Peak(s):  Uncompahgre Peak  -  14,309 feet
Wetterhorn Peak  -  14,015 feet
Date Posted:  06/06/2011
Date Climbed:   06/04/2011
Author:  jfknockrock
 Uncompahgre W Face   

We drove to the Matterhorn Creek trailhead Friday 3 June. We got as far as the turnoff to the last 4wd section. The last section is melting fast, but no one has tried it yet.

We carried skis to the summer trailhead, and then skied with a few gaps to camp at about 11,150'. A nice dry spot with running water for the kitchen, but most of us tented on snow.

Got up too late Sat., and started up Uncompahgre at about 6. When we got to the basin SW of Uncompahgre, we decided not to go all the way around E to the summer trail, but to ski up to the notch just S of the W Face (see arrow in picture 1), then up the S Ridge to the summit.
Uncompahgre from Matterhorn

We skied some of the summit ridge, then clambered down to the top of the southernmost of the W Face couloirs. Due to the late start and my slow pace, we were descending at about 2:00. The couloir was a bit soft, but fun. The last turns down to camp were pretty mushy.
Descent route down couloir in center

Our plan had been to climb and ski the E Face of Wetterhorn on Sun. Looking at it on Sat., we decided it looked unstable, and the slide debris would make for difficult skiing.
Wetterhorn E Face

Instead, we decided to climb Matterhorn. We got an earlier start (5:00) and skied up the S ridge until the final scramble to the summit.
A great climb and a beautiful summit! From that vantage, the Wetterhorn face looks a bit less intimidating, but still pretty steep. Great skiing down back the ridge.
Wetterhorn from Matterhorn

We then broke camp and skied and walked out, carrying our skis over section that had melted out since we came in. All in all, a great outing.

Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

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