will be possible this season I would expect.

Overview of Mt. Wilson and El Diente snow/climbing conditions:
The south sides of both peaks appeared to be very patchy with snow coverage.

The north sides of both peaks from Navajo Lakes had considerably more snow. Snow was just patchy enough that I would not think skis/board would be worth it. Although most climbing will be snow and mixed on the north sides of these peaks.

The Luttrell line is not continuous anymore. I know it was last week though.

Lizard Head Peak looking snow free...

The Wetterhorn and Uncompahgre looking patchy.

The view of Sneffels from Wilson Peak.

 Comments or Questions

Very cool.
07/03/2011 03:48
I think you're correct that a lot of folks are looking to conditions reports in this area right now.

Thanks so much for posting!


Ditto on ”very Cool”.
07/14/2011 00:46
Thanks for posting, heading that way in a few weeks.

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