El Diente Peak  
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2017-02-17  Route: South Slopes
Posted On: 2017-02-18, By: SnowAlien
Info: El Diente got a lot of snow. Not much exposed rock in the entire basin. Lots of wet slides (frozen debris) on southern aspects. Traverse would be time consuming and tricky under current conditions, if doable. North side traverse is heavily wind loaded. Good news, the snow on southern aspect is well consolidated and climbable. 
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2016-10-01  Route: South Slopes
Posted On: 2016-10-02, By: STIBungy
Info: Headed up El D via Kilpacker TH at 5:15. The trail through the wooded area was very wet and muddy after raining the day before. Once reaching the talus section, the rock were covered in frost and a thin layer of ice. Microspikes made for a faster and more stable climb of what seemed like an endless field of talus. The ascent up the south face was slick until the sun came up. Certain spots had a thicker layer of ice. Few spots of snow. All avoidable on south face. The north side of the peak held more snow. All unavoidable. Majority was knee deep powder under crust if you broke through. The lack of an ice axe made for a sketchy traverse and ascent. 
2016-09-19  Route: South Slopes
Posted On: 2016-09-21, By: Tab
Info: Great weather. Micro spikes recommended on north side traverse and final gully. Traverse to Mt. Wilson clear with only trace amounts of snow on north side of ridge line. Lots of loose rock in gully during normal route descent off Wilson. Fun traverse. 
2016-09-18  Route: South Slopes
Posted On: 2016-09-19, By: Nelson
Info: Once you get to the north side there's a fair amount of snow. If you don't have micro spikes you will be unhappy. I was on the summit with 4 experienced climbers. On the descent we narrowly avoided a serious accident. 
2016-09-04  Route: South Slopes
Posted On: 2016-09-05, By: My-Therapy
Info: Early morning storm moved through yesterday (Sunday Sept. 4th) which made for fairly muddy and even sloppy conditions below treeline in several areas. The wind and sun yesterday started to dry it out some in the afternoon. The last 100 yards or so of the hike has some accumulated hail piles that pose a few areas of caution, but can be done without traction or axes. windy above 12,500' yesterday but overall good conditions. 
2016-09-02  Route: South Slopes
Posted On: 2016-09-05, By: Strider29
Info: Waited all morning and part of the afternoon for the clouds to move off the summit. Started up from treeline at 2:30pm and reached the summit at 5:30pm. Routefinding was moderately challenging on the way up, very difficult on the way down. Never did find he "correct" route until nearly nearly back to the basin floor. There's about 6" of corn snow to deal with on the north side after crossing through the first notch. We kicked steps in it where needed and had no problems, but would need at least microspikes if it freezes up. Made it back to treeline right at dark at 8:00pm. 
2016-09-01  Route: South Slopes
Posted On: 2016-09-01, By: dweiss2
Info: Summer conditions with a few wet spots here and there until you drop over to the north side of the ridge. The last 300 feet is steep angled corn snow, just shallow enough to be unsupportive, but deep enough to help you slide off the edge should you slip. Too shallow for crampons, but deep enough to make microspikes marginally useful. Definitely bring microspikes and an ice axe if you intend to summit the last 300 feet. I did, but it took a lot of work on sketchy terrain. Wherever there is not snow, there is very wet and slick rock, so take your time and be willing to turn around if you feel unsure! Remember you have to down climb as well! My 2 cents: wait for warmer temps next week to let it melt out 
2016-08-25  Route: South Slopes
Posted On: 2016-08-30, By: aweilert
Info: 2 to 3 inches of snow after the shift to north side of ridge on the 25th. Made some of the exposed spots a bit more of an issue, but still relatively solid. The rest of the route was clear and fine. Certainly more snow now after storms on the 26th. 
2016-08-11  Route: South Slopes
Posted On: 2016-08-12, By: Msprowso
Info: Nice, uneventful summit. Be aware that trail into basin above tree line and climbing route is mostly scree and slippery even when dry. Will add some to your time. After negotiation of two slots near top, you will navigate past exposure of 5 of 6 for a short distance. Take care. Summit register cannister is damaged; no endcap. No register inside anymore. 
2016-07-29  Route: South Slopes
Posted On: 2016-08-01, By: valdostastate
Info: Friday morning, July 29th, we set out from the Rock of Ages Trailhead at 4:30am. It took us 1.45 minutes to reach the saddle at rock of ages. Only a few small sections of snow on the rock of ages trail but totally avoidable. Took a small break at the saddle to access our route up the north slope of el diente and then across the traverse to mount wilson. There is still snow in the north coulior on diente, crampons would have been nice, but the snow was avoidable on the east side of the coulior. The snow was still bullet proof while we ascended at 8am. we reached the diente summit at 9:15am and then started back towards towards mount wilson. Reached mount Wilson summit by 11am, no snow on the route across at all. We headed down mount Wilson after a short break on top. As we headed down it started to snow for about 20 mins and then the storm moved on. By the time we regained the rock of ages saddle it was 1:25 but the skies looked clear enough for an attempt at Wilson Peak. We were up and down Wilson Peak in 1 hour and 15 minutes round trip from the rock of ages saddle. We slowly walked back to the trailhead in no rush. Back at the trailhead about 4:30pm. Solid day with lots of elevation but fun route 
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2016-07-12  Route: North Buttress
Posted On: 2016-07-13, By: scottaskinger
Info: Route is clear to top as well as traverse 
2016-07-10  Route: North Buttress
Posted On: 2016-07-24, By: nathanfisher
Info: Zero snow. Zero wind until summit. Clear day. Started at 6 am. Did the traverse and had 20-30 mph loud winds. If your name is Orion, you gave me an email with a typo. I have your pictures for ya. 
2016-07-09  Route: North Slopes
Posted On: 2016-07-11, By: atomnic
Info: Snowpack conditions from R.O.A./Gladstone Saddle. Traction devices recommended above ~13,000 ft & up chutes. 
2016-06-29  Route: South Slopes
Posted On: 2016-07-03, By: thebeave7
Info: Climbed the South slope from the Kilpacker TH. Trail is in good shaped and no snow in the lower basin until you hit 12800ft. From there is it mostly solid snow up to just below the Organ pipes, where you get back on the rock. From the Organ Pipes to the summit is a scramble on rock and gravel. From what I saw the top of the North face was dirt/rock but the lower 2/3 was on snow. The traverse from El Diente to Mt Wilson is in summer conditions, all snow is avoidable. 
2016-04-24  Route: Luttrell Line
Posted On: 2016-04-25, By: mojah
Info: Skiable from the summit 
2015-10-21  Route: North Slopes
Posted On: 2015-10-22, By: c_dickson
Info: Ventured up to Navajo Lake on Tuesday, spent the night, and attempted El Diente‘s north slope on Wednesday. Very muddy trail for the first several miles to Navajo Lake. Firm snow hiking past the lake, but the couloir I tried to climb consisted of thigh-deep postholing and I ruled out the North Buttress route because of high winds. Should have brought snowshoes! 
2015-10-11  Route: North Slopes
Posted On: 2015-10-12, By: RWSchaffer
Info: Trail from Woods Lake was completely free of snow, and the trail from Navajo Lake to the base of the peak had only a few small patches. Snow began as you start up the peak (Photo 1). For the first half of the ascent to the ridge, the sun-softened snow compacted easily underfoot, and the snow-covered rock was mostly frozen in place. As the slope steepened, however, the snow became icy and I turned back rather than proceed without traction and ice axe (Photo 2). For reference, pictures of Mount Wilson (Photo 3) and Wilson Peak (Photo 4). 
2015-09-29  Route: North Slopes
Posted On: 2015-10-02, By: addrock528
Info: Very little snow as one should expect this time of the year. Going up was loose and sketchy. I thought the ascent to Diente was the hardest part of the Diente/Wilson traverse. There was some snow in tricky places that made me glad to have brought my axe. 
2015-09-24  Route: Kilpacker Approach
Posted On: 2015-09-26, By: WillRobnett
Info: Climbed El Diente > Mt Wilson from Kilpacker. We stayed on the ridge for 90% of the traverse peak to peak. Snow/hardpack on the north side standard route for El Diente. Snow later in the traverse descending in front of Mt. Wilson, near the north slope trail. Snow sections are 2 to 3 inches deep with hardpack surface, ice bottom layer. You really need spikes. These areas are exposed. We did the standard route climbing El Diente descending a class 4 ridge to connect our traverse. Stay on the ridge as much possible in the traverse! Loaded shelves with loose rock if you contour below. 
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2015-09-21  Route: South Slopes
Posted On: 2015-09-22, By: LoveThisSite
Info: Like the previous report mentioned, there is compacted snow on the north side once you cross over the ridge (starting with Photo 19 in Bill‘s description). Microspikes highly recommended for that final stretch because of the severe exposure in that area. I was glad I carried them. The rest of the route is completely dry and in great condition. 

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