Peak:  Little Bear Peak (14er)
 Route:  West Ridge and Southwest Face
 Range:  Sangre de Cristo
 Posted By:  Rcizzle
 Date of Info:  07/17/2011
 Date Posted:  07/18/2011

Successful climb up LBP yesterday. The standard route is completely snow free, however, the hourglass had a running trickle of water on both sides of the gully. It wasn't really avoidable and gave my partner and I fits climbing up the steep rock. There are two ropes in the glass, One blue rope has some knicks and cuts while a lighter green rope was more sturdy, but was not as long. I also noticed several individuals (around 9) made it to the summit, but no more than 3 (including myself) used the standard route. Ask away if you have questions.

 Comments or Questions

07/19/2011 19:44
We climbed it 2 days prior (7/15) and had the same conditions which made for some tricky climbing on wet rock. We brought a rope and rapped the wet portion on the way down. Those fixed ropes are in horrible shape.


07/19/2011 17:44
i was probably that third person. that hourglass was no picnic!


07/22/2011 00:12
Friends and I planning to climb LB on Saturday. (7-23) First person going up is going to bring his own ropes to help us (girls) up. Will this help at all over the wet areas. I was also told to climb in the middle of the hourglass. Is this not recommended? We do plan to repel down.


My observation
07/22/2011 18:49
I would recommend a rope especially while the gully is wet. I don't think it would be much help on your acsent, but tying up to the solid rope anchor on the way down is your best bet. I would bring a towel to wipe your feet on for the grip. Also the middle of the gully has less cover and is more exposed to rock fall which is a huge issue. The mid is less steep but more slick with smaller holds. It was easier to decsend the middle.

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