|2015-06-14||Route: Savage Couloir
Posted On: 2015-06-14, By: falcon568
Info: Thanks to Wildernessjane for the earlier condition report, it played a key role in selecting this route. The stream crossing off the 4WD TH is a pain, not a lot of options with current insane amounts of water, I opted for just wearing an extra pair of boots with my pants rolled up and forging across. 0240 start, got lost twice before deciding to forget the trail and go with map and compass. I didn‘t have a hard freeze, so snowshoes were a must. Snow conditions on the couloir were ok with a near-freeze. The route‘s definitely in, but a little softer snow that I‘d like to see due to the warmer temps. This made the direct exit somewhat sketchy. There‘s a pseudo cornice before the couloir top out that puts the angle around 70 degrees if you go up and over. With soft snow, not the best conditions. Still passed the water test, but I definitely wouldn‘t want a later start.
|2015-06-09||Route: Savage Couloir
Posted On: 2015-06-10, By: Wildernessjane
Info: Tons of snow below tree line still. We got a 2:45 am start but burned up some time bushwhacking through the trees in deep snow. We gave up on looking for the trail in the dark. We didn‘t have any trouble with the stream crossing via the route we took. The couloir was in great condition for climbing and kicking in steps, though there was a lot of avi debri so I‘m not sure how much fun it would be to ski or board. The couloir was in the sun by 5:30 am so get an early start on this one. We descended via the mellow ridge just to the south of the one the standard route goes up because it was mostly dry and we were able to cut off some time.
|2014-06-28||Route: Savage Couloir
Posted On: 2014-07-01, By: Col_Forbin
Info: Snow is discontinuous to the summit, but the route is still in at least for climbing. We had to bail due to rockfall/warming temps. Evidence of copious rockfall is present in the snow. Approach is dry, don‘t leave the trail too early. Creek crossings were no issue.
|2014-06-18||Route: Savage Couloir
Posted On: 2014-06-21, By: mdmss
Info: Found a snow bridge across the creek, so no log balancing shenanigans required. Not sure how long it will last. Top of the direct finish a little melted out, maybe 5-10 feet of scree scrambling. Left hand finishes looked worse. We came down the boot skiing bowl, which was exciting with a thin layer of glycerine snow over hard neve. Some postholing on hike out, but mostly avoidable by carefully choosing the darker snow.
|2013-05-26||Route: Savage Couloir
Posted On: 2013-05-26, By: rpb13
Info: Savage Couloir is in nice shape right now. Saw evidence of recent rockfall in couloir but didn‘t experience any during the climb. We were able to climb good snow all the way to the summit. Snow angle is around 40 degrees for the most part and up to 45-50 for very short sections. The approach is 99 percent snow, skis or snowshoes are definitely needed.