"Sunlight Spire"

Condition Updates  
Route: Standard Route
Posted On: 2021-07-15, By: timewarp01
Info: This was one hell of a climb! Summit anchor chain from 2016 is still in great shape, and cleaner than in previous reports. There are still three solid gear placements along the length of the crack (including an ancient piton and ring), but they're far enough apart that we needed a lot of cams to make it up. The approach to the base of the spire involves some 3rd class, then downclimbing a large flake to a flat spot before shimmying up a chimney. We felt comfortable getting to that point without roping up, but rapped the chimney on the way out. Super hazy day in the basin, and we just had time to bag the spire and Sunlight before a huge storm system moved in. It'll probably be dumping rain for the rest of the week. 
Route: Standard route - aid
Posted On: 2018-08-08, By: Eli Boardman
Info: Approach ledge starts around 13.7k and has a few cairns. There's 2 good fixed pieces (maybe 3, I can't remember) in the crack. Summit anchor is solid (large bolt and chain, tricam and hex with webbing). Middle anchor (on ledge west of midpoint of crack) is 2 pitons with questionable webbing (I used it, probably better to replace the webbing though). Lower anchor (base of crack) is in good shape with several slings around a block. 
2 1
Route: Standard Route
Posted On: 2017-08-18, By: Hjelmstadlt
Info: The Spire is as grand and crazy as ever. I cleaned up the top anchor, because when I topped out it was a bit messy. Now the anchor consists of a Bolt with a chain and rap ringplaced last September, a bomber hex, and a large tricam with some webbing and cord attached to the other rap ring. The old ¼ inch bolt is marked with a historic artifact tag and has a mess of old webbing attached to it. The permagear in ascending order consists of a small nut about 10ft off the deck, a large nut about 30-40ft and an old piton with a ring alittle over half way. all of it still looks to be in great shape! Trip report coming soon! 

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