Route: North Ridge Posted On: 7/12/2023, By: colekics Info: Started at around 3:15 am from willow creek TH, at willow lake at about 5 am. Once the "trail" to the north ridge diverges from the standard route (via challenger), route finding is a bit messy. Once the actual trail ends, I ended up following sparse cairns to the left of all of the bushwhack. They guided me along rockier areas but then you have to cross a stream and then recross it again. Like the previous report said there are a few snowfields under Kirk couloir to cross to get up to OB couloir, but you can nearly completely avoid them by simply staying on the rocks and climbing to a point where the snow to cross is at a minimum. Once actually on the face going up to the ridge, there are some wet spots down low but the actual tough stuff higher on the face and on the actual ridge is completely dry. |
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Route: Via Challenger Point Posted On: 7/9/2023, By: triordie Info: We did the North ridge route from a high camp at Willow Lake. A couple of snow crossings before you reach the class 4 portion. First, Kirk couloir lower potion, was icy and need both ice are and crampons or spikes. We only had axes and could not safely cross it, ended up going higher to get to a narrow crossing. Two more crossings were softer already at 7 am and were easily crossed with are only. The ridge portion is totally dry. From the summit of Kit Carson to the avenue there was absolutely no snow. The avenue had two tiny patches of snow but since the previous reports they shrank and did not present any challenges, can be crossed in boots easily. Going down from Challenger there are three snow field crossings. Not a problem late in the day, we didn't take our axes out for those, but imagine can be tricky early in the morning, traction would be helpful. The class 2 trail down has some running water and is loose as always but nothing extraordinary. |
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Route: Via Challenger Point Posted On: 7/7/2023, By: delaney_wo Info: Echoing my Challenger post, not quite summer conditions yet. Ridge down to KC saddle from Challenger is snow-free, but the Avenue presents three relatively short snow crossings which we felt ice axe and micro spikes were needed. The first crossing is to access the avenue after traversing down to the saddle from Challenger. The next 2 are in between the prow and the wide notch. All other sections of the Avenue were dry or had avoidable snow. Other than that, its a fun, snow-free scramble to the summit. See attached photos for a preview of the snow crossings. |
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Route: Outward Bound Couloir Posted On: 7/4/2023, By: Gibson135 Info: The trail up to the lake is totally clear. The first snow I reached was somewhere near the Kirk Couloir which was pretty solid. I actually went halfway across it and realized it wasn't going to work and put crampons on just to cross it. The snow on OB was great heading up - firm, easy to get solid steps, but also never anything too hard to work with either. After the couloir its all dry from there to the summit. I felt like I stepped through a time machine leaving the ice and snow and suddenly in summer conditions on the other side viewing the top. Beautiful day! |
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Route: Via Challenger Point Posted On: 7/4/2023, By: Swerner Info: Summer conditions up to the lake, then some snow up to Challenger. I'd recommend staying on the rocks on the left side of the big gully up to Challenger to avoid having to cross it a bunch. From Challenger to KC, the Avenue you can see from the summit looks sketchy but it's wider than it looks and it's ok. Around the corner from that there's a bunch more steep snow to cross, and I turned back there. Spikes were useful but I wasn't comfortable continuing further without an axe (which I conveniently left in the car) |
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Route: East Ridge Posted On: 7/4/2023, By: mapreader22 Info: Started from S Colony Lakes 2WD TH. From upper TH to the lakes lots of running water/mud, some downed trees, and minor snowfields on the trail - all easily crossable without poles or traction. Summer conditions from Humboldt saddle to Obstruction Peak. There is snow on the west face of Kitty Kat Carson, but easily bypassed on the right. Minor, unavoidable snow crossing (just a few steps) between Kitty Kat and Columbia Point - was fine without traction. Descended the third gully off Columbia Point on the way to Kit Carson and came back up the second gully - both had minor, avoidable snow. Final climb up Kit Carson snow was mostly avoidable with one minor crossing (similar to between Kitty Kat/Columbia Point) near the summit. Was carrying microspikes but never used them. Considered going over to Challenger Point but this was already a very long day starting from the lower TH so decided not to. Still some snow on the part of KC Ave seen from Columbia (see pic). I really enjoyed this route up KC but this is a very long day with several hours off-trail above tree line - good weather is a must for this route. Also highly recommend starting from the upper TH if doing this in one day - starting from the lower TH added ~2 hrs and makes for a very long day. |
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Route: the Prow Posted On: 6/21/2023, By: shattuckml Info: Climbed Kit Carson via the Prow on Monday 6/19/23. Used Spanish Creek TH. A few things: - Mosquitos were horrible the first 2 miles; plan accordingly and make sure all skin is covered. We knew they were bad and we were still surprised by how horrible it was. - We camped at 11k; it took us ~2hrs to hike to the base of the Prow (13k). The sun hit the prow at approx. 7:30am - much more pleasant if you start in the sun! - Our advice for the descent would be to take the couloir down the whole way! We hopped off and onto the rocks skiers right of the couloir and it slowed us down a bunch. We hopped back on the snow after about 20 minutes on rock. Very nice glissade down the whole way. Got us back to camp in roughly 80 mins. - Still a good amount of running water close to the start of the prow if you want to avoid carrying it to the base. |
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Route: Outward Bound Couloir Posted On: 6/16/2023, By: sdkeil Info: I didn't climb the Outward Bound couloir, but got a great shot of it from 13,580. I just thought I would update the community with a current picture. The appears to still be continuous from the valley floor. |
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Route: Via Challenger Point Posted On: 6/11/2023, By: ashleyelizabeth0312 Info: There are horrible mosquitos for the first mile and in the parking lot but dont worry they go away after that. We were able to summit Challenger Point but had to turn around for Kit Carson due to unsafe snow conditions sloping towards cliffs. There was a ton of snow going up to Challenger so we just climbed the rocks on the left side. Snow all along the ridge to the summit as well. If you have crampons and an axe to self arrest if needed Kit Carson may have been do-able but we didnt feel safe after trying to go up the avenue with that sloping snow, we ended up turning around. The most fun and longest glissade ever down Challenger with deep snow that made it easy to slow down and stop if needed! No snow until past the lake. |
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Route: Via Challenger Point Posted On: 6/12/2023, By: ashleyelizabeth0312 Info: There are horrible mosquitos for the first mile and in the parking lot but dont worry they go away after that. We were able to summit Challenger Point but had to turn around for Kit Carson due to unsafe snow conditions sloping towards cliffs. There was a ton of snow going up to Challenger so we just climbed the rocks on the left side. Snow all along the ridge to the summit as well. If you have crampons and an axe to self arrest if needed Kit Carson may have been do-able but we didnt feel safe after trying to go up the avenue with that sloping snow, we ended up turning around. The most fun and longest glissade ever down Challenger with deep snow that made it easy to slow down and stop if needed! No snow until past the lake. |
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Route: Via Challenger Point Posted On: 6/9/2023, By: NickMoline Info: Didnt use snowshoes. Dry up until you start to leave the valley floor. Ridge had a ton of snow and so did the Avenue. I summitted Challenger successfully but only made it halfway down the Avenue before turning around. It was too warm to trust it on the way back and rocks began falling down from the wall as ice was melting. I tried to cut some steps in the beginning part since there was a WI1 you had to traverse. Dont recommend this route until the snow clears. Warming temperatures are just going to make it harder. If you do try it, climb through the night to avoid the unstable conditions. Crampons and axe absolutely necessary. |
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Route: Kirk Couloir Posted On: 5/29/2023, By: AndyFromDenver Info: I summited both Kit Carson and Challenger via the Kirk Couloir. Trail conditions past the lake are excellent--no need for snowshoes with just a few small spots of snow above the headwall that don't even need traction. The Kirk Couloir was in excellent condition. From the saddle to the summit, it was solid snow the whole way on Kit Carson. The entire avenue was filled with about 45-degree angle snow and crampons and an ice axe are an absolute must if you dare attempt it right now (pictures coming). If I would've been on it any later, it probably would've been too late as the snow was softening by mid-morning since much of the avenue is south-facing. Rather than go up the standard route on KC, I chose the couloir to the climber's left of the standard route and it was in good condition, but also starting to soften as I headed down (I assume this is the route people take from Spanish Creek since this couloir continues down--don't know the name though). Heading back over to the saddle was even a bit spicer as the snow was warming but I made it with no scares. From the saddle to Challenger, just follow the knee-deep postholes up to the summit. It's a slog, but it's short. The descent down the standard route of Challenger was pretty simple, although I took one variation. Rather than go down the standard route, I took the couloir to the skier's right and did a mix of speed walking down the soft snow and glissading (wasn't wearing the best pants for that or I'd have glissaded the majority of it except for the steep part near the top). By noon or so, all this snow was mashed potatoes and I imagine it would be anywhere on the mountain since this is north-facing. Left the trailhead at about 1:30 a.m. and summited KC around 9:50 and Challenger around 11:40. |
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Route: Outward Bound Couloir Posted On: 6/1/2023, By: KevinHadley Info: Packed snow and ice - no flotation needed. Hike to Willow Lake had very little snow, packed down. Snow began at 12k at the entrance to the Couloir and was present to the peak. |
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Route: Spanish Creek Approach Posted On: 5/20/2023, By: 14er101 Info: I was aiming for Coles Couloir, but could not even make it a mile up the Spanish creek approach! High water levels made the trail a river and even the first creek crossing had stuff soaking wet. Lots of annoying deadfalls as well. We described it as "impossible unless you really really want to suffer and are OK getting soaked" Went and played around at the Sand dunes instead. |
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Route: Via Challenger Point Posted On: 4/24/2023, By: AndyFromDenver Info: This will mostly be irrelevant immediately after tomorrow's storm, but I imagine that snow will settle after a few warm days and the conditions will return to the way they were this weekend in the next week or so... The road is still closed 1.2 miles below the trailhead. From there, it was mostly dry with a few packed-snow spots until right around the Willow Creek crossing at 10,900. This is where the snow really starts. On the way up, it was good footing since everything was still frozen. Flotation is needed the last mile to the lake after the big ascent of the headwall. I went back to just boots when I reached the lake and added crampons at the trail junction and they were needed, as well as an ice axe after this. The standard route of Challenger is one of the steepest class 2 routes and in the winter is essentially a couloir. I stayed a bit left of the actual route to make it truly a couloir climb and it was great. Snow was solid through late morning. I ended up turning around 3/4 of the way up the route around noon because I realized I still had probably five hours before I'd begin the descent and I had two friends who were expecting to hear from me by mid-afternoon. Additionally, who knows if the snow would've remained steady late into the day. Looking over towards Kirk Couloir, there were some wet slides there. I'm hoping the snowpack returns to this state soon because I can't wait to go back there. It would've been a 17-hour day had I been successful so expect a slog, but a really fun day of alpine climbing. |
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Route: North Ridge Posted On: 4/12/2023, By: One Sierra Charlie Info: Kit Carson as seen from the summit of Humboldt. |
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Route: Cole/South Couloir Posted On: 4/10/2023, By: andyclimbs Info: Climbed South/Cole Couloir from Spanish Creek with the intent to ski. Trail begins getting snowy after about a mile and a half, but is not skinnable till upper basin. Boot and snowshoe trail all the way to the couloir is in. With a hard overnight freeze, the going on the snow was quick and easy in shoes until past the initial downed trees in the upper basin, where I put on the skins and skis. Skinned to bottom of couloir, then cramponed up couloir and on snow all the way to summit, very fun. Left TH at 4:45am, reached summit at 9:40am. Glorious day up there, not a breath of wind. Started descent at 10am. Difficult skiing from summit to top of couloir, scary variable snow, hardpack windrifts. Some rocks to negotiate. Couloir was too icy to ski from melt freeze conditions. Warm day, and couldn't wait for deep SW facing couloir to get sun and soften, as the SE facing slopes above were melting and rocks were coming down, so had to take off skis, put crampons back on, and descend as quickly as possible to escape overhead hazard. At base of couloir put skis back on, and "skied" out the most variable, unconsolidated mush in existence back to bench where trail drops out of upper basin. Horrible isothermic bottomless collapsible mush that not even skis would float at only 11am. Put shoes back on and walked out down mostly consolidated W facing snow on trail below treeline to car, which was very pleasant compared to travel in upper basin. Based on my experience, I would strongly recommend against considering the Cole/South couloir as a ski descent option at this time. Impossible to balance needing softened snow in the couloir to ski with the exposure from melting rockfall from above, as the couloir itself gets sun much later than the summit slopes perched above it (10:30am the couloir starts getting some sun, not in full sun till 11:00). The timing is just off for managing melt freeze cycle and hazard. For snowshoers/snow climbers, it is a super viable and fun climb option, but be sure to pick a day with a hard overnight freeze, get a very alpine start, move quickly if you intend to descend the same route, and expect a pretty epic wallow on your way out. For those interested in choosing a different escape, I saw no tracks on the avenue or on Challenger. E slopes of Challenger looks to be very well filled in, but looks like wintery snow still with possible wind slabs as of 4/10. Would give it a little time, but it should eventually be good snow climbing or maybe skiing. |
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Route: Outward Bound Couloir Posted On: 4/10/2023, By: aksean22 Info: Bailed at 13,200' due to questionable snow conditions. The road is gated 1.2 miles/700' below the summer trailhead, so expect a little bit of extra walking. The trail is a well traveled mixture of dry, snow, and ice. Flotation needed the last mile to the lake. Not much snow in the upper valley. We skinned through/over a lot of willows and rocks to the base. The snow up high is still very wintery. The apron was mostly hard packed sastrugi with occasional wind drifting. We booted up to the base of the couloir but it wasn't getting any better. I went maybe 100' into the couloir and found a wind slab that we weren't comfortable with so decided to call it. Would not recommend for a few more weeks. |
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Route: Via Challenger Point Posted On: 4/4/2023, By: tonygoes4th Info: Spanish creek route: Easy going the first couple miles. Snowshoes wanted from about 1.5 mi to the base of the couloir. Snow is settling with warmer weather and i had a lot of post holing on the way out during the day. Good trail there now! Couloir was wonderful. Hardpacked and pretty icy. Wouldn't wanna ski it right now but it made a fast climb. Ridge over to the summit had some deep cornices and drifts. Definitely wanna watch your line but it was totally safe for me. As the weather warms up watch for slides up there and in the Couloir. Super windy on the climb (50+ sustained with gusts well in the 70-80 range) but not bad on the summit. Went ahead and took the avenue over and caught the summit of Challenger. Down climbed the gulley on the side of the prow. Pretty wild descent for sure. |
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Route: Spanish creek to south couloir Posted On: 3/14/2023, By: lkk8815 Info: To start, getting the parking permit for Spanish creek was extremely easy. Seems like you get an automatic email when you apply online, fyi for last minute planners. Spanish creek approach isnt terrible. I counted 89 downed trees in anticipation of a tedious approach, but theyre spaced out, really not a bad hike in. The snow isnt deep until higher up, generally supportive with snowshoes, and there mostly was a trench in place - thank you to those who came before! Snow in the couloir was nice and firm. It was pretty straightforward getting over to the summit (with crampons and ice axe), just a few steep hard snow crossings that got my attention. Fun route. |
