Mt. Meeker  
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2016-10-22  Route: Meeker Ridge
Posted On: 2016-10-23, By: dereks95
Info: Conditions couldn't be better for mid-October. We started at the Horse Creek trailhead - a less-used access point to Meeker ridge that will save you 2 miles and 500 feet of climbing. The trail to Lookout Mtn is in great shape with a minor dusting of snow near the saddle. From the saddle, cairns were easy to follow up the Meeker Ridge to treeline. From there the route is obvious. Wind was pretty strong and gusty so we occasionally dropped to the east (right) side of the ridge to get a break from the breeze. There is minor snow on that side of the ridge but nothing to be concerned about. We had microspikes but never used them. The knife edge is completely clear of snow and ice - wind will be your biggest factor. I took it slow crossing the ridge because the occasional 30+ mph gust can knock you off balance. 
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2016-10-01  Route: The Loft up Meeker Ridge/NE ridge down
Posted On: 2016-10-03, By: jmanner
Info: Not sure how useful this is with the winter storm coming up, but I went up to Meeker from the loft and down over Meeker Ridge and the Iron Gates on Saturday. In short, there was a bunch of freeze thaw snow on the ramp that leads up to the Loft, so I climbed straight up the head wall( this was not an intentional act it just seemed "right" at the time"). The loft and the ridge over to Meeker Ridge were snow free and the Iron Gates were also snow free, except some rime on the rocks(objectively the closest I actually got to injury). I may or may not write a trip report describing my terror of climbing that headwall up to the Loft. 
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2016-09-18  Route: Southwest Ridge
Posted On: 2016-09-19, By: jkjkjk13gcs
Info: Solo hiked the Southwest Ridge starting at the Sandbeach Lake trailhead. Route was completely free of snow until the final 50-75 feet where the light dusting of snow from the last storm was mostly avoidable or easy to navigate through without traction. Strong gusts of wind made the ridgeline a bit more interesting, but overall great summer conditions with mild temps! Roundtrip climb time of approximately 9 hours. 
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2016-08-29  Route: Southwest Ridge
Posted On: 2016-08-29, By: madadraw1
Info: Once you leave Sandbeach Lake Trail going to the Northwest along Hunter Creek, it does get a little wet. Not horribly so but my socks got wet enough to make my toes numb at the summit. Changed socks, then no problem. Not as much bushwhacking as I thought there would have been. When the trail along Hunter Creek ends, you can easily find fairly clear areas to follow. Still, wish I would have brought gaiters to prevent getting some thorns in my socks/shoes. Also, when the trail ends by Hunter Creek, don't go too far to the East (to the right). I missed the Rocky Ridge (that you should stay to the left of) and ended up above it. However, I was still able to get right where I needed to be and it wasn't that bad anyhow. Most of the rock is fairly stable on this hike, not much slipping even on the descent. When hiking up to the final summit ridge, I stayed a little further right where there was maybe easy class 3. Definitely not difficult but a little more direct and fun. I used my GPS which was very helpful...even though it had me up on top of the rocky ridge! Next time I'll put in a way point ahead of time. Plenty of solitude. I didn't see anyone else on the trail today. 
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2016-06-15  Route: dreamweaver
Posted On: 2016-06-15, By: dereferenced
Info: Dreamweaver's still in okay shape, probably a few weeks past prime conditions. The bottom few constrictions are melting, mixed climbs. The top two have good continuous ice. I descended the loft around 10 AM, conditions were great for glissading or running downhill, not very slushy yet. The exit ramp up to the loft is partially covered in snow, mostly melted higher up. I couldn't be sure from a distance, but Martha looked totally melted out for a big section in the middle. 
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2016-06-12  Route: North Side
Posted On: 2016-06-13, By: emgordon
Info: Photo from Lily Lake. Driving past, Meeker Ridge mostly clear and Dragon's Egg still holding snow near top. 
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2016-05-20  Route: Southwest Ridge
Posted On: 2016-05-23, By: smartt
Info: Avalanche debris field. Slid from about 13,600ft to debris at 12,000ft 
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2016-01-23  Route: Loft Couloir
Posted On: 2016-01-25, By: Dad Mike
Info: Trailhad...Longs Peak Route...Longs Peak Trail to Crater Lake Trail to Loft Couloir to SE Longs to Meeker to Meeker Ridge down Iron Gates Notes... -No snowshoes needed -Snow in the Loft is firm -Crux is tricky...you have 2 options to get through the cliff band *20‘ ice section...started to climb this, but didn‘t feel comfortable with a dull axe and no ice tool *tricky traverse around a ledge system that gets you to the upper snowfield...I would not advise this option in it‘s current conditions -knife edge between Meeker and Meeker Ridge is dry -Iron Gates route is basically dry 
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2015-09-22  Route: Loft, Iron Gates
Posted On: 2015-09-22, By: C-Shepguy
Info: Meeker (or Longs) can still be climbed via the Loft without winter gear as of today. It was unseasonably warm up there, and recent snow dusting is gone. Couple small avoidable patches of ice/snow on the loft exit ramp. I went over Meeker to Iron Gates, all clear. Talked to a Longs summiter at the trail head who was fine on keyhole without winter gear, also. Get it while it lasts (probably not long!) 
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2015-06-20  Route: The Loft
Posted On: 2015-06-20, By: Jonathanlawrence6
Info: Arrived at the trailhead at 2:30. Weather was great. Ice axe and crampons are a must. The shadow area from Chasm Lake to the traverse up the Loft is all snow. There is a short section of ice and wet rock up the traverse. Then crampons and axes again for another 25 minutes. The boulder field is mostly melted and all snow can be avoided. Slow and easy I made my first ice climb in 10 hours. We were passed by 4 climbers who went up Dream Weaver. They must have been pacing 8 hours. They were fast. Today was a great day for a hike. 
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2014-06-28  Route: Iron Gates
Posted On: 2014-06-28, By: cougar
Info: didn‘t climb it (very windy today up there), but the gully up the Iron Gates route is snow free, as is all of Meeker Ridge, a bit wet from the recent rains and dusting of snow though. Upper 2/3 of the Loft still holding snow with a break in the middle over wet slabs. The couloirs on Meeker are thinning out, especially the upper parts, and looking like mixed routes right now. 
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2014-05-18  Route: Dreamweaver
Posted On: 2014-05-22, By: Matt Lemke
Info: Did Dreamweaver last Sunday...trail up to treeline was very well packed to Chasm Lake. Snow headed up towards Dreamweaver on the Apron was still soft and post-holey. Saw big avalanches coming off Longs all morning and bombarding the Notch Couloir and Broadway. Parties turned back when they saw these. Reached the base of the couloir after what felt like hours of slogging and started climbing. Deep snow in the couloir and no ice on any of the steps. Soloed the entire route up to the final crux step which we roped up for and placed one piece. All the screws and cams I brought weren‘t used. Finished the slog up to the summit and descended the Loft which was terrifying and likely the most objective danger I ever put myself in. Had that steep slope right before the ledge slid we probably would have died. Wet slides were found everywhere. Once below the ledge on the Loft route, easy plunge stepping ensued and the hike out went smoothly. Saw parties on Martha all day and another party descended Iron Gates. Traverse to Meeker Ridge and Iron Gates descent was snowy but doable. Iron Gates descent itself had lots of talus. Photo descriptions: 1. Avalanche coming off Longs 2. Looking towards the Flying Buttress and the apron 3. Sam on the last crux step (the only part we were roped) 4. Loft Route descent 
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2014-04-12  Route: Southwest Ridge
Posted On: 2014-04-12, By: rambis_21
Info: Hey! Went and hiked Mt. Meeker via the Loft route today. Had pleasant weather with light winds. Sun behind the hazy clouds was very nice through the morning into early afternoon. Kept the snow from softening up (which could have been detrimental). Nonetheless, we hiked up the main trail which is boot packed basically all the way to above treeline. Microspikes/crampons helpful, hard pack snow. Headed up to Chasm lake. One large snowfield under Mt. Washington -- solid but has had recent running water going over it. Snow field all the way up the loft was solid (we followed fellow hiker footsteps which was awesome! Stair climbers!). Top of the loft was sketchy, we didn‘t feel comfortable at all. Took the standard route on the ledge and up. Crossed the ridge of Meeker and came down between the iron gates and headed out. Was a challenging hike but was worth it. Snow conditions were great today. No recent signs of slides. Can stay on rocks in a lot of areas as well avoiding snow. 
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2013-06-29  Route: Iron Gates
Posted On: 2013-06-30, By: jlarson630
Info: The Iron Gates route is snow free all the way to the summit and has been for the last couple weeks. Met some guys who climbed the Meeker Ridge route and it is also apparently snow free. Saw a number of people climbing the Loft but it looked like there was still a fair bit of snow in it. Unfortunately, did not get the chance to meet any of them and ask about gear/conditions. Someone had signed the Meeker summit register that morning before we summited and mentioned they were doing the grand slam...I hope they were able to do it before the midday storms rolled in. 
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2012-10-20  Route: Iron Gates
Posted On: 2012-10-20, By: scramble
Info: Woah it was completely dry. FYI the route up to the loft looked like it had some snow and ice. The trail to chasm lake was dry. Maybe some little patches of snow on trail or beneath the talus. Basically just like summer scrambling! The wind was different at different times and at different places on the mountain. Some of the strongest/most sustained wind of the day was at the beginning of the knife edge, so we ended up turning around there. Believe the hype! Amazingly beautiful. 
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2012-06-23  Route: Iron Gates
Posted On: 2012-06-23, By: Monster5
Info: Meeker Ridge->Meeker->Longs->Pagoda->Storm Peak B Dry or avoidable snow; no gear used. Iron Gates: Dry, class 2+ talus hop. Meeker Ridge to Meeker: Dry, exposed class 3, obvious route-finding. Solid rock. Not fun with wind. Upper Clark‘s arrow route: One c4 move, mostly c2+/3. One snow patch past the notch: bypass left (downhill) before joining Homestretch. The Loft "couloir" looked mostly dry with small, avoidable patches. Homestretch: Dry, more like exposed c2+. Route to Pagoda: Descended left at base of Homestretch before cutting back right beneath the Narrows cliffs (c2). Aimed for the saddle and encountered a sizable hidden cliff band - moved left (after getting cliffed out trying other routes) to descend a large, prominent gully (c3). Moved right (towards saddle) below major cliffs and above minor ones before a talus hop from the saddle up Pagoda (c2). The re-ascent of Longs is annoying. Reverse the route but climb a left-angling weakness to intersect the Keyboard of the Winds ridge, which can be followed to the top of the Trough (exposed c3). Trough: Dry or easily avoided snow. Loose c2/3. Smells like a sewer in spots. Ledges: Dry. Moderately exposed 2/3. The bulls-eyes are pretty hard to miss. Keyhole to Storm and down: c3, annoying talus hop. Bypass towers on the right side. Lingering snow to avoid on the descent as they hide leg-breakers. Other obs: Notch Couloir is in with a dry chimney. Small snow patches on Broadway. Dreamweaver is pretty much out. Nothing in Martha. 
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2012-06-12  Route: Loft
Posted On: 2012-06-13, By: rockymountaindiva
Info: Trail clear of snow most of the way. Snowfield was very hard in early a.m., so avoided it by climbing class 3/4 rock to climber‘s left. Some very icy snow on the ledge, ice ax & crampons or microspikes/yaktrax advised. On descent, snowfield had softened slightly on top but still icy and rock hard underneath, used crampons for about 1/2 of snowfield (past the steepest rock), then downclimbed on rock the remainder of the way. 
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2012-05-03  Route: Iron Gates
Posted On: 2012-05-06, By: WDavis
Info: Very cool route. Having done the keyhole route up Longs numerous times, I enjoyed the shorter mileage up the iron gates to the summit of Meeker (~10mi). There are still some lare drifts below treeline but above it is dry. The morning I went up (May 3) it had snowed the night before but it all melted by that afternoon. Take care on the knife edge. Glad I brought crampons as it was wet with snow. I would not have attempted it in just my boots. If you do it anytime soon, take crampons just in case. Descended via the snowfield below the loft. If you do this, be sure not to miss the ramp as I did. You‘ll get stuck doing some dangerous down climbing otherwise. 
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2011-06-19  Route: Dreamweaver
Posted On: 2011-06-20, By: Voodoo302
Info: Patchy snow to Chasm Junction, trail finding can be difficult in the dark (we were 15 minutes past the jct toward Granite Pass before we realized we‘d missed it). Lots of snow in the snowfield below the Loft; pretty much solid from the top of the Loft to the Chasm Lake privy. Dreamweaver is in excellent snow/mixed conditions: firm snow, decent ice in the steps, and minimal bare rock. Get an early start though because the descent off the loft was prettty soft by 1030. 
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2011-06-11  Route: Dreamweaver
Posted On: 2011-06-14, By: JonW
Info: Snow in the couloir was in great shape but softens up quickly in the morning sun. Snow patches up to Chasm Lake. Route cruxes were mostly rock with a little ice. Route was stepped out. Descent via the loft is the best option. 
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