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 Peak:  Capitol Peak
 Route:  Northeast Ridge
 Range:  Elk
 Posted By:  cwccardella
 Date of Info:  10/7/2023
 Date Posted:  10/8/2023
Details

I made my second summit of Captiol Peak yesterday (10/7). My partner and I were expecting snow, but there was more than we anticipated. The snow started about a 1/2 mile before the lake and continued up to the Daly saddle in sporadic sections. The Daly saddle and basin is filled with snow, on average mid-calf deep, to even knee deep in certain sections. The north side of K2 is also snowed in, and an ice axe and crampons are highly recommended. We broke trail on the ridge, all the way to the peak, and the snow becomes more sporadic after the knife edge. There are plenty of steep snow sections on the route, with lots of mixed climbing. Downclimbing from the summit back to K2 is where the crampons were necessary, due to the softness of the snow, especially on the steep exposed sections. Capitol is no longer in summer conditions, and from this point on I would expect late spring, to winter-like conditions. I wouldn't recommend trying for the summit without Crampons, an ice axe, gaiters, and experience of how to use them in mixed conditions.


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