|2017-03-18||Route: S couloir
Posted On: 2017-03-19, By: Monster5
Info: Jomah, boggy, Kylie and I went up the south couloir starting from Mill Creek and heading up deep creek to skyline. We took the shortcut down (ledge traverse on right above falls). Should've taken the shortcut route up and down as there is some avy terrain and unnecessary gain on the standard approach. 8 mi/5k/13 hrs. Steep snow/5.7 or M3. Snow is in spring shape. Cruiser in the morning, dangerous and post holey in the afternoon. We had intermittent tracks on the approach but mostly set our own. The inset south couloir proper had firm snow up to 50 deg with a kind of sketchy M3ish top out. No ice. We roped for the topout and summit block. The summit block is a pain. We basically summitted via the rappel dihedral ( two short 5.7ish steps). For some reason, there's a fixed line at the crux. We didn't check the rope's condition or its anchor. A better topout option at similar difficulty but sunny and dry would be to go directly from the thumb notch at the top of the couly up the SE face. If I ever do this in winter again, I'd probably go that way as it can be accessed from the standard route too. Descended standard route. Snow up to maybe 45 deg. Some wet slides on the s face. E face pretty nice once the sun left.
Posted On: 2016-07-18, By: Marsh
Info: Still a trace of snow on the north side ramp below the summit block pitch but crampons and ice axe are definitely not necessary.
|2016-07-15||Route: Standard - East Face
Posted On: 2016-07-18, By: BenjiFarson
Info: Climbed Dallas last Friday (7/15/2016) I had it all to myself, wanted to share a few photos as perhaps some folks are interested in snow conditions. The Standard East Face Route is snow free except for a minor amount to contend with at the base of the 5.3 summit tower crux, though very minimal and easy to skirt around - reference the photos for an idea. You'll land in snow coming off the summit rappel once through the chockstone, but again, easy to deal with. Besides this, you're snow-free. It's on. Go get ya' some!
|2015-09-14||Route: mostly standard
Posted On: 2015-09-17, By: TallGrass
Info: Clean and dry until clouds rolled in, then light rain, graupel (hail), and flurries. Absolutely no snow below the car-sized chock stone nor anywhere else we saw, but did see snow on parts from Telluride the next day. Took bypass up to above chockstone. Rap station at top and a 30m will work (under 15m distance). Couldn‘t find the north chimney with weather deteriorating. Scrambled up some some 1-3‘ blocks to get above the chock stone. Face about ~20‘ to the right with a belay ledge to lead up a flake wall, starts on the left, traverses to the right and over a protruding body block, then up a crack on the right, under a headwall block to the right again, to gain the summit between the rap block and summit cairn. Rap block had cord/webbing bundle and 3 uniform quicklinks. Also a free cord (white/blue) used in conjunction with slings to make a top belay anchor. PAY ATTENTION TO RAP ROPE AT QUICKLINKS to insure clean pull down at end of rap. DAMHIK. We paired two 30m Beal Randos (8mm). Recommend: LEAVE EARLY so you reach the base of Dallas at dawn. Trail is easy to follow by headlamp with only two junctions from the TH (Wiebe/Last Dollar, Sneffels Highline). Last chance for water crosses trail at Dallas base. Take 7-36‘ feet of webbing or cordlette and three quick links. Summit rap block:~24‘, lower 4th class 6-7‘, and rest for bypass or contingencies. Have windproof lighter to melt cut ends. Photos: 1. "4th class" rap station below summit towers. UV-faded cord double half-hitched to a beat up red sling looped around block. Removed sling, retied cord as secondary with fisherman‘s, and added neon yellow webbing and steel quick link. Left old rap ring. Could use another 7‘ of webbing or cord to replace old cord, maybe another QL too to ease rope bend. 2. Summit towers. Can climb up from inside on right thru small hole (Roach‘s "Chock it Up" 5.?), or around right via bypass (did latter to summit and former to try and free rope). Tougher option is from inside left through rap hole. 3. Looking up bypass. Work left foot up until can reach solid hand holds. Rap station atop. 4. Vertical 120-degree pano with chockstone hole bottom, wall middle, and summit top. Possibly rapp-able w/ 30m rope, but make sure knotted ends reach. Mulled as ascent pitch with exit at "?". 5. Final pitch used, ~20‘ right of chockstone. Couple OP link cams and BD #3 used, but flakes hollow. Backpack will catch on overhang. 6. Wineguy on summit with me readying rap. Flake wall topout on right. 7. Descent. Pay attention to all cairns and landmarks, look behind you often, take photos, and leave seemingly ubiquitous cairns on bluebird days alone for situations like this. Took a while to get below cloud cover.
Posted On: 2014-09-13, By: KTC88
Info: North face is holding a little ice and snow, but can be avoided where necessary when climbing the summit pitch. No need for microspikes. South and East Faces are dry.
|2014-08-30||Route: East Face
Posted On: 2014-09-03, By: Tommy Dorr
Info: The summit pitch (North Face) had snow and ice. It‘s an easy enough lead though.
|2014-07-05||Route: Mill Creek
Posted On: 2014-07-06, By: Yikes
Info: Main route in decent condition (for Dallas). Very few patches of snow. Maybe 15 feet of snow below crux move but wasn‘t much of an obstacle. Rest of summit pitch was dry. 90 ft rap will place you below the chockstone, but you will need to downclimb snow about 30 feet.
|2014-06-12||Route: North Face
Posted On: 2014-06-13, By: goreskier
Info: Climbed and skied the north face of dallas peak yesterday. snow holding well. bit of dust layer still making for s--tty skiing down low, but excellent up high. steep turns off the top of ridge.
|2013-08-18||Route: std via Mill Ck
Posted On: 2013-08-19, By: Monster5
Info: Route is completely dry. Once above the trail on the grass slog, look for a well-cairned and traveled social trail that climbs left and up through the initial c3 cliffs on the right side of the debris flow gully . Presently, the trail/cairns are fairly easy to follow all the way around right and up through the c3/c4 bands/gullies to the Gilpin connecting ridge. After the stiff c4 move and short downclimb, the stepover bulge can be avoided by climbing up briefly to a higher ledge (c2+). The exposed summit pitch is a single move of low 5th; rest is 4th. Up the left angled crack, switch over right briefly before scrambling up. We had a party of 4 and a single rope, so we belayed just through the crux and scrambled the rest. Throwing a rope down seemed an annoying prospect. Recommended rack: BD .75 (horizontal crack protects the crux perfectly), a few mid-sized nuts double lengths for anchors. If one were to sew it up, an additional BD 1 and 2 would do. Webbing at all three stations (summit, summit pitch bail point, optional lower 4th class section) was in good condition and the summit orange webbing/aluminum rap ring were just placed by josephg‘s group 8/17. Mileage ~12. Cruiser trail. 4AM start put us just below the first difficulties at first light (consistent average pace). I felt the crux move was slightly spicier than Teakettle‘s crux move. Probably due to the increased exposure. Dallas‘ approach was more tedious, slightly more exposed, and longer, but Teakettle‘s approach was looser (dinner plates). Pictures last quarter of here: https://picasaweb.google.com/105978537438093356597/TrurosAndDallas08182013
Posted On: 2013-08-10, By: mikefromcraig
Info: Just a heads up, Roach lists this as 9.3 miles. I WISH!!! Our gps says 12.5 and we stayed on the trail almost perfectly. Also, I think Roach says something about always expecting ice. There were two other climbers who apparently took that advice and brought ice axes but they looked pretty funny as there was no ice is site. Oh, and Roach says this is the hardest centennial but I didn‘t think it was any harder than teakettle and my partner says that it was actually easier.
Posted On: 2012-10-25, By: FireOnTheMountain
Info: I know its super late and the conditions have changed but here you go nonetheless. South face dry and loose. North face cold and snowy. Didn‘t descend 30-60‘ from the notch down the north face because that looked sketch with the conditions. Instead pitched out a traverse up from the notch to the base of the crux pitch. Ledges snowy. Super fun climb!
Posted On: 2012-07-01, By: Summit Lounger
Info: Standard East face route is free of snow. Snow on ramp to North face is 2 feet wide and is easily avoided on dry rock next to it. No snow on final pitch to summit. Snow is well below chockstone on descent. Water was still running in small creek where one leaves the Sneffels Highline trail to start ascending South slopes. Not sure how much longer though.
|2012-06-09||Route: Mill Creek
Posted On: 2012-06-14, By: uwe
Info: Mill Creek Rd open to TH. Parking no issues. Route to 13,500, clear. From 13,500 to summit block - snow, ice, wet. Need to work through a belay to get to the actual summit block. Roach‘s standard route snow covered and completely exposed. We watched Steve & Brit rappel down form the summit and we turned back to camp for another try the next day. After getting beta from them, we pulled the plug and reloaded this peak for August. They said it took them 5 hours to problem solve their way to the summit with a ‘spotter‘. Our group was 5 and would have taken longer. So close...