Peak:  Mt. Sneffels (14er)
 Route:  From Yankee Boy Basin
 Range:  San Juan
 Posted By:  Matt Lemke
 Date of Info:  06/12/2011
 Date Posted:  06/19/2011

Climbed up Sneffels via Yankee Boy Basin last Sunday. TR to come but will be awhile. I'll be making one BIG one for my whole summer climbing in Colorado in mid July.

Anyway, I was able to drive up to about 10,000 feet in my little Toyota Camry and lucked out and managed to get a ride up to the roads end with my bike rather than walking the road with my bike. She was headed up to meet a client to guide them up Sneffels.

Started hiking around 6:00 am at 11,400 feet elevation and the route was continuous snow all the way to the summit.

Definently needed crampons for the Lavender coulier early in the morning however I felt so good I got up to the base of the coulier at 12,700 feet up the valley in an hour and summitted an hour after that around 8 am. I passed a couple people on the way. Sunrise was stunning with the alpenglow on the snow. Was an exciting class 3 move around the rock face to make the final 50 or so foot climb. Had the summit to myself for about 20 minutes before the wind drove me down. Couldn't glissade since it was still very early but that was fine.

Got back to my bike around 10 am and the whole lot at the end of the road was filled with jeeps. Even met a few people who did Teakettle that morning back at the TH.
Biked down the road a ways to my car and was on my way to Silverton as I was camping at Molas Lake all last week.

This was one of my most successful climbs as I used crampons for the first time and did a full on snow climb with a slightly exposed class 3 move completely solo. I also climbed nearly 3000 feet in a couple hours. It was a big leap in my mountaineering comfort zone.

Starting this Friday I will be gaining at least 1 summit for 20 straight days...can't wait!

Keep an eye out for my big TR to come in mid July that will describe my June/July adventures in Colorado. Should have tons of photos as well. Hoping for 30 summits and lots of backpacking.

BTW, last Saturday I also did Challenger Point with no snow.

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