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 Peak:  "West Wilson" (Unranked)
 Route:  Kilpacker Approach/South Face
 Range:  San Juan
 Posted By:  jfm3
 Date of Info:  5/26/2024
 Date Posted:  5/28/2024

I attempted South Wilson from Kilpacker and got a great look at the south side of the Mt. Wilson-El Diente Traverse. Snow starts just above the last stand of trees in Kilpacker Basin and is continuous all the way up to the ridges of the 14ers/13ers. It looks possible to climb to the ridge just east of West Wilson. From there, it could be possible to go up and tag the top without doing the entire traverse. Head toward the southwest route of Mt. Wilson and then peel off to go up the snow toward the saddle between West Wilson and the final part of the Traverse. Snow was in great condition for crampon and ice axe use. There are some old avalanche paths on both sides of Kilpacker Basin with frozen debris at the bottom. CAIC says there haven't been any reported avalanches in the San Juans for a few weeks so the consolidation is well underway. Some intermittent waterfalls are frozen on the cliffs and I did hear occasional rockfall.

#1) South side of West Wilson#2) West Wilson viewed from Unnamed 13,766'#3

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