| Peak: | North Maroon Peak |
| Route: | Northeast Ridge |
| Range: | Elk |
| Posted By: | crazymarmot |
| Date of Info: | 9/28/2016 |
| Date Posted: | 9/29/2016 |
| Details |
|---|
|
"Technical" season has started. Below 13k was plenty of mud which made it for a slippery climb. Above 13k snow/ice started. Snow consistency was sugar with depth anywhere from 3" to mid-calf deep. Due to consistency and depth, crampons are little help since you sink right to the ground, while without them it is very slippery. Ice axes were really nice. Punk rock band crux: Technical - All the holds are covered in ice/snow. Downclimbing is nearly impossible at this time, and due to it's shady location I do not see a possibility of the ice leaving till next spring. Rope is a must for most (unless you can downclimb using tools - not recommended), and highly suggesting to pitch out this section on the way up. I did climb it without a rope with a spotter, I would have been a lot more comfortable pitching this out. New sling is placed on top of this section. Please remember to inspect it for integrity and animal/weather/abrasion damage. BONUS: Downclimbed a good section (about 400-500 vert) of the ridge between the summit and "Gunsight". Snow amount was negligible, easy to avoid. Can not report on the rest of the route, but my gut feeling tells me there probably isn't much snow/ice on this ridge. Not sure on the full beta of the route, make sure you can climb up/down to Gunsight. Good luck! |
| Comments or Questions |
|---|
|
|
