Peak:  El Diente Peak (Unranked 14er)
 Route:  South Slopes
 Range:  San Juan
 Posted By:  dmccool
 Date of Info:  07/20/2011
 Date Posted:  07/22/2011

We summitted El Diente from Kilpacker on Wednesday, 7/20. The approach is dry. Above the waterfall, there are a few snow fields, but nothing too difficult to cross. Definitely bring an ice ax for the upper route - even micro spikes/crampons wouldn't be a bad idea. Also, the route is very loose.

We summitted both Wilson Peak and Mt. Wilson from Navajo Lake on Thursday, 7/21. The trail to the upper basin crosses a couple snowfields, but at a very low angle.

Wilson Peak is dry. I can't recall crossing any snow from the Rock of Ages Saddle to the summit.

Mt. Wilson has many snow fields - some are very steep. When looking at the standard route, you see that you cross at least 3 snow gullies. All 3 have snow still, but you might be able to avoid the first 2 by either crossing below it or taking small rock bands between the snow. The snow gullies you encounter as you angle up high toward the notch (climber's right of the summit) cannot be avoided and make for a pretty steep snow climb - 40+ degrees I would say. An ice ax is a must and micro spikes/crampons would provide much needed safety up high.

I cannot post pictures as I am still living out of my truck.

 Comments or Questions

Congratulations on Climbing the Wilsons!
07/22/2011 22:02
Any suggestions where to camp on Kilpacker for the south approach to El Diente? How much snow is on top?


Kilpacker camping
07/24/2011 00:22
We did Mt. Wilson from Kilpacker and I would recommend just car camping at the trailhead. Any camping would be 2 miles in, which are FLAT, so could easily be done with headlamps. No point packing in for such a negligible head start. Just my .02, but getting ready at the car on summit day has always been a bit easier for me. BRING BUGSPRAY from the TH to treeline!

Mountain Woman

my 2 cents
07/27/2011 02:31
Bugspray, bugspray, bugspray!! Yes, I second that. I don't know what the Kilpacker approach was really like, but looking down on it, it looked like mostly scree - just an fyi.

Mountain Woman

07/27/2011 15:14
I said scree but I mean talus


08/01/2011 02:59
Should have checked this report before asking on the other (north route) Diente thread. Thanks for the update, planning it this weekend, if the weather's good!

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