|2017-01-28||Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 2017-01-29, By: maurer_kg
Info: Wow, this ridge is looking great since the last storm. Nice snow cover everywhere. Snow is reasonably soft, making for easy, secure travel across the ridge. Most of our group used microspikes or mountaineering boots on the ridge with no problem. Snowshoes were useful on the approach and also across the first plateau leading up to the ridge climb proper.
|2016-12-23||Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 2016-12-24, By: jmhasse01
Info: Three of us climbed the West Ridge of Atlantic Peak on December 23rd, 2016. We approached the ridge from Mayflower Gulch on skis and broke trail the entire way. We had a favorable CAIC forecast and used Caltopo to plot a reasonable safe route through the avalanche terrain surrounding Pacific Creek to gain the ridge. Once on the ridge we found variable conditions, alternating between deep snow and light snow over talus. We carried ice axes and crampons but never needed to use them. Microspikes might be nice, but not required. For photos and a trip report, check here: http://www.carpemons.com/2016/12/west-ridge-of-atlantic-peak-december.html
|2016-07-26||Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 2016-07-27, By: flyingmagpie
Info: Climbed Atlantic by the standard "West Ridge" route. Was uncertain about conditions, so carried an ice axe and traction. Found out I didn't need either. Remaining snowfields are avoidable by passing above or below them. Only one snowfield, which Bill's route description calls the "crux" of the route, laps over the ridge east to west and completely covers it. I passed below that one on the east side. Even though this route is only 4 miles round trip, it feels longer because of the steepness and relative difficulty of the terrain once you leave the use trail and start up the talus. Found the use trail just fine after crossing the creek through the willows. If you look closely at the willows you can see at least a couple places where other climbers have been going through them. Waterproof boots are helpful here so you don't soak your socks right at the start. Use trail is right where logic says it should be. Finding it saves some time. Once you are on the talus, you have to pay close attention to your feet to avoid loose and tippy rock. I got going about 6 am from the end of the Mayflower Gulch 4wd road. Summitted about 9, was back to the Jeep about 11:30. When I started out it was cool, even cold in the valley, but as I began to parallel Pacific Creek I warmed up and the sun got high enough that I could take off a t-shirt. One of the problems with this route is that with an early morning start, moving west to east, you are climbing directly into the sun. Hard to scout the route ahead. By the time I summited, the sky had become overcast, and ten minutes after I got back to the Jeep, a light rain began falling. Lots of snow remains on the east slopes of Atlantic this year, below the summit and extending along the ridge toward Fletcher. That's why I decided on the West Ridge route. This climb took enough out of me that when I looked at the distance to Pacific, and judged the sky and weather, I ruled getting two peaks this day completely out. I was tired, didn't really have the energy, and though there was no thunder, I didn't want to descend slick rock if it did shower.
|2016-06-27||Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 2016-06-27, By: AyeYo
Info: Road is clear to the gate. Route is snow free with two major exceptions. 1. The normal ridge approach slope still has a large snow field. It was a post hole fest at 9am, so I backtracked and went up the nose of the ridge, which is dry. 2. The knife edge just before the summit remains. At 11am the snow was bullet proof. I attempted to walk in someone's prior (very shallow) steps, but couldn't get more than the point of the axe in. I attempted to also use their axe holes, but most of those were equally shallow. Kicking steps was impossible and micro spikes provided almost no purchase. I turn around half way across. With crampons it might have been possible to face in and side step using the pick of the axe instead. There is a class 4 bypass to the south, but the rock is lose. The guy that did it in trail runners a couple weeks ago either has massive balls or much softer snow.
|2016-06-20||Route: V couloir
Posted On: 2016-06-20, By: SnowAlien
Info: So we went to ski Fletcher from McCaulough gulch. Y couloir looked melted out at the choke and other lines didn't look very appealing. At the same time, Atlantic was staring at us straight in the face from the drive in. Yo, money, what should we ski? I think we should ski the money line. Sure enough, it was right on the money (fat and smooth and in from the summit). In better shape than last time I skied it. We skied down to about 12k, so still about 1,800 ft vert, although the flat part is pretty grabby on the skis due to dust. TH access : Technically, McCaulough gulch TH is still closed, but the current gate closure is only 0.5 mi from the actual TH. It took us 3.5 hours to the summit.
|2016-06-11||Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 2016-06-12, By: JtheChemE
Info: Road open, but drivable ~1/4 mile. Crossed creek east of the drainage confluence, lots of water moving. Ridge holding only snow only at the usual winter knife edge locations & summit. Ridge doable in trailrunners with an early start and the proper approach.
|2016-02-21||Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 2016-02-22, By: AlexeyD
Info: Made it to a few hundred feet below the false summit before turning around after encountering a really sketchy snow section. Basically, it was a knife edge with a cornice on one side, and really loaded, unstable snow on the other, extending right to the top. Guess my concerns about the recent very strong SW winds loading usual aspects proved right. See photos for detail (though they don't quite capture the whole story). Also: we ended up contouring too far left (north) around the nose of the ridge, rather than simply head up at its lowest (and probably safest) point. We gained the ridge via a broad snow slope from a point near the Mayflower Hill-Atlantic saddle. The slope itself seemed fairly stable (drift pattern suggests wind was blowing across the slope, rather than loading from the top), but some parts along the traverse seemed a bit suspect. Suggest following the line shown in David Cooper's book, rather than going as far left as we did. We wore snowshoes almost the entire time. A few sections along the ridge have rocks interspersed with snow that made it quite awkward with snowshoes on, but the amount of crusty, posthole-able snow made us reluctant to remove them. Guess it's a bit of pick-your-poison from the 12,400' shoulder onwards. Despite not summitting, it was a gorgeous day up there with beautiful weather and stellar views.
|2015-07-12||Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 2015-07-15, By: jwagner
Info: Atlantic‘s west ridge is mostly snow free. We crossed one unavoidable 60 foot section about 300 feet from the top. It is soft and there are steps in it that make it mostly easy for experienced person to walk across without traction. It is an exposed steep cornice on the south side and a moderate snow slope on the north side. The rest of ridge is mostly snow free and you can walk around the sections that aren‘t.
|2015-06-22||Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 2015-06-22, By: BagginPeaks
Info: Traversed from Pacific over to Atlantic ans descended the west ridge. Lots of snow on this ridge still, most avoidable, but I ended up doing a lot of class 3 moves below the ridge to avoid the snow. Talus hopping on the way down sucked.. The start of this ridge and most of it on the way to the summit is large loose talus with very faint trail segments.
|2015-04-04||Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 2015-04-04, By: Unknown
Info: Snowshoes are still quite helpful from the beginning of the trees to the ridge. We stashed snowshoes at the beginning of the ridge. The exposed portions of the ridge are fun right now, but beware of the monster cornice on your right as you get up to the last fun part. I advise you go more left than you think you should. When you get past this cornice and look back, you‘ll understand why.
|2015-03-07||Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 2015-03-09, By: JtheChemE
Info: Road plowed and ice free to the TH. From TH, the 4WD road hardpacked snowshoe/skin train. Leaving TH, the drainage leading to pacific was deep snow, but our group of 6 laid down a solid track. Once out of the drainage, gained the west ridge from the N slopes via a more westerly (climbers right) track to avoid convex snow loaded feature. Snow on this slope ranged from 8" posthole to very hardpack w/ice layer. We manged w/ snowshoes going up, and kicked steps on the downclimb. West ridge good mixed climbing, short boulder slope w/some class 3 snow covered feature. Once on ridge proper, ditched snowshoes. The ridge was a great snowclimb, posthole to knee while negotiating snow knife-edge. Be wary of cornices, there was one very large in particular where caution is needed. Always be sure that you are on the ridge. Summit was great, completely snow covered. Bluebird skies, and no wind til the downclimb. Overall, 5 hrs up (plenty of photo breaks, snacks etc) and 2 hrs down.
|2014-10-25||Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 2014-10-26, By: mikemalick
Info: Did Roach‘s "West Winds Classic" starting from the Mayflower Gulch upper TH. Gained Atlantic via traverse from Pacific where it was easy to avoid snow. Descended Atlantic via its West Ridge route. There was a lot more snow along the ridge than I was expecting based on what I could see from the upper TH vantage. Had microspikes with me. A couple times I tried just left of ridgeline on descent to stay off snow, but the rock on that side was very loose so I ended up sticking o ridge as much as possible. Keep in mind today‘s weather moving in could change all this quite a bit.
|2014-08-30||Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 2014-08-30, By: LetsGoMets
Info: Excellent conditions from the Boston Mine all the way up the West Ridge, minus the initial bushwhack, which was very wet and soggy. Also bagged Pacific Peak (and subsequently re climbed Atlantic). Large snow spots easily avoided in the Atlantic to Pacific traverse.
|2014-06-15||Route: V couloir
Posted On: 2014-06-15, By: SnowAlien
Info: Summer TH access, dry to the gate. Snow line starts near 11.8k. The (looker‘s) left branch of V couloir provided the most obvious continuous ski descent line from Atlantic summit, so that‘s the line we skied (ascended the saddle between Atlantic & Pacific). Couloir conditions are variable - nice smooth corn in top 2/3, and more runnely, rock-infested, dusty snow in lower third, where caution is advised. Prob will be in another week or so. Also tagged Pacific from the ridge with Atlantic with the ski descent to the tarn lake.
|2013-06-29||Route: Atlantis, maybe
Posted On: 2013-06-30, By: jeremy27
Info: Climbed what we thought might have been atlantis - though I‘m still not sure. Nice supportive snow all morning. A little crusty and mushy in the afternoon but still surprisingly good. Mccullough gulch still holds enough snow that an ice axe is needed if you plan to hike up or descend down the saddle to pacific. Not going to last much longer. Good luck.
|2011-09-24||Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 2011-09-25, By: JosephG
Info: Can‘t remember who asked for it, but Atlantic, Pacific, and Crystal all are mostly snow-free. Minimal snow on the upper slopes (soft powder, unconsolidated), almost entirely on the west or north aspects. Trail runners still adequate. No need for axe or really any traction, subject to personal preference.
|2011-06-04||Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 2011-06-04, By: mrickers
Info: Did Atlantic via the West Ridge this morning... 4WD road is impassable still from the 2WD parking lot and will be for a long time yet. Snow the entire way up to the ridge proper. I wore snowshoes until then, and stashed them at the base of the ridge. They are not needed for the ridge...I brought crampons but didn‘t use them. The snow was very solid and there is only one spot that got my attention. There is still a pretty big cornice roughly halfway up, but it is easily traversed with care. A lot of the snow on the ridge can be avoided as well. Get an early start or you will be post-holing like crazy in the trees. Go out and get it...the West Ridge is in prime shape for ascents!