|2016-07-06||Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 2016-07-07, By: TravelingMatt
Info: This was an abandoned attempt for several reasons, primarily a blister on my toe that made every step excruciating. Anyway, I started from Yankee Boy Basin and gained the ridge via Blue Lake Pass on the north end of the ridge. I went this way because substantial snow blocked easy access to the south col much closer to Gilpin's summit. Ascending to the south col is recommended, due to the ridge's undulating nature and a loose, steep section just to the north of the south col that must be negotiated when traversing from the (more northerly) Blue Lake Pass. See first pic; didn't try the steep part but may go Class 4. From the south col, the route up to Gilpin's summit involves ascending the gully on the ridge's left/east side, and snow seemed to block easy entrance to this gully. At the top of the gully is a deep cornice as well. See second pic. Long story short, "summer conditions" on this peak still seem a couple weeks away.